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Shockproof Heavy


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Guest Nigelstephens
Posted

Having used standard EP80/90 oil with moly in my box and bevel since I got the Sport, I am amazed at the difference that Shockproof Heavy makes.

 

Here is my list differences after a mornings ride.

 

1. Costs £36 for two quarts.

2. You dont have to change it (it is said)

3. It is easier to find neutral

4. Between first and second the dogs do not crunch (Not at all in 2hours of riding including town)

5. Silky smoothnes is very apparent

6. The is no difference between hot and cold. Previously the difference was massive.

7. Noise seems reduced.

8. Gear changing is easier and smoother.

9. Less of a crunch when engaging 1st to pull away.

 

Now I feel stupid for not trying it earlier. I wonder If I could take it myself my stiff back!

 

For the complete picture, I did reshim the box a few weeks ago. This made a small difference for my change between 1st and 2nd. However there was only only a small adjustment possible/necessary.

Posted

I also have 2 quarts waiting to replace my existing gear oil. :food: Trouble is the riding keeps getting better (even with the Daytona transmission leak) :grin:

Posted

This definitely sounds a good move.........

 

One query though...............

 

Is it a good idea for low mileage transmissions / bevel boxes?

 

Should they be run in (broken in) first?

 

If so what mileage would be appropriate?

 

Nige. :unsure:

Guest ratchethack
Posted

Nige, in trans and bevel box I don't think it matters in the slightest WRT mileage. But that's just me. I went from dino to "conventional" synthetic at 10K mi. and from there to RLSH at about 16K mi. with nothing but improvement at each transition, and now I've got 31K mi. and everything's happy as a clam. -_-

 

Had similar experiences with each of 2 different car transmissions going from dino to Redline MTL without any problems of any kind.

 

Engine oil for break-in vs. after is a different kettle o' fish, and a topic for another discussion.

 

Differences between additives in different lubes that condition and slightly swell seals (dino vs. synthetic, but also dino vs. dino & synth vs. synth in some cases) have occasionally resulted in seeping/weeping when transitioning from one to the other in certain circumstances, but it's never happened to me, and IMHO this is not much of a concern. It is, after all, a change that is reversible in the event of an unacceptable amount of seep/weep as a result.

 

All the usual disclaimers apply. Wotever happens, it ain't my fault. Have your counselor call my counselor -- errr, sorry. How American of me. Have your solicitor call my solicitor. :grin:

Posted

anyone add moly to the Redline shockproof?

 

Not needed.

Posted

Don't bank on piont two its lasts slightly longer than mineral but certianly nowhere near whats claimed. I found the difference mainly from going from old to new oil rather than any magical properties reline shock proof has. This however is in a 1100 sport not a V11 others experinces may differ I'm back to mineral changing every 5000 kms.

Guest Nigelstephens
Posted

I don't think I will keep to the point 2. I know I wrote it but it just does seem kind, especially when there can be the odd bit of metal swimming in the oil. It is good to monitor for bearing or gear degredation to catch any problems earlier than later.

 

I intend replacing RSPHeavy one a year.

Posted

I put the light in my bevel a couple of months ago...have a qt of heavy to change it out now that hot weather is moving in, and have a qt of light to change out gearbox, which currently has the 75/90MT. Looks like the ticket to me...now if I can find my local Amsoil salesman for 20x50, I'll be in business. :luigi: k

Posted

Any reason you folks see to not use the RLSH for both the trans and bevel box year round? I live in a fairly hot part of California and was planning on running the the heavy in the trans and bevel/carc in my Lemans and Griso.

Thanks for any feedback

Jon

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