More LED ?

[Guest Nogbad]

guys....nothin but love for your enthusiasm....but I somehow think that posts like these are not helping solve Bird Dawg's issue.

 

Maybe we should start a "rant" thread given all the recent forum squabbles

 

Bird's issue is solved, and I was only trying to help him. I didn't ask for the rant, but I don't see why I should roll over and play dead given the history........

[dlaing]

Typical of your impossible attitude.

Remulacian logic. I can see why you frustrate so many on here.

 

Please don't be personally insulting.

 

 

Would you like to tell me how a snap action switch as typified by a thermomechanical flasher can possibly ever create a gradually rising voltage to the bulb.

How would you like it if I said the following?

Typical of your rhetorical technique to insinuate that I said something that I did not.

Head up the ass logic.

I never said a snap action switch can create a gradually rising voltage to the bulb. I said that there is a delay in the signal lighting when using a using a thermomechanical flasher rather than an electronic flasher.

I don't know what causes the noticeable delay, I just know that there is a delay. And electronic relays that I have used in the past did not have the noticeable delay.

 

The only circumstances I can think of that could make a switch work the way you say, is if it is covered in some semi conductive gunk that the contact spring has to force out of the way as it makes. So, maybe you just have a really really shit filled flasher relay.

Finally a good point! Maybe that is why my flasher relay has a delay.

For what it is worth, atleast one other person on this forum complained about the delay.

[Guest Nigelstephens]

I too do not like the delay on mine. Switch indicators on and wait to make sure there flashing. Could be better. I have installed LED flashers all round including ballast resistors. The LEDS seem bright within a very narrow angle. I wish I had stuck wit ordinary bulbs! If it wasnt for the money £60, I would go back tomorrow to bulbs.

[dlaing]

Has anyone tried the "Clear Alternatives" LED board?

http://clearalternatives.com/Merchant2/mer...tegory_Code=LED

I am pretty sure the Buell/Monster one fits our bike.

But my big concern would be how bright it is, especially from the side.

As Nigel mentioned, LEDs often have a narrow range of visibility.

On my way home from work tonight, my brake light went out on me.

LEDs tend to last a lot longer, but unless they add enough very bright wide angle LEDs, it won't be bright enough.

[Guest Nogbad]

Ah, I misunderstood what you meant by the delay Dave. I think what you mean is that this particular design of flasher starts in the break position, and when switched on there is the delay as the thermal unit heats before the relay contact operating the bulbs makes for the first time. This is usually about half the "off" portion of the normal cycle, and as you say, you could time it so please accept my apology for misunderstanding you.

 

Some units have the heater element in series with the contacts, these start made and the bulb comes on immediately you operate the flasher switch. Others have the heater in parallel with the broken contact, when the flasher switch is made, the heater heats, springs the contact over lighting the bulb which shorts out the heater which then cools until the contact springs open. The V11 must have this last type.

 

Communication error.

 

[dlaing]

Ah, I misunderstood what you meant by the delay Dave. I think what you mean is that this particular design of flasher starts in the break position, and when switched on there is the delay as the thermal unit heats before the relay contact operating the bulbs makes for the first time. This is usually about half the "off" portion of the normal cycle, and as you say, you could time it so please accept my apology for misunderstanding you.

 

Some units have the heater element in series with the contacts, these start made and the bulb comes on immediately you operate the flasher switch. Others have the heater in parallel with the broken contact, when the flasher switch is made, the heater heats, springs the contact over lighting the bulb which shorts out the heater which then cools until the contact springs open. The V11 must have this last type.

 

Communication error.

 

Thanks I did not know there were two kinds of electrothermomechanicalpointstypeflashers.

I guess I need the second kind or an electronic one.

[Guest Nogbad]

Thanks I did not know there were two kinds of electrothermomechanicalpointstypeflashers.

I guess I need the second kind or an electronic one.

 

You could invert the action using an interposing relay. Wire one ballast resistor from the flasher output to earth, and in parallel with this put the coil of an SPCO relay. Then link from the input of the old flasher to the COM terminal of the relay and link the flasher circuits to the NC contact of the relay.

 

The action of the flasher is now inverted, and the bulbs will light instantly the switch is operated. When the existing flasher makes, the relay coil will activate, breaking the circuit to the bulbs and so on.

 

This should work fine with LEDs as well although the idiot light will need rewiring.

[Greg Field]

Dave:

 

I have a CA rear light. I judge it to be bright enough from all angles that matter.

[dlaing]

Thanks Gents!

Nog, I'll have to re-read yours a couple times more to grasp.

...running late to work, right now.