Sloppage sheet drillings alignment

[John in Leeds]

Have just installed the sloppage sheet as per instructions I thought. Placed the gaskets on the plate with a little water pump grease to ensure correct seating offered it up, added some periferal bolts loosely then offered up the valve block and found that the 4 fixing bolts would not align correctly. Took it all off and removed about 1.5mm from the side of the 4 holes in the sloppage sheet, cleaned it all off and then fitted again. All good.

 

I was wondering if this is usual, is there some slight variance in the drilling of the valve block fitting? If so it may be good advice to offer up the plate before fitting the gaskets to ensure correct alignment.

 

Anyway no leaks and no stripped threads, so cheers Pete

[pete roper]

I've never had a problem with this but somebody else (?) Pat Hayes maybe (?) emailed me saying they'd had a problem with the four holes that the oil filter/thermostat mount go through. The plates themselves are lazer cut, perhaps this causes some slight discrepancy? Perhaps the discrepancy is in the block? Anywaythe holes can be opened up slightly with a drill if required or if anyone feels that it is a big problem please return it to me and I'll either refund the money or send another one that I'll modify as required.

 

Pete

[Guest ratchethack]

Have just installed the sloppage sheet as per instructions I thought. Placed the gaskets on the plate with a little water pump grease to ensure correct seating offered it up, added some periferal bolts loosely then offered up the valve block and found that the 4 fixing bolts would not align correctly. Took it all off and removed about 1.5mm from the side of the 4 holes in the sloppage sheet, cleaned it all off and then fitted again. All good.

 

I was wondering if this is usual, is there some slight variance in the drilling of the valve block fitting? If so it may be good advice to offer up the plate before fitting the gaskets to ensure correct alignment.

 

Anyway no leaks and no stripped threads, so cheers Pete

Had the same experience with mine, John. Same solution. But we did an '04 LM at the same time, and didn't have the same problem. It was minor, and no one else mentioned it, so I didn't either.

[John in Leeds]

Thanks gentlemen,

 

Clearly the sheets match the periferal holes perfectly, I thought there may be some discrepancy in certain models, mine is manufactured 03. Was yours Ratchet? No problem for me Pete the sheet gives me some confidence when the oil level drops and I'm afraid my wheelies are involuntary and usually very short.

 

[Guest ratchethack]

Thanks gentlemen,

 

Clearly the sheets match the periferal holes perfectly, I thought there may be some discrepancy in certain models, mine is manufactured 03. Was yours Ratchet? No problem for me Pete the sheet gives me some confidence when the oil level drops and I'm afraid my wheelies are involuntary and usually very short.

 

John, mine's a 2000 Sport. Had exactly the same circumstances. The peripheral holes lined up perfectly, but the 4 holes for the oil pressure relief assembly wouldn't quite. Took them next oversize on the drill press and Robert's y'er Mum's favorite brother. 'Twere a trifle, really, hardly worth mentioning.

 

As mentioned previously, I'm nearly completely convinced now after having her out for a stretch o' the tacho in the mountains a few times that she spins up easier past 5-6K due to relief from the crank dragging its formerly great walloping burden o' crank throw damping windage.

 

Still hoping to see a before n' after Roper plate dyno pull (all things else the same, of course).

[dlaing]

Still hoping to see a before n' after Roper plate dyno pull (all things else the same, of course).

Since you run the oil level well above factory recommended, I suppose it may show a minute improvement.

But run it between the high and low marks with dipstick in and I am sure you will get more power, but there will be no measurable difference between plate and no plate.

But of course you should not do that off the dyno as it may suck air when accellerating up hill.

[profWacko]

Had the same experience with mine, John. Same solution. But we did an '04 LM at the same time, and didn't have the same problem. It was minor, and no one else mentioned it, so I didn't either.

 

The one I installed on my 05 Le Mans was a perfect fit.

 

-Jack

[Guest ratchethack]

Dave, you sound very sure of yourself in making a declarative statement rather than suggesting a possible outcome, (based on wot, I can't tell?) I mean no disrespect -- just need clarification posibly?? -- wot do you mean by:

. . .I am sure you will get more power, but there will be no measurable difference between plate and no plate. . .

Are you saying that "more power" will be achieved with the plate, but so infinitesimally small on the dyno at stock (dipstick) oil level that it would not be measurable, yet above stock high mark "more power" WOULD be measurable on the dyno?

But of course you should not do that off the dyno as it may suck air when accellerating up hill.

I'm lost.

 

Pourquoi?

 

EM (enquiring minds) JG K (just gotta know).

[badmotogoozer]

Just installed mine last weekend. My experience:

 

Started with the outside bolts, got a couple in loosely - same experience, trouble with the centre four.

 

Realized the center 4 were the important ones, started with them. All four in loosely (about 1cm from tight) Went to the outside bolts and with a wee bit of wiggling got one in each side loosely. Then all the rest went in easy peasy. No grinding.

 

'01 Sport.

 

Rj

[Skeeve]

 

Are you saying that "more power" will be achieved with the plate, but so infinitesimally small on the dyno at stock (dipstick) oil level that it would not be measurable, yet above stock high mark "more power" WOULD be measurable on the dyno?

 

I'm lost.

 

I read it as: "you'll make more power w/ the plate if running the oil high enough to be safe, due to decreased windage, but this higher power output would have to be charted on a dyno, since it's too small to be noticeable to the normal rider, and you could achieve the same output in a motor w/o the plate by running the oil level between the high & low oil marks on the dipstick provided from the factory, but this would be unsafe since you're likely to get the transient exposed pickup problem which leads to Roper's dreaded "dagga dagga noise," which is why he designed the plates in the first place..."

 

You need to slow down & enjoy life a little there, Ratch'; it make sense once you reread two or three times [at least, it did for me...]

[Guest ratchethack]

I read it as: "you'll make more power w/ the plate if running the oil high enough to be safe, due to decreased windage, but this higher power output would have to be charted on a dyno, since it's too small to be noticeable to the normal rider, and you could achieve the same output in a motor w/o the plate by running the oil level between the high & low oil marks on the dipstick provided from the factory, but this would be unsafe since you're likely to get the transient exposed pickup problem which leads to Roper's dreaded "dagga dagga noise," which is why he designed the plates in the first place..."

 

You need to slow down & enjoy life a little there, Ratch'; it make sense once you reread two or three times [at least, it did for me...]

Thanks, Skeeve. I was pretty sure I was gonna hafta disagree, but I couldn't without considerable help with translation. Now to the extent I do understand, I most certainly disagree.

[BrianG]

Thanks, Skeeve. I was pretty sure I was gonna hafta disagree, but I couldn't without considerable help with translation. Now to the extent I do understand, I most certainly disagree.

 

Ratchet..... at what oil level ARE you running the donk?

[dlaing]

Since you run the oil level well above factory recommended, I suppose it may show a minute improvement.

But run it between the high and low marks with dipstick in and I am sure you will get more power, but there will be no measurable difference between plate and no plate.

But of course you should not do that off the dyno as it may suck air when accellerating up hill.

I guess I need to explain...Skeeve was very close to understanding my points.

If you are going to run the oil high, it makes sense that a windage sheet would help because the oil is closer to the crank and closer to causing drag from the torrent of oil. At lower levels this is less of a problem, so there would be less benefit to gaining POWER.

But run it at a LOOOooooowww level, between the high and the low of the dipstick(only safe on a dyno or flat road, rubberside down) and you will get MORE power, not the same power as Skeeve translated, because of the greater air volume creates less resistance for the reciprocating piston. It is a generally recognized FACT that engines make more power at lower oil levels (up to a point, probably the point just before the point oil starvation...)

Another point is that the sheet does increase the air volume if you keep the oil at the same level above the pan, and so more power,(probably not measurable) would be gained. But if you keep the oil level the same relative to the dipstick, the only gain is from reduced friction from less torrent, which is hard to imagine being measurable....but stranger things have happened

To trust dyno test of such results, I would have to see an unbiased operator test without sheet, then with sheet, then without sheet, then with sheet....with oil heated to same temp each time.

[Guest ratchethack]

Ratchet..... at what oil level ARE you running the donk?

I've taken to running it in the formerly dubious area just below where I once noticed that the inside o' my airbox looked like wot my sinuses feel like when I've got one of those "nose running like a faucet" head colds -- I'm talking about substantial post-nasal drip drainage -- that is, just over the full mark on the dipstick. Now there's no trace o' messy congestion wotsoever.