Fuel Filter Install

[dlaing]

1)GO SHOPPING!

 

A. FUEL FILTER

Recommended:

Purolator F67221, Wix part 33310, Fram G4777, and Napa Gold 3310, which cross reference Honda Passports, Isuzu Rodeos, and Isuzu Troopers after 1992.

Height 5.565"

OD 2.175"

inlet and outlet are 5/16" (8mm).

Alternatives are the Purolator F43178, WIX 33023, Fram G-7404, and Napa Gold 3023,

Which all cross reference the more recent years of the Nissan Pathfinder:

Height 4.803

OD 2.205

inlet and outlet are 5/16"(8mm)

 

B. FUEL INJECTION LINE (optional but recommended)

About 6' (2 Meters) 5/16" (8mm) High Quality Fuel injection line.

You should have plenty left over.

A small length of the larger diameter hose going from the tank to the pump.

I am not sure what size it is....

 

C. FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS (optional but recommended)

Ask for ones that are less likely to damage the hose.

 

 

2.REMOVE THE FUEL TANK

Do yourself a favor and run the tank close to empty before trying to lift the tank off.

Also, wear eye protection to protect from splashing gasoline as the hoses are removed.

There may still be pressurized fuel in the hoses.

 

A. Remove Seat

 

B. Remove Bolt holding down tank.

 

C.Prop the tank up a few inches to hold the tank in a position that will allow better access to the hose clamps.

 

D. Disconnect two lines on the right side of the bike. Look for the hose clamps. One line is a vent line and the other goes from the pressure regulator to the right fuel injector. Some may have removed the vent line. (NOT recommended) There may also be a second smaller vent line that will pop off on it own.

 

E. Disconnect the fuel line going from the petcock to the fuel pump,

the wire connector for the wires going to the petcock (if you have the electric type),

and the wire connector for the wires going to the fuel level warning sensor.

Keep in mind that the petcock may not seal properly an may leak when the hose is removed.

 

F. Remove the tank.

Nothing should have to be forced.

Lift the rear a few inches, grab the front and carry the tank an inch or two to the rear and then lift the front of the tank up and bring the tank forward and up and off.

 

G. Set down where it will not get damaged.

 

3. REMOVE THE FUEL FILTER

 

4. REPLACE THE FUEL LINES AND HOSE CLAMPS(optional but recommended)

A. The line going from the pump to the filter is the most critical as it endures the highest pressures.

The other lines are less accessible and require removing the airbox.

B. Remove the airbox. It is held by one screw on the top, two down low towards the rear, and it must be disconnected from the throttle bodies.

Reinstall the airbox, connect the throttle bodies first, rear screws, and finally the top screw.

C. routing of the hoses is critical.

 

5. INSTALL THE NEW FILTER

Be sure to get the arrow pointed in the correct direction of flow, from the fuel pump, through the filter, and to the fuel injectors.

Non-OEM filters have a smaller OD (outer diameter), so shimming with duct tape or something is recommended.

 

6. Put the tank back on, lower rear first, but not all the way, than lower front onto rubber mounts, then lower rear all the way and make sure nothing got crushed.

Raise the rear of tank enough to get access to the hoses and prop it up.

 

7. Re-connect two wire connectors on left and the fuel line from the petcock to the pump.

 

8. Reconnect two lines on right.

Be sure to put the vent lines together and the high pressure lines together.

The high pressure line on the right runs from the right fuel injector to the pressure control valve on the right side of the tank.

 

9. Double check that fuel lines are tight and then start up the engine and look for leaks.

You may want to prime the pump by turning the key on and off maybe three times before pressing the starter. Holding the starter down for too long is a bad idea.

give the starter a few seconds between each start attempt.

Check for leaks, go for a short ride, check for leaks, go for a long ride but don't forget to buy fresh gasoline.

[twhitaker]

The NAPA 3008 filter has the threaded ends to fit existing hose ends. Its outside diameter is several MM smaller in diameter. I just wrapped electrical tape around to get it to fit the clamp.

[dlaing]

twhitaker,

Your bike come with threaded hose ends????

What year and model is it?

I have a 2000 US model V11S.

Thanks for the post!

If anyone sees any other errors, or model to model oddities, please post.

[docc]

David,

Thanks for getting this posted! Those who followed the previous threads remember this filter came out of a good bit of research and the cooperation of pureoil Co. who makes the Purolator.

Guys, just take a look at this filter and you'll agree: the laser welded stainless is very robust and appropriate for the vibration level on the spine frame. ( What, you LIKE all that vibration? )

The FI clamps really are a good upgrade as the usual perforated worm gear crap does cut into the fuel line over time. ( Again, read "vibration")

Look well ahead! docc

[twhitaker]

Oops. After taking another look at my '02 LeMans I found out it indeed has hose clamps as you mentioned. It's my '96 California that takes the 3008 with the banjo fitting.

[dlaing]

Additional note:

If you are going to replace the line that runs from the Petcock to the fuel pump, it is a 12mm fuel hose.

My OE steel braided 12mm hose was still in pretty good shape after three and a half years and a few tank removals, but with all the clamping and unclamping, I thought it was best to replace it.

No steel braiding this time...

 

Also note:

the Nissan pathfinder filter fits in the clamp better than the Isuzu.

but the Isuzu filter is larger, so it may last longer???

So, go with what is important to you.