occasional sticking in gear

[JoeV11]

Hi all

I tried searching for over an hour and can't find anything that matches my problem. I have only ridden the bike a couple of times this year and twice yesterday I got stuck in second gear (upshifting). I pull the clutch in and pull hard against the shifter and nothing changes. Do it again and it's into third just fine. After that episode, I'll have no problems for a while, then it'll do it again. When it isn't stuck, it shifts fine. The bike just turned 1000 miles last night, and it had the initial service done 150 miles ago.

I'll look at the linkage for a loose screw or something tonight, but I hope the problem is not deeper in the tranny.

If anybody has any advice, I'm listening.

Thanks

Joe

[Tom M]

Crouch right down there and shift it up & down by hand while watching to see if anything is binding or interfering. You probably just need to lube the shift linkage.

[Guest ratchethack]

Joe, the following may or may not be the cause, but in accordance with the "check the easiest/simplest things first" rule, I'd look very carefully at the operation of the shift linkage.

 

Both myself and my riding Pal with a '04 LM have had much the same experience here and the same solution achieved the same kind of results:

 

The dog-legged shift arm that's splined onto the shift shaft coming out of the trans (located behind and below the starter) has a bolt with a "self-locking" nut on it on its outboard end that can loosen up very gradually over time.

 

The "fix" is to secure the nut with threadlocker. To do a more complete job, I'd recommend removing the starter -- PLEASE disconnect the battery first! -- and similarly threadlock the pinch bolt on the dog-legged shift arm, being careful to mark the shaft and shift arm so you can be sure to get it back with the splines indexed as before.

 

Having the starter out would be the PERFECT time to perpetrate wot many no doubt consider "anal" behavior here by removing the shift lever shaft and properly greasing it (they come dry from Mandello ), followed by adjustment of the shift lever shaft end float. In the case of my Pal's linkage, he found all of this to be a surprisingly worthwhile and TRANSFORMING experience WRT providing new shifting ease and precision. Mine wasn't half as loose as his, but it made a huge improvement also.

[Dan M]

Hi all

I tried searching for over an hour and can't find anything that matches my problem. I have only ridden the bike a couple of times this year and twice yesterday I got stuck in second gear (upshifting). I pull the clutch in and pull hard against the shifter and nothing changes. Do it again and it's into third just fine. After that episode, I'll have no problems for a while, then it'll do it again. When it isn't stuck, it shifts fine. The bike just turned 1000 miles last night, and it had the initial service done 150 miles ago.

I'll look at the linkage for a loose screw or something tonight, but I hope the problem is not deeper in the tranny.

If anybody has any advice, I'm listening.

Thanks

Joe

 

Joe, as others have said the shift linkage is likely the culprit being either loose or dirty. If cleaning, lubing, adjusting does not help then the arm inside the trans cover may not be returning to center after shifting into second. You can tell if this is happening because the shifter will feel like it is not "pulling" into the next gear. Almost feels like it is not connected to anything when it acts up. If this is the case the cure is as easy as removing the cover, cleaning out all of the black paste that has accumulated in the old fluid and changing to Redline Shockproof.

[belfastguzzi]

This has been a mysterious problem for others, while some have been able to see a cause.

I had a severe attack of this problem last summer when on a trip. Bike would stick in second and just would not shift up. Solid refusal. Couldn't see anything wrong (linkage is threadlocked, greased, adjusted etc). I really couldn't believe that it was a spring problem but I opened the box at the roadside to inspect, 'cause I couldn't think of anything else. Nothing wrong with springs, no sludge in box etc...

 

The only unusual thing in the lead-up to this problem was that the engine / box had got pretty hot as I was driving through a solid traffic jam for ages, so was slow, in low gear and with no cooling airflow. (Unusually a number of music festivals were happening on the same weekend in the South, so that circumstance, combined with holiday traffic, had clogged the Belfast - Dublin road.)

 

Once stopped, I could evenually get going, but after a while it would stick in second again. Torture and on occassions, dangerous. When I eventually got to the other end of Ireland, very late, the bike operated ok when back to more normal usage, but on the long journey home the problem reoccured.

 

Others have said that this gearbox doesn't work well when it gets hot. I don't know. It's the only explanation so far.

 

Just as an unlikely cause – (as well as checking the linkage itself) check that it's clearing the Jubilee clips / hose clamps that hold the starter motor in place. The adjusting screw of the rearward clip is close to the linkage and depending upon the position where the adjuster has been left, it could possibly create an obstruction when shifting. It's a very long shot.

[Guzzirider]

Joe, the following may or may not be the cause, but in accordance with the "check the easiest/simplest things first" rule, I'd look very carefully at the operation of the shift linkage.

 

Both myself and my riding Pal with a '04 LM have had much the same experience here and the same solution achieved the same kind of results:

 

The dog-legged shift arm that's splined onto the shift shaft coming out of the trans (located behind and below the starter) has a bolt facing inboard with a "self-locking" nut on it on its outboard end that can loosen up very gradually over time.

 

The "fix" is to secure the nut with threadlocker. To do a more complete job, I'd recommend removing the starter -- PLEASE disconnect the battery first! -- and similarly threadlock the pinch bolt on the dog-legged shift arm, being careful to mark the shaft and shift arm so you can be sure to get it back with the splines indexed as before.

 

Having the starter out would be the PERFECT time to perpetrate wot many no doubt consider "anal" behavior here by removing the shift lever shaft and properly greasing it (they come dry from Mandello <_ followed by adjustment of the shift shaft end float. in case my pal linkage he found all this to be a surprisingly worthwhile and transforming experience wrt providing new shifting ease precision. src="%7B___base_url___%7D/uploads/emoticons/default_duim.gif" alt=":thumbsup:">

 

 

I have had exactly the same issue as Ratch.

[Bruce Reader]

G'day everyone,

 

Just discovered something interesting that may answer some of the issues with the old tranny spring breakage and downshifting issues.

 

I have the pre selector plate off at the moment to check boss size etc (15mm-no worries) but i have had issues with downshifting at times regardless of adjustment etc.

 

With the two cogs removed while moving the selector arm (sorry if terms ar incorrect) i noticed that in the upshift movement nil resistance (other than the springs) but 3/4 through the down shift movement a resistance (notch).

 

The pawl arm spring end (where it breaks) was interfering with the return spring as it passed over the top. This could explain why some 15 mm bossed bikes break springs as the end tab is catching on the other spring underneath it (it has a nice bright wear mark on it).

 

This momentary increased resistance could also cause the false neutral between gears as it may increase the likelyhood of the locating cam on the other cog to stop half way through its movement.

 

i found you can fix this by either flipping the spring underneath 180 degrees or make sure the pawl arm spring tab does not protrude beyong the thickness of the pawl arm.

 

Regards

 

Bruce