Removing engine from front

[Baldini]

Finally got round to looking into Scura clutch. Going to remove engine from front.

 

Do I remove front subframe entirely from motor & spine? or can I leave it on spine (& save disturbing electrics) & get motor past by dropping it or lifting frame clear?

 

Crankshaft phase sensor: I removed 2 x screws, it's tight on - is it just the sensor body is tight fit in it's housing? sealant/gasket cement? do you just pry it off?

 

Thanks.

 

KB

[Paul Minnaert]

Well, why remove phase sensor, it does have a connector in it's wire.

 

for the front, do whats most easy, There are only alternator wires that have a connector in them somewhere. If you keep the front frame with the engine, you can leave the oil lines/cooler on, so you don't need to take the oil out. Or disconnect the olilines at the radiator, not much oil will go then. the engine goes out, without with bike on it's wheels. When you split it from the gearbox first.

 

Then move the engine 8 cm up front, with something under it to keep it at the same height.

Then the engine can be taken sideways, I have a thing with wheels on it so I can move it easy. See some pictures here:

 

http://www.fastguzzi.nl/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=101

 

As I see in my pictures, I took the alternator of the engine, so all wires stay in place. It's pretty simple, not much work. The gearbox can stay in there, no need to take it out.

[Baldini]

Paul, Thanks for the post.

 

I am still unclear from your photos...it appears that subframe is unbolted from both spine & engine, but left attached to spine by wiring when motor is removed?

 

Note you remove alternator - was that just to give clearance at front wheel? (I already removed front end).

 

Thanks again for your reply. KB

[Paul Minnaert]

Paul, Thanks for the post.

 

I am still unclear from your photos...it appears that subframe is unbolted from both spine & engine, but left attached to spine by wiring when motor is removed?

Well I'm lazy, so I left if hanging there, no need to unplug wires. And there is place enough to remove the engine like that.

 

 

Note you remove alternator - was that just to give clearance at front wheel? (I already removed front end).

 

Thanks again for your reply. KB

 

Well I only removed the alternator because I got a new engine from factory, the part on the crank was left on the engine. If you removed front wheel, you have plenty of space.

 

We got an engine of a sport 1100i , out and back in, in less than 4 hours from start to end.

[Baldini]

Thanks again!

KB

[Ballacraine]

I did mine following Paul's plan of attack.

 

It worked well.

 

One wrinkle to bear in mind if you are fitting a twin plate unit is that the clutch centre needs to be from a V11 twin plate 6 Speeder.... A clutch centre from 5 speed units will not fit as are a different diameter shaft.

 

Nige.

[Paul Minnaert]

well that part is nr 04082800

[Baldini]

I'm putting in a RAM unit. Hopefully, all the bits'll be present...

 

KB

[moscowphil]

Hi KB. Nothing useful to add at the moment I'm afraid, but I'm just about to start the same operation myself - RAM clutch turned up from Agostini's today, so tomorrow I'll be making a start. I will keep you posted on any problems, fixes etc I come across if you will do the same. Doesn't look like it should be too bad a job though (famous last words!).

 

Having had a look at the new RAM unit, one thing that occurred to me is that the flywheel itself is actually a very simple shaped lump of metal. Has anyone thought of getting one (to the same design as the original) machined up out of steel? Ought to be cheaper than the 500 Euros I had to fork out for the RAM unit I would have thought .... Cheers

 

Phil

[mznyc]

Hi Guys,

Could you guys take pics along the way to show you progress?I'm planning on doing the Ram swap and it would be of great help to me and others who are planning on doing the switch.

Does anyone else have pics of the motor removal?

Thanks,

MZ

[Baldini]

Took engine out. Bit of f'in about but not too bad. Made a little trolley as Paul suggested (worked well but shop only had 2 swivel castors meant I couldn't get it to move sideways so easy...). Found it easier to disconnect electrics & remove subframe completely. Also best to remove exhaust system completely - I tried at first leaving the balance pipe in place but needed the space for leverage when motor hung up on dowel at bottom of bellhousing joint (slight corrosion). Will try a more informative "how to" & some photos when time permits.

 

I have looked at the clutch. These are my first thoughts:

 

The flywheel is showing no obvious cracks to the naked eye, but clear stress marks (dye penetrant test may show as cracks) are visible above outside edges of bolt holes in places that correspond exactly with cracks on previous failed flywheels.

The large ring washer that sits around flywheel centre is not flat & stress marks on flywheel correspond with where washer contacts it behind bolts. (The outside edge of the washer is not in contact with the flywheel). Wether this washer is distorted at manufacture (possibly pressed rather than machined tho it does seem to show machining marks) or by bolts when torqued I don't know. Bolts have a very small contact area with this washer & I would have thought a larger face under the bolt head would have spread the load better. Another thing about the washer is that the centre hole where it sits on crank is oversize. The washer that came with the RAM kit is snug fit on crank. There is also a witness mark on the back of the flywheel where crank edge sits, that corresponds again with the point at which the failed flywheels have cracked around the centre.

 

Every component of the flywheel/clutch assy is different to that on the RAM assy I have. To my untrained eye, there is no very obvious difference that would immediately explain the problem. The centre section on both flywheels is same thickness, & both flywheels weigh about same.

 

I will start a seperate thread on clutch/flywheel with details of differences etc, & hopefully have some photos to make clearer.

 

KB

[Paul Minnaert]

the bolts were stil really tight?

[Ballacraine]

Mine weren't when I did mine.

 

They were barely nipped up

 

Nige.

[mznyc]

Baldini,

What country/version is your bike?

Thanks,

Michael

[Baldini]

Bolts were generously loctited but didn't take much effort to crack open. I'm not an expert but they were certainly no more than averagely tight for an 8mm bolt, & pos less so. Didn't feel they were as tight as 40-42Nm MG spec.

 

Bike is UK spec 02 Scura. FAIK there are no model variations within Scuras, except territory related.

 

KB