brake pedal removal

[mdude]

Repairing my bike after the shunt I got to try to remove the rear brake pedal yesterday (ordered new one from TLM: 130 euros!), by loosening the big hex it pivots around. After using almighty force on it and getting it perhaps 5-7mm out it kinda stuck. I chickened out and instead of getting all Hulk on it I screwed it back in.

Any secrets about getting this out? It seems that it also connects the porkchop to the subframe. Will dramatic events occur if I really lean on it and supermanforce it out of its hole?

The bike is on it sidestand by the way, does this load up the subframe in any way?

 

Swift suggestions, please. I'll have a go at it again tonight...

 

otherwise: in the process of repainting the carbon fairing which was badly scuffed. Mighty fun job, and its looking good. New front brake lever in place (Ducati part, and reasonably priced too). Rossopuro cylinder protectors on their way. Valve covers are made out of unobtainium, so I'll strip them and polish them both since the right cover was scuffed. I think shiny covers will look great too.

Spark plug caps are a bit of a problem, NGK seems to have discontinued the stock item. Any suggestions?

Buell footpeg mod are next, my wife made me a happy man by securing me a Dremel minidrill kit which will make things easier.

New micro indicators will be done when the plaster on my arm is removed, cant do small precision work with that on.

Muffler: I'll manhandle the smashed right one into place and fork out for a new set of Mistrals later this summer.

 

And then theres the smashed helmet and holed pants... expensive start of season....

[Guest scrat]

Regarding sparkplug caps, have a look at http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/

[Guest ratchethack]

Repairing my bike after the shunt I got to try to remove the rear brake pedal yesterday (ordered new one from TLM: 130 euros!), by loosening the big hex it pivots around. After using almighty force on it and getting it perhaps 5-7mm out it kinda stuck. I chickened out and instead of getting all Hulk on it I screwed it back in.

Any secrets about getting this out? It seems that it also connects the porkchop to the subframe. Will dramatic events occur if I really lean on it and supermanforce it out of its hole?

The bike is on it sidestand by the way, does this load up the subframe in any way?

Martin, I've had most of this area of the bike apart for trans removal. While I was in there, I cleaned and threadlocked all the fasteners involved in the process.

 

NOTE: It seems to be counter-intuitive to many to consider that proper cleaning of threads and threadlocking them is actually a very effective anti-seize as well as a retention measure. Threadlocker chemically inhibits bi-metal galvanic corrosion, which can freeze threaded fasteners, particularly when steel is threaded into aluminum -- but also steel-in-steel. In the case of the brake lever, as you mentioned, the pivot bolt is shouldered, and serves as a fastener of the pork chop to the subframe, being threaded into the steel of the subframe. At least you don't have to be concerned about stripping out delicate aluminum threads in the pork chop!

 

In the case that the bolt came 5-7 mm out before encountering resistance, I'd apply penetrating oil both to the outboard side of the bolt and to the inboard through-hole in the subframe where the steel threads are, and work the bolt back and forth. I would NOT force it -- a little paticence here can save much grief! With any luck it will continue to loosen and eventually come out.

 

Once it's out, I would carefully clean out both the male and female threads and apply threadlocker going back together -- if you have one (if not, this might be a reason to buy one), first carefully chase the female threads with a tap, and clean up the bolt with a thread file. It's a perfect opportunity to clean and apply your favorite lube to the shift lever pivot. I like boat trailer wheel bearing grease here and at many other such lube points.

 

Good luck.

 

EDIT: It just dawned on me why your question about loading up the subframe by having the bike on the side-stand is a good one! Though I don't think it would be any too likely to contribute substantially to the locking-up of the bolt 5-7 mm out, I would certainly have the bike up on a proper stand when removing the brake lever pivot bolt, if for no other reason than to better steady the bike -- not to mention to offset this concern.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[mdude]

Hmmmm.... since I got my plaster off yesterday I decided to really give the bolt holding the brake pedal a go. Soaked it in penetrating oil, let it rest, screwed it back and forth a couple of times and really tried to get it out. I got it perhaps 2 mm further out this time and then it stuck. Seriously stuck, cant get it in cant get it out. I dont dare to really lean on it.

 

Can someone who has frequently removed his pork chop share some of his experiences?

It seems to me that the mounting hole on the subframe (after getting the bolt halfway out) is not perfectly lined up to the mounting hole on the porkchop (by feeling my way behind the pork chop and comparing with the mounting on the left side). It might have slid apart slightly and got the bolt trapped between the parts in a death grip....

 

Is this usual, that you have to use brutal bending force to get the pork chop on and off the subframe?

I fear a serious problem here....

 

I still do not have a centre stand or bike lift, so the bike is on its sidestand. I'm still guessing this can be the problem, loading up the subframe. Or?

[mdude]

replying to my own edited post here, just o get it on top.... read the above posting guys

[Bruce Reader]

Hmmmm.... since I got my plaster off yesterday I decided to really give the bolt holding the brake pedal a go. Soaked it in penetrating oil, let it rest, screwed it back and forth a couple of times and really tried to get it out. I got it perhaps 2 mm further out this time and then it stuck. Seriously stuck, cant get it in cant get it out. I dont dare to really lean on it.

 

Can someone who has frequently removed his pork chop share some of his experiences?

It seems to me that the mounting hole on the subframe (after getting the bolt halfway out) is not perfectly lined up to the mounting hole on the porkchop (by feeling my way behind the pork chop and comparing with the mounting on the left side). It might have slid apart slightly and got the bolt trapped between the parts in a death grip....

 

Is this usual, that you have to use brutal bending force to get the pork chop on and off the subframe?

I fear a serious problem here....

 

I still do not have a centre stand or bike lift, so the bike is on its sidestand. I'm still guessing this can be the problem, loading up the subframe. Or?

*sorry the bike was on a lift under the engine*

 

I had no troubles removing mine while resealing the transmission. i had the bike on a swingarm stand (bike upright).

 

Carefull and good luck !

 

regards

 

Bruce

[Guest ratchethack]

Martin, this doesn't sound like it's going in the right direction, and I reckon there's no silver bullet "fix". As I commented above, I would not have gone forward with this with the bike on the side stand, if not for reasons of stabilizing the bike for safety, to offset the concerns you had on this from the start. It's pretty serious now. I don't know wot more can be said.

 

FWIW, I've had my brake lever pivot bolt out several times to lube the pivot, always with the bike on the MG stand. At no point was there ANY side-loading on the bolt. Before going forward, you want to get things in this kind of alignment if you can.

 

I'd previously suggested not forcing things. Now that force appears to have been applied with the potential of side loads contributing to further thread failure, there's little doubt that considerable thread damage has been done. Before you go any further, it might be helpful to you to know if loading up of the subframe by virtue of the side stand has created the havoc you're dealing with now, and to eliminate it if possible before proceeding any further. I would think you could easily determine if the side stand had caused side loading on the bolt by feeling for movement at the bolt relative to the pork chop as you tilt the bike off the side stand.

 

At this point your options are limited, and I'm afraid none of 'em are pretty. Because the bolt is both shouldered and countersunk, cutting it off is not an option. With this level of damage done, continuing with more force, up to and including the point of failure of parts is probably your only remaining option. I can only offer wot I'd do with the understanding that there would likely be several different approaches possible, none of them (including mine) that will be guaranteed to be successful, pretty, easy and/or inexpensive. Here's wot I'd do:

 

1. In the interest of damage control at this point, get the bike up on a decent stand to reduce any liklihood of further roaching of the threads by side loads, as well as to mitigate the risk of dropping the bike. If you need to, with blocks, 2x4's and zip screws, you can build a very secure cradle that supports the bike on the heads of the socket screws at the sides of the sump, and block the cradle up as solidly as possible under the cradle with cross-beams.

 

2. Use a cheater bar on the allen key, and continue working it back and forth as before with penetrating oil.

 

3. If the above fails due to stripping out the socket head in the bolt or breaking the allen key, I would grind flats on the outside of the head of the bolt to accept a large 6-point socket or box-end wrench, and have at it again with more force. If all fails up to this point, I'd put a cheater extension on a breaker bar with a socket and reef on it until the bolt comes out or breaks off. This will allow the subframe to be removed, and you can take it to a machinist to extract the remains of the bolt if need be, have it welded and re-tapped, etc.

 

At this point I reckon there's little downside to any of this, unless sourcing a new porkchop and subframe bracing, in addition to a brake lever and pivot bolt would be considered a better option to start with. I'd look at it this way -- If the above works, whether the bolt comes out or breaks off, at least you've saved the pork chop, and you can re-work the subframe. If the above fails, I reckon a new 'chop and subframe becomes your new Plan A.

 

I'm sure others will have suggestions.

 

Good luck, my friend.

[GuzziMoto]

Don't know about the specifics of the bolt your removing(side loads,etc.) but heating with a torch may help. If your brave, heat then spray penatrating fluid(careful most good fluids are flammable).

Good luck.

[mdude]

I've got one more option, and that is to loosen all other bolts a tad, just to release the deathgrip on the brake pedal bolt. Seems I've got to open my wallet and buy a bike lift.....

[Ryland3210]

I've got one more option, and that is to loosen all other bolts a tad, just to release the deathgrip on the brake pedal bolt. Seems I've got to open my wallet and buy a bike lift.....

 

If you have a beam to attach to, as an alternative to a bike lift, you could consider using a chain hoist. With the seat off, I pass a 1 inch sling through the frame between the tank and battery, and another sling around the handlebar. Both are attached to the chain hoist hook. It can be raised up a few feet, and leaves the entire bike level and accessible to work on while I'm sitting down if I want to.