elctric failure

[gallo_se]

Hi, our fairy tale started when one morning out of nowhere I turned the key to start the bike and nothing lighted up, bike wouldn't start. Fuses ok, swapped the relays, no change. The following evening the bike would start normally. Now, It happened again after a couple of weeks, so I changed the fuses with those provided by Dan Prunuske, but still the problem persists. I get the oil light up, the pump primes, no front light, and most scary of all, when I press the starter the rpm indicator goes up and the relay starts ticking like hell. According to Dan if you put 5 pin relays instead of 4 pin relays it should work cause one of the pins is not in use.

What the hell coulbe going on there? clutch or side stand or neutral switch? what else?

Thanks guys

[docc]

Check the battery voltage with a good digital meter. Low voltage could do this.

[motoguzznix]

When the starter solenoid is ticking all clutch an neutral switches work like they should. Check the battery cable connecting screws and the connection to the starter motor. Check as well the connection to the frame. When all connectors are tight and the bike still refuses to start, load the battery or try a good one. 90% sure your bike will start at this point.

 

Concerning the relays: one - the starter relay - is necessarily a 5 pin type. All the others can be a 4 pin type, but a 5 pin works as well. When you do not touch the starter button, the current runs through the starter relay to the light relay. When there is no light, you should check if the light relay is activated by the starter relay. When you press the starter button the starter relay is activated, the connection to the light relay is interrupted and the battery tension should be at the starter solenoid. Pull the 6.3 mm connector at the starter and check voltage when the starter button is pressed.

[gallo_se]

Hey huys, a little update on my electric problems: yesterday was a very sunny, warm, dry day (what the f.... does this have to do with the electrics? I'm coming there in a min), well, the bike started with on problems, all the electrics are working ok. I start to think that somewhere there is a cable that is not well insulated and it goes bananas when gets soaked (this is my technical explanation), I now only have to find which one it is.

[docc]

Try tightening the battery connections.

 

How did that voltage look?

[gallo_se]

haven't checked the battery voltage, battery connections are tight, sure of that, the bike does not show any visible low battery problem, when it starts, it starts great, when it does not start, it's always been after rain or shower. I had a while ago the problem that the starter wire broke, the idiot in the garage where I brought the bike to be checked stripped the insulation to check which wire was not working, from the starter down to the connection below the tank, and then sealotaped the wires instead of putting a proper insulation. I think that's the problem.....

[Murray]

If the battery is getting a bit iffy it will initally show up in colder weather cheack your voltages and get a load test done before spending hours chasing your own rectum, an activity I seem to do a lot of these days.

[gallo_se]

Inailed the fucker, it's the neutral switch that fails, no neutral light, no engine running, but if lift the side stand, thebike strats normally. Emhhhh! what do I do now?

[nose2wind]

Inailed the fucker, it's the neutral switch that fails, no neutral light, no engine running, but if lift the side stand, thebike strats normally. Emhhhh! what do I do now?

 

Change it!

 

Easy fix. Left side above the starter.

[gallo_se]

Change it!

 

Easy fix. Left side above the starter.

 

ok, so nothing electrical/complicated involved, I just unscrew it out of the gearbox cover and change it? is that it?

could it just be that it needs to be "lubricated" or something similar?

[OldButNotDead]

Yes unscrew it and plug the hole with a bit of paper towel to retain the tranny oil. Many discussions of this returned by searching on "neutral switch". You could try cleaning (vs. replacing) it; worked for me . See:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=neutral+switch

 

 

 

ok, so nothing electrical/complicated involved, I just unscrew it out of the gearbox cover and change it? is that it?

could it just be that it needs to be "lubricated" or something similar?

[Guest ratchethack]

ok, so nothing electrical/complicated involved, I just unscrew it out of the gearbox cover and change it? is that it?

could it just be that it needs to be "lubricated" or something similar?

As I recall, someone a few years back had similarly diagnosed an intermittent neutral light switch. He found that switching to Redline Shockproof Heavy in the trans provided an improvement in lubricity sufficient to allow the plunger that activates the neutral switch to move more freely in it's bore, which solved his problem without meddling with the switch or plunger -- and gave him a smoother shifting trans to boot.

 

You could give this a try if you aren't already using RLSH. If it doesn't solve the problem, you've at least achieved what would (IMHO) more'n likely be an "upgrade" from dino or "generic" synth., or wotever else you might have in the trans.

 

Just a thought.

[Tom M]

Yes unscrew it and plug the hole with a bit of paper towel to retain the tranny oil. Many discussions of this returned by searching on "neutral switch". You could try cleaning (vs. replacing) it; worked for me . See:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=neutral+switch

 

It just so happens that my neutral light stopped working yesterday. After grounding the sender wire and seeing the light work I pulled the switch. The plunger was free and working fine so I put an ohm meter on the contact nad on the body and pushed the plunger all the way in. No contact. I'm thinking this means that I have to replace the switch. Anybody have any other ideas on salvaging the one that I've got?

 

PS I'm running Redline. It pained me to see dribbling out the hole when I pulled the switch

[OldButNotDead]

Yah, try working the plunger in hot soapy water, then WD-40 or similar. Can't say why, but this revived mine.

 

It just so happens that my neutral light stopped working yesterday. After grounding the sender wire and seeing the light work I pulled the switch. The plunger was free and working fine so I put an ohm meter on the contact nad on the body and pushed the plunger all the way in. No contact. I'm thinking this means that I have to replace the switch. Anybody have any other ideas on salvaging the one that I've got?

 

PS I'm running Redline. It pained me to see dribbling out the hole when I pulled the switch

[tdisme]

Inailed the fucker, it's the neutral switch that fails, no neutral light, no engine running, but if lift the side stand, thebike strats normally. Emhhhh! what do I do now?

I went through the relays, the sidestand switch, the starter button, the starter button wire, a new battery, after I discovered that I could hold down the start button and shake the damn thing back and forth and it would start every time!

 

Seems like it was the starter wire/switch change that fixed it. Wrench told me that he had once seen the wire on another Goose cut under the tank by a too tight wire tie from the factory.

 

I figure its' just the Guzzi-Goblin!