JoeV11 Posted May 16, 2007 Posted May 16, 2007 OK, I read that others machine their stock bar end weights to accept mirror mounts, and went and cut mine down. When I put them back on, I realized they always rotated with little resistance. I tightened the screw as much as I dare, and it isn't getting any better. What secret Moto Guzzi procedure am I missing? Thanks, Joe
Steve G. Posted May 17, 2007 Posted May 17, 2007 Here's what I did. I have the Agostini bar weights. They still didn't take out enough vibes. So, because I wanted bar end mirrors as well, I combined the two. I removed the cool brass wedged tightening/securing things from the Ago bar end weights, and used them to secure the chrome Napolen Beren bar end mirrors, which work great, as the rubber crushing thing on the Beren mirror doesn't work so well on the stock V11 bars. The result, is less vibes than the Ago bar weights, and the best mirrors for the money, all in one! Ciao, Steve
JoeV11 Posted May 17, 2007 Author Posted May 17, 2007 What brand of bar ends? They're the stock Guzzi bar end weights with the long rubber part inside the handlebar. The mirrors are CRG knock-offs: http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&...item=MRX_MBM1_G Hopefully there's a way to keep the stock bar ends, and not have to re-do the lathe work on new weights. Thanks Joe
Greg Field Posted May 17, 2007 Posted May 17, 2007 On the CRGs I sell at Moto Intl., it works really well to use a 12mm nut inside the clamp part of the CRG. This acts as something for the mirror to clamp onto. Then, we use them in conjunction with a heavier set of bar-ends we sell, which use brash wedges as a means to grip the inside of the bar. Perhaps a 12mm nut would work on thse knockoffs, too?
pShenk Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 Hopefully there's a way to keep the stock bar ends, and not have to re-do the lathe work on new weights. I had the same problem, and I tried a lot of things. I tried some duct tape around the weights, to get a tighter fit (it was hard to get the right amount, and still be able to get the weights in the bars... or OUT for that matter. And even when I got them pretty tight, the weights still spun around eventually. This is going to sound pretty ghetto, but my solution was this. You know the pin that runs through the rod that goes through the bar cap on the end? Well you know how it lies against the big nut that screws into the end of the bar? I put a dab of glue on it... some epoxy, which then prevented the whole bar weight from spinning. It's just a dab, so I can chip it out later if I have to. As far as what I actually clamp the mirror to, I think I got the things from CRG that work for that. THey are the bar weights that cap onto the end of the bar, and they have a little channel that the clamps attach to. But you're not using CRGs... maybe those end-caps would still work though. Greg's idea sounds good also. On the CRGs I sell at Moto Intl., it works really well to use a 12mm nut inside the clamp part of the CRG. This acts as something for the mirror to clamp onto. Then, we use them in conjunction with a heavier set of bar-ends we sell, which use brash wedges as a means to grip the inside of the bar. Perhaps a 12mm nut would work on thse knockoffs, too? Those heavier bar weights, with the brass wedges, sound great. Heh, I would have bought some of those when I got my rearsets yesterday, if I had known they existed How much are they?
Skeeve Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 Do bicycle gooseneck wedges come in a size to fit the ID of 7/8" OD standard handlebar tubing? Seems that they might be a cheaper effective solution than special "motorcycle wedgies." Every bar end held on w/ rubber squidgies eventually works loose, IME. Metal wedges would seem to be the solution.
Guest ratchethack Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 I made up a set of wedges out of brass bar stock one time (can't remember the application ) but it was quick and effective as I recall -- brass is easy to work with and won't rust. Get the right diameter bar stock, bore & tap it, cut it on an angle with a hacksaw or bandsaw, finish it off, and Bob's yer Uncle.
JoeV11 Posted May 19, 2007 Author Posted May 19, 2007 Since it's raining out, I could spend some quality time on this problem. At first I thought it was just the inner rod turning inside the rubber bushing, so I drilled through and added an 1/8" pin: That didn't do it - the whole rubber was turning. It needed more pull, and the end bolt is designed to bottom out, not draw the assembly tighter. So I added an .087" thick washer behind the cross pin, on top of the o-ring: That really did the trick. There was still some looseness, so I "glued" the whole thing into the bar by spraying acrylic clear paint on the rubber sleeve just before inserting into the bar. That will hold it in place but still allow future disassembly. Unfortunately it will be a few days until I can verify my solution works, the aforementioned rain is supposed to continue for a while Joe PS, here is what I did to the stock bar ends to accept the mirrors, there is no slippage there. The lathe chuck tore up the powder coat, so I stripped and painted them.
Guest Barnapkin Posted May 21, 2007 Posted May 21, 2007 I have the 14 oz. throttlemeister. It's supposed to turn. He he.
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