Rear tire removal

[gargoyle]

Ok I've read everything I could dig up under a search but one question still remains. It appears that if you have enough clearance (the bike is high enough off the deck) once all the appropriate stuff has been disconnected the wheel will drop straight down. Is this a correct assumption that I don't have to remove any of the rear fender parts?

[dlaing]

No need to remove fender parts nor muffler nor the bolt that holds on the brake caliper

You do need to un-clip the brake line from a few of the clips so that it can drop away from the wheel.

The brake caliper will come off once the axle is removed enough.

It is helpful to not pull the axle all the way out. Keeping it in helps prevent loss of washer and bearing race on the right side, makes reassembly quick and easy.

Beware of the spacer between the wheel and hub, it will want to fall out or not when you don't expect it and roll under a table, like the freedom loving meatball in that song,

 

On top of spaghetti,

All covered with cheese,

I lost my poor meatball,

When somebody sneezed.

 

It rolled off the table,

And on to the floor,

And then my poor meatball,

Rolled out of the door.

 

It rolled in the garden,

And under a bush,

And then my poor meatball,

Was nothing but mush.

 

The mush was as tasty

As tasty could be,

And then the next summer,

It grew into a tree.

 

The tree was all covered,

All covered with moss,

And on it grew meatballs,

And tomato sauce.

 

So if you eat spaghetti,

All covered with cheese,

Hold on to your meatball,

Whenever you sneeze.

[antonio carroccio]

What is this David? You start with alcohol too?

[Guest Nogbad]

I think you should sing it for us and post up the .wav file.

[Guest ratchethack]

Ok I've read everything I could dig up under a search but one question still remains. (the bike is high enough off the deck) once all the appropriate stuff has been disconnected the wheel will drop straight down. Is this a correct assumption that I don't have to remove any of the rear fender parts?

It might be emphasized that getting the wheel out is easily and properly done by withdrawing the spindle by 7-9" ONLY. This allows you to realize one of the many JOYS of shaft drive -- the other side of the coin being not messing with a chain. It provides enough clearance to "hang" the bevel box, along with the spacer between it and the wheel itself (as Dave mentioned) on the spindle. The wheel, free of the spindle, may then be coaxed off its hub splines that engage it with the bevel box, and dropped down and out.

 

NOTE: Many's the shop Troglodyte who's been known to yank out the spindle all the way, allowing the full combined weight of the 20-lb. bevel box AND ~20-lb. wheel and tire to drop sharply downward, allowing the driveshaft to hit the swingarm tunnel far up forward, putting excessive, sudden, and UNWANTED EXTREMELY LEVERAGED 40 lbs. MAGNIFIED about 10X on the forward U-joint , risking damage to the trunnion bearings. You don't want that.

 

As Dave mentioned, the brake caliper will come away with the caliper carrier, the first thing to disengage from the spindle as it's drawn out. The caliper and carrier may then be slipped forward and down off the disk and rested on a support of some kind, so as not to put undue strain on the brake line.

 

Have fun.

[gargoyle]

Thanks for the extra info ratchet. I thought I had to disconnect everything on the right side before dropping the assembly. I'm not quite ready for a tire change yet but I'm gathering info. The best part is I don't have to remove all that subframe I just installed for the trailer. I wasn't looking forward to that.

[dlaing]

The best part is I don't have to remove all that subframe I just installed for the trailer. I wasn't looking forward to that.

Your hitch frame will probably require you to jack the bike up higher than would normally be necessary.

Let us know how that works out!

Gargoyle's post on the trailer is here:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=11341&hl=