Question for the pros

[Dan M]

Dan, I appreciate your posts on brakes. It's kinda like being on an extended big game hunting trip with a gunsmith or a ballistics expert in the party -- you just can't beat professional specialty expertise if & when it's called for. . .

 

Though I will very sparingly use penetrating oil on disk brake "buttons" to keep them from freezing -- carefully wiping up all excess, I've always been leery of anything resembling grease or oil anywhere near pads and disks -- likewise brake shoes or drums back in the day. I'd no more put Sil-glyde or anything remotely like it on brake piston seals, let alone ends of pads or between pistons and pads, than I'd put wheel bearing grease on pad faces or disks. Knowing how hot brakes get, seems to me any lube anywhere near a hot spot stands a good chance of melting and running out into wotever it's close to, following the heat path as would be expected, and pads and rotor are just too close for my comfort. But that's just me. . .

 

I've also seen guys spray their disk brake calipers -- pads, disks, the whole thing -- with WD-40, as if it were the same as Brakleen. Someone on this Forum not long ago posted he does the same.

 

This just gives me the heebie-jeebies , knowing that WD-40 is essentially naptha-based cleaning solvent with a little penetrating oil additive -- seems to me this would ensure the brake pads would suffer permanent contamination and performance loss from oils driven into relatively porous pads by the solvent.

 

But that's mostly shade-tree speculation on my part. Any comment?

 

First off, I would not spray any WD40 or other penetrant anywhere near my brake pads.

 

The stuff we use is identical to sil-glyde, (possibly repackaged) by 1st Ayd chemical. they call it "High-Temp silicone brake/caliper lube & dielectric grease"

Under the recommended use for disc brakes they list: "caliper slides/sleeves; pad/caliper contact points; rubber bushings/pins & o-rings; metal side of brake pads.

 

We are in the habit of using this stuff where I mentioned in my 1st post, and have never had a problem with it not staying put. I'll add that we service all of the local police cruisers who's brakes regularly come in with the rotors blue from overheating. So the stuff stands up to heat.

As said before, use sparingly, too much of anything is trouble.

I think you were the one to coin the phrase "bath tub caulker" in regards to someone and their liberal use of silicone sealant. Same goes here.

On your floater buttons, try to find a PTFE or Teflon dry lube. (KEEP THE STUFF AWAY FROM YOUR PADS) Spray it on the buttons, let it dry, wipe your rotor faces with brake clean and you're done. I would worry about penetrant weeping onto the braking surface from centrifugal force.

[Guest ratchethack]

On your floater buttons, try to find a PTFE or Teflon dry lube. (KEEP THE STUFF AWAY FROM YOUR PADS) Spray it on the buttons, let it dry, wipe your rotor faces with brake clean and you're done. I would worry about penetrant weeping onto the braking surface from centrifugal force.

Roger PTFE on the buttons. Sounds smarter than wot I've been doing, careful as I've been not to over-do. I always clean disks up "hospital clean" with Brakleen &/or lacquer thinner -- no fingerprints a-tall.

 

Ain't much finer than a full complement o' big Brembo's that're 100% predictable, eh?

 

Thanks again, Dan.

[pete roper]

First off, I would not spray any WD40 or other penetrant anywhere near my brake pads.

(Snip.)

On your floater buttons, try to find a PTFE or Teflon dry lube. (KEEP THE STUFF AWAY FROM YOUR PADS) Spray it on the buttons, let it dry, wipe your rotor faces with brake clean and you're done. I would worry about penetrant weeping onto the braking surface from centrifugal force.

 

(Gurgle!) WD40 on brakes????? God's teeth!

 

Dan, I too would worry about the application of lubricants near to the rotors which is why I made such apoint in my previous post about it being the responsibility of the individual to make sure they didn't over lubricate them. The stuff I use for the purpose is an aerosol can of a product, (Who's name elludes me.) that is specifically designed to work in *dry* type environments. Using a tube applicator in the nozzle I only use the tiniest squirt, barely enough for the substance to get to the end of the tube! Any excess that does appear around the bobbins is wiped off with a clean rag and I then wipe the rotor faces with metho to remove any traces that may of got on the disc.

 

Look, it works for me. I'm not saying it's a 'Must Do' or that there aren't equally good alternatives but I hate seized, pulsy, discs and with care they can be avoided.

 

Pete

[Dan M]

 

Dan, I too would worry about the application of lubricants near to the rotors which is why I made such apoint in my previous post about it being the responsibility of the individual to make sure they didn't over lubricate them. The stuff I use for the purpose is an aerosol can of a product, (Who's name elludes me.) that is specifically designed to work in *dry* type environments. Using a tube applicator in the nozzle I only use the tiniest squirt, barely enough for the substance to get to the end of the tube! Any excess that does appear around the bobbins is wiped off with a clean rag and I then wipe the rotor faces with metho to remove any traces that may of got on the disc.

 

Look, it works for me. I'm not saying it's a 'Must Do' or that there aren't equally good alternatives but I hate seized, pulsy, discs and with care they can be avoided.

 

Pete

 

Righto Pete. Is is an area where people need to be meticulous. Doing it the way you do is perfect, I worry about the guy who has a heavy trigger finger and sprays enough to spatter some on the other rotor. Cleaning up after is everything. Dry Teflon or PTFE lube is great for this application, the liquid aerosol that carries the lube evaporates leaving a dry almost powdery film. It doesn't attract dirt so things stay nice longer.