That pesky cracked timing cover oil leak

[belfastguzzi]

Like others I've had the oil leak from blown out gasket between timing chest cover and engine (right side). An exterior fix was made with sealant as previously reported. Now I've had the bad leak from a cracked casing (left side) that others have had too. This looks to me like a very weak spot immediately at a stressed engine hanger.

 

I had a few hundred miles to get home, so was able to enjoy oil all over the bottom half of engine, exhaust and of course rear brake and tyre. Well, the rear brake was broken anyway...

 

REPAIR

I have glued over the crack with epoxy. The sceptics will say that it will never hold. We'll see.

 

This is where the leak started

 

Too much stress and cover bolted to engine through very thin section

 

so it cracked at this weak spot and timing chest cover pulled away from joint

 

 

Strat of the oil seep

 

through crack and split joint

 

Glued repair. Will it last?

 

 

Brake levers bent and broken

 

Tied and splinted repair to get me home from the Scottish highlands

 

Parts straightened and splinted with cut scrap aluminium section that I had

 

glued with epoxy and filled

 

splint for other side cut, shaped and glued on

 

and rivetted through

 

Not elegant, but it works and I'm back on the road

 

Front brake lever was broken too

 

replaced with a previously broken lever that was straightened, glued and bolted together

 

Protector and plug & cap were broken too

[Guest ratchethack]

Masterful bodgery, BFG -- fairly extensive, too. . . and I mean that only in the most complimentary sense!

 

Did the timing case cover crack appear before or after the -- er -- unfortunate dismount?

[jrt]

I didn't know you had a get-off. Hope you're ok.

 

I like the rear brake lever- that's a nice looking fix

 

I would worry about the crankcase, though. If it's cracked, then it is structurally less sound and as a stressed member of the frame, that bears close observation. Keep an eye on it!

[dlaing]

I nominate BFG for FOUR bodge points!!!!

[belfastguzzi]

I didn't know you had a get-off. Hope you're ok.

 

I like the rear brake lever- that's a nice looking fix

 

I would worry about the crankcase, though. If it's cracked, then it is structurally less sound and as a stressed member of the frame, that bears close observation. Keep an eye on it!

 

I got off before the bike went down!

It was 'wind related'. It blew over (that's my story and I'm sticking to it) with full tank of petrol and loaded tankbag.

 

I haven't spotted any timing covers yet. The supply that was previously mentioned has all gone.

 

Masterful bodgery, BFG -- fairly extensive, too. . . and I mean that only in the most complimentary sense!

 

Did the timing case cover crack appear before or after the -- er -- unfortunate dismount?

Timing is everything.

 

In this case

the timing of everything

was extensively unfortunate.

[callison]

Remove the tank and check the spine for damage. I didn't get broke motor mounts until after a crash.

[belfastguzzi]

Remove the tank and check the spine for damage. I didn't get broke motor mounts until after a crash.

Cheers Carl. It wasn't a crash – it did just fall over (blew over). Clip on got bent as well as the other stuff: hopefully that all took the shock and but there wasn't enough force to affect the frame spine.

[mike wilson]

If you are really pushed for a repair to the timing cover, try Lumi-weld. It's a sort of idiot's alloy welding substance. Still requires a bit of skill to use but I have used it a number of times, including when I decylindered a BMW with my kneecap. It mended the BM case but did bugger all for my leg.

 

OTOH, modern, gas shrouded electric welding is quite easy to do. You might be able to get a repair done comparatively easily.

[jrt]

I'd vote for a TIG weld, except that the alloys Guzzi uses are crap. If you weld it, then have it welded by a pro.

[Guest ratchethack]

From hard personal experience with welding alu motorcycle castings, for anything beyond welding a fin back on a head, you can expect the heat required for serious welding to warp castings far beyond your imagination's capacity for warpage.

 

Now I've done this and resurfaced cases successfully -- and I think I did a head once, but in each case, had to take so much metal off to get surfaces true again (yes, I was dumb enough to try this a few times more than once -- several outer primary chaincase covers and one or more actual cases. ) that semi-critical clearances other than recovering the machined flat plane of the casting were more than compromised in each instance, making other modifications necessary, and trust me -- it ain't worth it.

 

Very importantly, the internal stresses that are set up in the casting from the weld essentially make the "renewed" casting all but a "pre-broken part".

 

Best source a replacement part, as Dr. Gil did. Alternatively, as I suggested to Gil way back when -- epoxy (JB Weld) for a temporary solution while the search is afoot (as BFG has so masterfully bodged ), and don't lose any riding time.

 

BTW - Lumi-Weld is an old low-temp, low-quality zinc-heavy "pot-metal" welding solution suitable for Aunt Matilda's broken fairy statuette or her broken pewter teapot handle. Please, except as a temporary solution in the case above (just as JB Weld would more'n likely be), do NOT attempt to use it on any stressed part on a motorcycle.

 

IMHO, YM ain't likely to V.

[mike wilson]

BTW - Lumi-Weld is an old low-temp, low-quality zinc-heavy "pot-metal" welding solution suitable for Aunt Matilda's broken fairy statuette or her broken pewter teapot handle. Please, except as a temporary solution in the case above (just as JB Weld would more'n likely be), do NOT attempt to use it on any stressed part on a motorcycle.

 

IMHO, YM ain't likely to V.

 

It's held the BM's cylinder in this last 27 years. I probably wouldn't use it to rebuild a spoke flange, though.

[badmotogoozer]

Years ago down in Oregon my '70 Triumph decided it was time to shear the woodruff key holding the drive gear for the cams to the crank. Carved up the keyway beyond use too. JB'd the sucker back on behind a hardware store and rode it home the next day. It is still like that today. JB is stronger than you'd think.

 

Rj

[Guzzirider]

I feel a little guilty here because BFG had stopped to assist me when I went sliding down the road and obviously got off his bike in a hurry, then the strong wind blew it over a few moments later.

 

Top bodging there Belfast!!

 

Guy

[Admin Jaap]

BFG doing some roadside repairs:

[jrt]

Years ago down in Oregon my '70 Triumph decided it was time to shear the woodruff key holding the drive gear for the cams to the crank. Carved up the keyway beyond use too. JB'd the sucker back on behind a hardware store and rode it home the next day. It is still like that today. JB is stronger than you'd think.

 

Rj

 

I had a BMW that sheared the threaded end of the cam where the points mount. I drilled it out, put in a stud and JB welded that sucker in there. Never gave me any trouble.