That pesky cracked timing cover oil leak

[emry]

There is also "JB Kwik" a faster setting version of JB Weld. It will harden up in about 15 minutes making it perfect for roadside bodges. It also seems to be just as strong as the orginal. I sealed my timming chest the first time it blew out with it and the Mechanic that ended up replacing the gasket was not happy. (He was a wimp.) I keep some in all of my travel kits. Handy Stuff.

[Guest ratchethack]

Emry, I've also used both JB Weld "the original" and "Kwik" for years. As far as I can tell, Kwik is only slightly less "strong" when it cures. But there IS a difference -- else why continue to market the original? Whenever the application requires as much strength as it can possibly get, I use original. When strength doesn't matter that much, and/or cure time is critical, Kwik. I second the idea that Kwik is a superb addition to any traveling tool kit. Half-used-up tubes take up next to no space, can easily be shoved in the tailpiece, and weigh next to nothing. Reminds me I need to pick up a couple more tubes.

[Dan M]

The best epoxy I've used for aluminum is Hysol 608 by Locktite. It is a slow cure so not good for roadside repairs but adhesion and strength are excellent.

[belfastguzzi]

I used Halford's own brand, just because I had some of their 'metal weld' or whatever they call it, handy. It's metal-coloured. I did wonder about it though and thought that it would probably be better to use Araldite. But then, maybe Araldite makes the stuff for Halfords?

 

When I repaired the brake lever I used Araldite. It seemed to have a better look and feel – obviously that's not a scientific judgement, but if I'd been making scones, I would have eaten the Araldite one.

 

BTW, when putting the footbrake lever together, I did wonder if it should have a bend in it, but I didn't check. I made it straight. Now, looking at photos, I see that there was originally a bend in the lever, or at least there's one in Jaap's. Oh well, it doesn't really matter at the moment, as once again the rear brake pads are worn down to the metal.

[belfastguzzi]

Well, Halford's own didn't do the job. Oil has been seeping out underneath. When I prised the epoxy tonight, it peeled off like rubber.

 

I've tried again, with hopefully better stuff. Had a poke around to see what else I had and decided to go with JB Weld Kwik. Both the Araldite Rapid and Precision say they are ok to 65 degrees, whereas the JB says it's ok to 150 degrees C.

 

It could be that the nature of the break here means that there will always be movement in the casing, pulling the joint apart and worrying away at the adhesion of any hard adhesive so that it lifts and allows the oil out.

 

If the JB doesn't hold, I'll have a last try with flexible sealant, but that obviously won't provide any help with structural rigidity.

 

Does anyone know what sort of temperature the casing in this area might get to?

[jrt]

I have an oil temp gauge that rarely sees 110 C. The casting under the cylinder would likely be the same as or close to the oil temperature, I would guess (an uninformed guess, but it's all I got). Mine normally runs about 80 C and I've never seen it get up to 120 C.

[mike wilson]

Well, Halford's own didn't do the job. Oil has been seeping out underneath. When I prised the epoxy tonight, it peeled off like rubber.

 

I've tried again, with hopefully better stuff. Had a poke around to see what else I had and decided to go with JB Weld Kwik. Both the Araldite Rapid and Precision say they are ok to 65 degrees, whereas the JB says it's ok to 150 degrees C.

 

It could be that the nature of the break here means that there will always be movement in the casing, pulling the joint apart and worrying away at the adhesion of any hard adhesive so that it lifts and allows the oil out.

 

If the JB doesn't hold, I'll have a last try with flexible sealant, but that obviously won't provide any help with structural rigidity.

 

Does anyone know what sort of temperature the casing in this area might get to?

 

The problem is more likely that you are not getting proper adhesion due to oil contamination. To have any real chance of success, you probably need to cut out the crack as far as possible, wash what's left with something like acetone (nail varnish remover _without_ conditioner) and then build up replacement "metal" with epoxy mixed with something like chopped strand glass. If you know any aeromodellers in your area, they will be able to help. They get to do this sort of thing rather a lot.....

 

Another way might be to form then screw a patch of thin (~1mm) alloy sheet over the crack, covering it all with epoxy.

 

If you are using good quality epoxy the temperature should not be a problem.

[belfastguzzi]

The problem is more likely that you are not getting proper adhesion due to oil contamination. To have any real chance of success, you probably need to cut out the crack as far as possible, wash what's left with something like acetone (nail varnish remover _without_ conditioner) and then build up replacement "metal" with epoxy mixed with something like chopped strand glass. If you know any aeromodellers in your area, they will be able to help. They get to do this sort of thing rather a lot.....

 

Another way might be to form then screw a patch of thin (~1mm) alloy sheet over the crack, covering it all with epoxy.

 

If you are using good quality epoxy the temperature should not be a problem.

Thanks Mike

I cleaned the metal as well as I could, but I do wonder how porous it is (?), if, no matter how well the surface is cleaned, it's always going to be holding some oil? I don't know.

Obviously the best job would be to take the thing off in order to do it properly. I just don't have time for that in the near future. If the JB doesn't work I'll have a final epoxy try with Araldite. It's the one that gives me most confidence, it's always worked well before – various other motor related applications – and my best hammer is one that dropped off a roof, shaft broke at head and I repaired the shaft with string-reinforced-Araldite. It's still holding after 29 years. Er, it's not that I'm tight or anything: I'm just emotionally attached to good tools...

[Martin Barrett]

repaired the shaft with string-reinforced-Araldite

 

 

sorry brought a warm feeling to my heart, or it could be the G&T.

 

 

 

Sorry can't offer any constructive advise, but good luck anyway.

 

reminds me need to get some Araldite to plug the chip in my head light glass.

[macguzzi]

BODGETASTIC

[mike wilson]

Thanks Mike

I cleaned the metal as well as I could, but I do wonder how porous it is (?), if, no matter how well the surface is cleaned, it's always going to be holding some oil? I don't know.

Obviously the best job would be to take the thing off in order to do it properly. I just don't have time for that in the near future. If the JB doesn't work I'll have a final epoxy try with Araldite. It's the one that gives me most confidence, it's always worked well before – various other motor related applications – and my best hammer is one that dropped off a roof, shaft broke at head and I repaired the shaft with string-reinforced-Araldite. It's still holding after 29 years. Er, it's not that I'm tight or anything: I'm just emotionally attached to good tools...

 

I would go with cleaning as best as possible and then battering a piece of metal over it to as close a fit as possible. Attach it with some self-tappers. Then remove it and slather the area in good quality epoxy before reattaching.

 

 

Then watch it peel off again the next day.

 

I understand the attachment to tools. I am very attached to one in particular.

[belfastguzzi]

I would go with cleaning as best as possible and then battering a piece of metal over it to as close a fit as possible. Attach it with some self-tappers. Then remove it and slather the area in good quality epoxy before reattaching.

Then watch it peel off again the next day.

 

I understand the attachment to tools. I am very attached to one in particular.

 

And long may it remain attached – I know that you've had your worries.

If the worst comes, I recommend Araldite. Don't use Halfords.

[emry]

Or you could fix it properly by removing the front timing cover and getting rid of the sandwich wrapper gasket Guzzi used and using either Hylomar (Hylamar?) or some other similar nonhardening gasket maker. 3M 1104 or its Yama, Honda, Kaw - Bond equivilants. I used Hylomar after my third gasket blew withen 5k miles. Hasn't leaked in the 5k since.

 

or maybe he has been lurking about...

[belfastguzzi]

Or you could fix it properly by removing the front timing cover and getting rid of the sandwich wrapper gasket Guzzi used and using either Hylomar (Hylamar?) or some other similar nonhardening gasket maker. 3M 1104 or its Yama, Honda, Kaw - Bond equivilants. I used Hylomar after my third gasket blew withen 5k miles. Hasn't leaked in the 5k since.

 

or maybe he has been lurking about...

Thanks Emry

I'll remember that about the gasket.

Trouble is that it isn't the gasket this time, it's a cracked case and the cracked case is allowing the joint to pull open. Proper answer is new timing cover, at some horrendous price no doubt. That can wait.

[emry]

Oops. I forgot to re-read the inital post.

 

Maybe something like this would work better. http://www.muggyweld.com/super5.html or http://durafix.com

 

Never tired it, comments anyone?