About to take on first self service!!

[raz]

Ha Ha,This is like Stonhedge incident in Spinal Tap! "It's about to be trampled by a dwarf!"

Ah yes, I was gonna ask what movie you were talking about earlier... what Hump?

 

I got now,the thing I guess was confusing me was my Twrench only shows LB's and NM's.I'll just use NM's from here on out.

Other than that everything went well,upped the valve clearences to 15 in 20 out,but they were spot on for US specs.

On to TPS and TB sync,...wish me luck.

Good luck, just don't go near the TPS screws with the torque wrench and you'll be fine

[mznyc]

[Good luck, just don't go near the TPS screws with the torque wrench and you'll be fine

HA,HA,HA,!

Ah yes, I was gonna ask what movie you were talking about earlier... what Hump?

That was from Young Frankenstein.

[mznyc]

OK now confused about TPS.

1)I disconnected throttle body linkage.and fast idle cable.Backed out RH side throttle stop screw on back of TB.Removed screws from TPS,put paper clips in top and bottom wires of TPS connector.Turn key on ,bike not running.Get 0 V with TPS disconnected and see volts go up and down as I turn the female thingie under TPS cover.Seems like that if I wanted to adjust ,it I would have to have TPS housing connected and adjust RHTstp screw which would move female TPS thingie changing voltage.

What am I missing,not understanding?

2)Do I want 150mv with key on?Or the 500-525 or is that at idle?

Thanks,

Michael

[Guest ratchethack]

Michael, I don't quite follow you here. I can't tell if you've disconnected the TPS from the bike?? You need to have the 3-pin connector at the TPS connected to the harness with key in ON position, not running! Notice the slotted holes in the TPS under the adjustment screws. The TPS is left in place and turned within the small arc limited by the length of these slots for adjustment. Do not remove the screws from the TPS to adjust it, just loosen them. The TPS must be on the bike to adjust it so it can be located properly by the closed throttle plate! Only take the screws out if you're going to take the TPS off to clean out corrosion underneath it as I suggested earlier.

 

If you've done the above and are getting no voltage reading, your paper clips are not making correct contact with the leads in the connector. Sometimes you need to move them around a little so both get good contact at the same time.

 

Hope this helps.

[mznyc]

I put my thinking cap on,I thought what the heck I haven't used it all day I'll give it a try,and voila,I figured it out .I did have the connector on and adjusted to 150mv or as close as I could get @ 146mv,key on,motor Not running.No shite it's sensative!, like a woman after changing the channel on her while watching Sleepless In Seattle.

Do I want 150 or 525?Still fuzzy if those readings are running/not running,idle/higher RPM.

 

Thanks,

Michael

[Guest ratchethack]

Michael, you want 150 mV with TBs disconnected, idle advance disconnected, throttle screw backed out, and throttle plate completely closed.

 

The 500-525 mV read is for TBs connected at a idle setting that will give 1100 +/- 50 RPM.

 

Not running.

[raz]

I put my thinking cap on,I thought what the heck I haven't used it all day I'll give it a try,and voila,I figured it out .I did have the connector on and adjusted to 150mv or as close as I could get @ 146mv,key on,motor Not running.No shite it's sensative!, like a woman after changing the channel on her while watching Sleepless In Seattle.

Do I want 150 or 525?Still fuzzy if those readings are running/not running,idle/higher RPM.

 

Thanks,

Michael

I'll rephrase it again just to make it hard for you

 

If you diconnect linkage, back out throttle stop and relax the fast idle lever, it's 150 mV. If you have linkage connected and throttle stops at a healthy idle, that same TPS position should give about 500 mV since the throttle has moved, not the TPS housing.

 

So either you know your throttle stops are good and just adjust the TPS to ~500 mV and then your done.

 

Or you tear the linkage and back out the stops and adjust TPS to ~150 mV. Then you'll have to find out the throttle stop. One way to do that is using (not adjusting) the TPS. See the difference?

[mznyc]

Got it guys .

Working on the TB's now.In a cool down period.It's the easiest thing to understand and the hardest of all the tune-up prods ,gettin that idle/balance right.

Thanks,hopefully I'll have it sorted tonight if not tomorrow.

PS Took it for the TBB warm-up ride, Nice tappy sound with those euro spec clearances!

[mznyc]

OK Throttle Balance question:I was able to get both sides balanced and idle at about 1050rpm but at that point I lost throttle response.Give it even just a small amount of throttle and the motor would want to die.Where should I look.I backed out air bypass screws one turn out from closed,should I knock them down a 1/2 turn?Lost daylight so I'll have to contimue tomorrow,so if you have any suggestions I'll try them manana and let cha know what happens.

Thanks,

Michael

[Guest ratchethack]

Michael, y'er makin' us work, but I reckon your tenacity is admirable. . .

 

I gotta like that.

 

Sorry, can't imagine wot you're describing now, however. If you didn't have any off-idle motor death before, there's nothing that could happen (under normal conditions!) during the balancing procedure that could cause these symptoms that I know of. Sounds like symptoms of something completely unrelated to TB balancing. Wot else have you been doing to it, my friend??

 

BTW, Part II of balancing the TBs at idle is making equally sure they're balanced at 2500-3000 RPM. You shouldn't neglect this part. If it looks like there's a trade-off where both idle and 2500-3000 RPM can't both be balanced at the same time, strike a compromise halfway between with the adjustment knob.

 

Good luck.

[dlaing]

OK Throttle Balance question:I was able to get both sides balanced and idle at about 1050rpm but at that point I lost throttle response.Give it even just a small amount of throttle and the motor would want to die.Where should I look.I backed out air bypass screws one turn out from closed,should I knock them down a 1/2 turn?Lost daylight so I'll have to contimue tomorrow,so if you have any suggestions I'll try them manana and let cha know what happens.

Thanks,

Michael

Did you reconnect the linkage?

If so, the only thing I can think of is that either

the TPS voltage slipped (It should read between 475 and 525 mV),

or you messed up on the valve adjustment,

or you failed to connect one of the spark plug leads(least likely).

So check the spark plug wire connection first, because it is easiest,

then TPS voltage second, I think it is most likely problem, if fine,

then check the valve adjustment with the engine cold.

 

Oh and documentation seems to vary on the air screws being 1/2 or 1 full turn.

I am not sure which is right, but I seem to get the bike running better with them further out.

[mznyc]

Ding,ding,ding,ding,...dlaing your the winner!I forgot to re-attach linkage

Got TPS readings good and running nicely,

Hmm it's 80 perfect sunny day here in the Catskills,..take a test ride or work around the house ,what to do what to do?

Give you an update when I get back!!

Thanks again to especially to you RH cant tell you how helpfull youv'e been.Hopefully it will only be tweaking from here on out.I'm going to write up an article with pics and run it by you when I do for your input.

[Guest ratchethack]

Ding,ding,ding,ding,...dlaing your the winner!I forgot to re-attach linkage

Got TPS readings good and running nicely,

Hmm it's 80 perfect sunny day here in the Catskills,..take a test ride or work around the house ,what to do what to do?

Give you an update when I get back!!

Thanks again to especially to you RH cant tell you how helpfull youv'e been.Hopefully it will only be tweaking from here on out.I'm going to write up an article with pics and run it by you when I do for your input.

Por nada, mi compadre.

 

Glad to hear of your success. Persistence pays off.

 

Hmmm. How're you fixin' those rocker shafts in there lately??

 

After thinking about it, I reckon I'd likely drill & tap 'em the next larger size and be done with it in a few minutes.

[mznyc]

Just got back from my ,3+ hr test ride ,and the results are in.

Bike runs as good or better than before I screwed with the adjustments when I had little clue as to what I was doing.This started with a TB boot cracked and I tried to fix it by playing with the linkage and TS screws.

The bike runs as smooth as before with less pinging but still had a few instances under hard throttle.It is also burbling(not quite what I would call backfiring) under decel.didn't do it before,not bad but I'll have to tweak to get it right.What should I look at to eliminate that.Is it just getting a better balance or is there a specific adjustment that may help?

RH Wish I could put the Scura in the overhead,as I'll be in San Diego in a couple a weeks for work.

The RA bolts stripped but the shaft threads look fine.I had a pile of bolts from a wrecked V11 and found a couple that were the same size,different heads though,so I'll replace them with originals on my next parts order.

On the the oil change,.........