CO

[Guest DOUGDANGER]

HI GUYS

WELL HERE'S MY DILEMMA BALANCED MY THROTTLE BODIES, SET MY IDLE, SET TPS 500mv. OK NOW LET'S CHECK THE CO, USED FRIENDS VERY EXPENSIVE ANALYZER. THE CO WAS 7+% SNIFFED BOTH SIDES JUST ABOUT EQUAL. 3 TO 3.5 WOULD BE NICE. I DON'T HAVE A AXONE 2000, SO DOES ANYBODY MAKE SOFTWARE TO CHANGE THIS SETTING THAT COULD BE USED ON A LAPTOP OR A PDA. OR IF ALL ELSE FAILS A HONEST AND COMPETENT SHOP. I'M IN WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS AREA.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

 

PS MARSH MOTORS WILL BE MISSED

NEVER MEET ERIC BUT THEY SAID HE WAS A GOOD GUY

[dlaing]

Opinions vary, so don't trust me I am sure others will give you good information, but here is my opinon:

I don't like relying strictly on just the 500mv at idle technique.

Many people get great results relying on it, but I don't trust relying just on the idle reading, except for periodic checking of whether or not it needs adjusting.

I set mine with linkage removed and right TB set screw and choke backed out, and then I confirm everything by trying to get an idle that results in about 500mv.

If my TPS departs from the ~500mv, I know something is wrong and then can re-tune.

So, it certainly is a useful indicator and target, but relying on it to set the TPS is kind of like building the second floor before you are sure you have a foundation.

How far out are your air bypass screw? If it is far off from spec, it can throw off the mapping, and certainly the CO.

What did you set the valve tappet clearance to? Again, that effects idle speed and therefore the mapping if relying on 500mv idle TPS.

Also, relying on the Veglia Tachometer for idle speed may or may not be reliable.

 

http://www.guzzitech.com sells the TechnoResearch software that can adjust the CO trim for much less than the cost of Axeone.

They have several products.

The Motorbike Diagnostic software sets the CO and does other ECU diagnostics.

The Direct Link allows you to remap the ECU.

Either will give you a digital read out of the RPM.

 

I use TuneBoy TuneEdit, which is similar to the Direct Link. Direct Link was not available when I got the TuneBoy.

[Guest DOUGDANGER]

Opinions vary, so don't trust me I am sure others will give you good information, but here is my opinon:

I don't like relying strictly on just the 500mv at idle technique.

Many people get great results relying on it, but I don't trust relying just on the idle reading, except for periodic checking of whether or not it needs adjusting.

I set mine with linkage removed and right TB set screw and choke backed out, and then I confirm everything by trying to get an idle that results in about 500mv.

If my TPS departs from the ~500mv, I know something is wrong and then can re-tune.

So, it certainly is a useful indicator and target, but relying on it to set the TPS is kind of like building the second floor before you are sure you have a foundation.

How far out are your air bypass screw? If it is far off from spec, it can throw off the mapping, and certainly the CO.

What did you set the valve tappet clearance to? Again, that effects idle speed and therefore the mapping if relying on 500mv idle TPS.

Also, relying on the Veglia Tachometer for idle speed may or may not be reliable.

 

http://www.guzzitech.com sells the TechnoResearch software that can adjust the CO trim for much less than the cost of Axeone.

 

THANKS VALVES .006 / .008 I SET TPS WITH THE MOTOR NOT RUNNING JUST WITH KEY ON AND KILL SWITCH OFF, THE SETTING BEFORE I CHANGED IT WAS 438mv. so when I checked CO before adjusting it was 860+% after changing TPS setting TO 500mv it went down about 1.25%. I ALSO USED A QUALITY TACH SETUP SET AT 2800RPM'S WHEN I CHECKED IT .I DON'T THINK THIS BIKE WAS EVER SETUP WHEN IT WAS SOLD, BOUGHT THE BIKE IN DECEMBER 06 FORM A FRIEND. I HAD NEVER RIDDEN ONE SO I HAD NOTHING TO COMPARE IT TO i THOUGHT IT RAN OK BUT WHEN I STARTED CHECKING THING I COULD SEE THINKS WERE A LITTLE OUT OF WHACK. NO WONDER THE GAS MILAGE SUCKED.

tHANKS dOUG

 

They have several products.

The Motorbike Diagnostic software sets the CO and does other ECU diagnostics.

The Direct Link allows you to remap the ECU.

Either will give you a digital read out of the RPM.

 

I use TuneBoy TuneEdit, which is similar to the Direct Link. Direct Link was not available when I got the TuneBoy.

[dlaing]

THANKS VALVES .006 / .008 I SET TPS WITH THE MOTOR NOT RUNNING JUST WITH KEY ON AND KILL SWITCH OFF, THE SETTING BEFORE I CHANGED IT WAS 438mv. so when I checked CO before adjusting it was 860+% after changing TPS setting TO 500mv it went down about 1.25%. I ALSO USED A QUALITY TACH SETUP SET AT 2800RPM'S WHEN I CHECKED IT .I DON'T THINK THIS BIKE WAS EVER SETUP WHEN IT WAS SOLD, BOUGHT THE BIKE IN DECEMBER 06 FORM A FRIEND. I HAD NEVER RIDDEN ONE SO I HAD NOTHING TO COMPARE IT TO i THOUGHT IT RAN OK BUT WHEN I STARTED CHECKING THING I COULD SEE THINKS WERE A LITTLE OUT OF WHACK. NO WONDER THE GAS MILAGE SUCKED.

tHANKS dOUG

Interesting. I would have thought raising TPS Voltage would have increased the CO.

Shows what I know

It appears the valves are adjusted properly, so at this point I would suspect either the air screws are less than the recommended half turn out, or the ECU had the trim adjusted too rich, possibly as over compensation for the government inspired lean emission settings.

I would check the air screws, and if they are fine and you can't get the CO down to 5% within 1 full turn out, I might suspect the software controlled trim.

Although I wonder if 7+% CO is really all that bad

How is the idling at various temperatures?

Of course a less than perfect sensor could also be causing the rich running.

There was an interesting recent thread about getting the engine temperature sensor to conduct more of the cylinder head heat to the tip of the sensor, by adding thermal grease or silicone oil to the sensor housing.

If you plan on keeping this bike for life and doing the work on it yourself, I think the techno research motorbike or vehicle diagnostic software is smart invesment.

[dlaing]

Oh and I forgot the Motorbike Diagnostic Scan Tool was renamed Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool.

The link for info on it is here

http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-VDSTS.html $199++

For the Direct Link software, go here

http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-DirectLink.html $199++

I wonder if you can get a discount if you order both?

If I had to choose one, I would get the Direct link, although it can't adjust the trim you can remap fuel and ignition at idle and everywhere else.

[Guest Nogbad]

At idle you have the minimum fuel / air volume, the biggest potential for errors and the situation where it least matters all together.

 

The important analysis is whatever you get under normal full and part load conditions, and you need a dyno session to find that out.

 

If the bike is running well, and the fuel mileage is reasonably ok compared with other V11s, there is nothing to worry about.

 

Lastly, the bike needs to idle ok under a wide range of conditions, like high temperature, low temperature and high and low humidity. For this reason idle settings are often mapped a bit rich to ensure that the bike doesn't stall under adverse conditions.

[Guest DOUGDANGER]

Oh and I forgot the Motorbike Diagnostic Scan Tool was renamed Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool.

The link for info on it is here

http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-VDSTS.html $199++

For the Direct Link software, go here

http://www.guzzitech.com/store/TR-DirectLink.html $199++

I wonder if you can get a discount if you order both?

If I had to choose one, I would get the Direct link, although it can't adjust the trim you can remap fuel and ignition at idle and everywhere else.

 

 

I HAVE THE AIR SCREWS SET AT ONE FULLTURN

 

At idle you have the minimum fuel / air volume, the biggest potential for errors and the situation where it least matters all together.

 

The important analysis is whatever you get under normal full and part load conditions, and you need a dyno session to find that out.

 

If the bike is running well, and the fuel mileage is reasonably ok compared with other V11s, there is nothing to worry about.

 

Lastly, the bike needs to idle ok under a wide range of conditions, like high temperature, low temperature and high and low humidity. For this reason idle settings are often mapped a bit rich to ensure that the bike doesn't stall under adverse conditions.

 

 

 

 

I THINK AT ANY CONDITION 8% CO IS TOO HIGH ON A STOCK BIKE, ALSO IT WAS ON A WARM BIKE ON A

FAIRLY NICE DAY 78 DEGREES .

THANKS DOUG

[dlaing]

I HAVE THE AIR SCREWS SET AT ONE FULLTURN

I THINK AT ANY CONDITION 8% CO IS TOO HIGH ON A STOCK BIKE, ALSO IT WAS ON A WARM BIKE ON A

FAIRLY NICE DAY 78 DEGREES .

THANKS DOUG

 

As Nog indicates, if it is running fine, you might not want to mess with it.

If not content, make sure your spark plugs are good, and the recommended heat range.

I would start the tuning process all over disconnecting the linkage and set screws, read the TPS voltage so that you go back to what you had, then adjust it to 150mV, and re-tune it with your choice of instructions

 

Lex' valve adjustment instructions.

http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...alvesTorque.htm

 

Iain O's TB instructions

http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle...zi/balance.html

 

Carl Allison and Will Creedon's

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/tps/TPS.html

 

MPH's

http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/Tech..html

 

Jeff Brannen's

http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

 

The Workshop Manual is TERRIBLE for setting up the fuel injection.

 

Doing the process over could get you where you need to be, but if not, consider the software.

It will only hurt your pocket book to get the software, but it will give you peace of mind that the trim is set right, and you will be able to diagnose things in the future with fewer hanging doubts. But