Now I've done it . . .

[Guest ratchethack]

The preload is adjustable remotely. But only 8mm can be added. Nothing can be taken away with out ptting the thing in a spring compressor.

Now I got it, thanks. The 8 mm vs. 18 mm threw me a bit.

 

It's an entirely subjective thing, of course. Personally, I'm much more comfortable over the roads I ride with a little more than double the unladen sag than this, and nearly the same laden sag you're getting.

 

BAA, TJM & YMMV

[andy york]

Just for the record.. Docc has the last of the Ohlins rear...

part # mg-127....Go ahead ..call your sources....NLA !!!

Thats not to say they can't be had from the place in Germany or where ever...

Yes it is fully adjustable

Yes it has remote preload adjustment

Yes if you want more spring preload than what it was setup with

or that you can get with the hydraulic preload adj...you have to pull the shock.

I was hoping that it would suck...or ride like a buckboard. then you could bring it

back and I could give you a refund

 

andy

[docc]

I do have a special on a 'rebuildable' Sachs-Boge. Fits the V11 like a glove. Well, maybe more like a mitten or a big fuzzy sock.

[Paul Minnaert]

well I think your spring is to harsh. I have a -26 or 85 N/mm sping, and do trackdays with it, never had the idea it bottoms out. Others that sat on it found it soft. With guzzi everyone is used to a non suspended rear end. Only when ridden with two, often a harder spring might be needed.

[docc]

Certainly, the 8mm static would suggest the spring is too much.

 

I suspect the 1.0 springs for the front are also on the stiff side for my weight. We'll see what the sag shows . . .

[dlaing]

Certainly, the 8mm static would suggest the spring is too much.

 

I suspect the 1.0 springs for the front are also on the stiff side for my weight. We'll see what the sag shows . . .

The static sag is not really an indicator of firmness.

The difference between the static and laden sag is probably the most informative indicator of whether your spring is firm enough. Keep in mind for heavier riders the difference between static and laden should be higher to reach the same goal

Your 8mm and 29mm differ by 21mm. I think this is just about ideal for the real world.

By comparison my 5-6mm and 31mm differ by 25-26mm which I think is too soft, and bottoming does occur fairly regularly, although it is much better than when I had my Sachs shock which probably had a difference of about 30mm and bottomed out very frequently. I kept the static sag at about 2mm with the Sachs

I think Paul's bike is lighter than ours. Maybe that is the reason his 1091-26 works well for him.

Ratchet said, "It's an entirely subjective thing, of course. Personally, I'm much more comfortable over the roads I ride with a little more than double the unladen sag than this, and nearly the same laden sag you're getting"

If I interpret Ratchet correctly his bike has about 17-18mm static and about 28-30mm laden, which is a difference of somewhere between 10 and 13mm which is in my opinion probably a bit too firm, but possibly not if he rides very forward in the saddle. However, with that firm of a spring he can probably get away with lots of static sag without bottoming out. Combined with a Wilbers shock that rides higher than the Sachs, Ratchet's bike should handle very well. But it won't be as comfortable and compliant as your Ohlins.

I think you will find that you get used to the increased ride height..

[docc]

Now I wish I'd measured the same points with the Sachs so I knew eactly how much higher it is. I was too excited and skipped that step.

 

I did measure the shock length difference after it would not go in without dropping the swingarm further. A 6mm longer shock would theoretically change the ride height how much?

[Guest ratchethack]

A 6mm longer shock would theoretically change the ride height how much?

12mm.

 

You asked "theoretical". This is as exact as you need, since the swingarm critical dimensions are very very close to a 1:2 ratio.

 

I spec'd my custom shock for +5 mm over stock. It makes a noticeable difference. In my case, the +10 mm ride height and steering head geometry change is worth nearly a half degree steeper rake change. Keeps the hard parts off the tarmac and gives full access to the edges of tire tread, too.

 

I found that dropping the forks back down in the triples by 10 mm brought me back to the original geometry I had before installing the custom shock. Just somethin' to be mindful of, it'd have the equivalent effect in your situation.

[dlaing]

Published specs indicate the Ohlins has an eye to eye length of 286 and a stroke of 70mm.

I initially got information somewhere that the Sachs was 276mm, but when Ratchet said it was 280mm I went to the garage and measured my Sachs at about 278mm (and easily could have been off by a few mm, as it is difficult to measure without proper tools. If I get some 12mm bolts I could probably put them through and measure.)

But the point is, I think your shock is more than 5mm longer than the Sachs.

Your initial impression is that it rides better and handles better, so why go lower?

Try giving it 4mm more preload and go for a ride. If it really makes it worse than yah, you might want to go lower, or do as Ratchet suggested and raise the front...giving the sidestand more clearance But I would not raise it beyond the forks dropping below flush with the upper triple clamp.

If touching your toes to the ground is the problem, then yah, it is not going to settle lower, so take 5-10mm off the preload (giving about 10-20mm lower saddle height

But the fork springs will be here soon, right?

Keep in mind stiffer fork springs will change the ride height in the front.

Be sure to measure your front sag before changing the spring

[docc]

The springs are here. Traxxion had them here in a couple days.

 

I do have my forks up 9mm to correct the ride height after putting the longer spacers over the stock springs.

 

I had figured on going back to the original fork height with the new springs.

 

Now to try and remember to take measurements on the front before I take it apart . . .

[Bill Hagan]

Great news, docc.

 

I had the Ohlins-for-Sachs swap on the Ballabio. Incredible, write-home change.

 

You are now just what I need to come help me swap out the too-soft spring on my Norge for a new, stiffer one. Beer (Italian, of course) provided!

 

Bill

 

P.S. Sadly, sold the Ballabio yesterday; buyer takes delivery tomorrow. I think I'll have Kathi handle the transaction. Makes me sad thinking about it.

[Tom M]

Certainly, the 8mm static would suggest the spring is too much.

 

I suspect the 1.0 springs for the front are also on the stiff side for my weight. We'll see what the sag shows . . .

 

Hi Doc,

FWIW TD recommended 1.1 Kg/mm springs for my approximately 240 lb geared up weight. They were awesome on big bumps but I thought they were a little too firm for normal riding, even with very little preload. I couldn't quite get the sags within range either so I called them and they offered to send me a pair of 1.0 springs to try at no charge. I asked them to just send me just one 1.0 to give me a 1.05 effective rate. That worked out great once I got the preload spacers right. Although they never asked for it I sent the extra 1.1 spring back to them.

 

I found them an excellent company to deal with.

 

I used 125/150 cartridge fluid (7.5 wt), wish I gone with straight 5 wt since I have very little compression damping dialed in and rebound is less than halfway in too. Any more compression and it feels a bit harsh. I'm thinking that 5 wt would make the ride a little plusher, not that it's bad now. I started out with 100mm oil height, have taken some out to increase travel, might go back in and take out more since I don't think I'm quite getting full travel yet. If I was to do it again I'd start at 105-110mm oil height.

 

Also FWIW, I have a 1091-34 10.0 Nm spring on my rear Ohlins. I have no complaints, it seems right for my weight. It balances nicely with the 1.05 forks for me.

 

Good luck with your suspension dialing!

 

PS make sure you put the blue nuts on the right way at the right height. Somebody on this forum put them on upside down and his damping adjusters stopped working.

[docc]

Bill, I'd feel sorry for you if I hadn't seen you dancing the NOR-ge through the mountains. Are you changing your avatar?

 

I hope you'll direct the Ballabio's new owner to the forum. I thought everyone with a V11 knew about this place until we ran into the guy with the silver Sport at Deal's Gap, Reiner Roemer. Did he say it took him two years to find someone to fix his transmission? We're pretty lucky here, I think.

 

Tom, so the cartridge fluid comes in different weights? What is the "125/150" designation?

 

And you would say the larger air gap is more "compliant?"

[Tom M]

Tom, so the cartridge fluid comes in different weights? What is the "125/150" designation?

 

And you would say the larger air gap is more "compliant?"

 

Yes the fluid comes in different weights. Cartridge fork fluid is supposed to be better than regular fork oil according to the manufacturers 85/150 = 5 weight, 125/150 = 7.5 wt. I don't really know what those xx/yy numbers represent.

 

As I understand it air gap will only effect "compliance" at the very end of the fork stroke. See Ratchethack's links in one of the many suspension threads for a better description of what the air gap does and how to adjust it.

 

During my re-spring I assembled the forks without the springs just to see where they bottomed out. I found the casting at the bottom of the fork slider will contact the stanchion at the end of the stroke. When I got back on the road I put a cable tie on the fork slider to see if I could bottom the fork out with the new springs/spacers/fluid. I wasn't even close with the air gap set at 100mm. I took some fluid out and I'm closer to using all the available travel now, but still not perfect.

 

Something else that I discovered while messing with my fork was the first time that I opened the forks up after the spring change the oil height on the rebound side was noticeably lower than the compression side even though I was very careful when I set the heights. There must have been air trapped in the rebound cartridge even though I pumped it a lot to try and purge all the air. When I posted this in one of the fork threads here I believe a few others said they saw the same thing when they did their forks.

 

I hope this helps...

 

 

EDIT: I used 125/150 Maxima Racing Fork Fluid (7.5 wt). I might try their 85/150 5wt next time I change the fork oil.

http://www.maximausa.com/products/suspension/forkfluid.asp

[docc]