Any Rear Wheel Off ideas with no stands?

[Guest GuzziLee]

Well here it is my first chance to take off the rear wheel of my 04 Billabio because of a damn flat. Oh yes, of course no center stand or work stand yet and I want to keep riding. What is the best way (even barnyard) to get the rear wheel off know.

Thanks

[Murray]

Trolly jack with a lump of wood under the sump to steady the bike as far aft as possible. Couple of tie down straps over a rafter onto ethier the pillion peg hangers or maybe onto the rear subframe with the seat removed (I don't have a V11 so exact instructions are a little diffcult) to pivot it onto the front wheel. Best to have two people to set it up.

 

For next time

Buy a !@#$ing stand.

[O2 V11]

I don't own any stands myself so I have improvised. I have a block of wood roughly profiled to match the bottom of the sump. To remove the rear wheel I lift the bike with a trolley jack under the front of the sump.Then place my block under the rear of the sump and lower the bike down. This leaves the rear wheel off the ground. To remove the front wheel it is the opposite, lift at the rear and block up the front of the sump. Once I have either end suspended I then tie the handlebars to the rafters to give extra stability.

When removing my rear wheel I remove the brake caliper and tie it out of the way and remove the bevel drive with the wheel. I find the wheel easier to install this way but others may have differing thoughts on this. With your wheel off it is a good time to have a look at greasing your driveshaft.

Rob

[DVH]

pair of axle stands if available under the pok chops. put something under the chops so that they don't become scratched whilst on the stands, I have found it very stable in use

[VA Sean]

You can be really creative like rocker59 and do this:

 

 

[twhitaker]

While Rockers method worked I can't for the life of me figure out why the front end did not tip over. I would do something with ropes from the handlebars to steady it.

[Murray]

The straps to the pannier racks would prevent any tipping action, there are three straps on the rear.

[Richard Z]

You can be really creative like rocker59 and do this:

 

 

 

All I have to say is WOW! Just WOW!

 

(Insert best Arkansas joke here)

 

Fortunately I am blessed with a lift and a padock stand. I have the Lockhart phillips stand. Very nice welded construction. You might look into for future repairs.

 

Richard Z.

[rocker59]

Just another good reason to keep a couple of tiedowns in your saddlebags...

 

I use Pit Bull stands when at home...

[Guest GuzziLee]

You can be really creative like rocker59 and do this:

 

 

 

I Love it the new V11 hybrid Maple Tree!

Must be interesting in the begining of the process keeping the front straight.

I am working on a large wood clamp idea attached to wood framing to keep the front wheel down when lifting from the bottom of the sump as the V11 seems to be heavier to the rear than the front.

[Guest GuzziLee]

Trolly jack with a lump of wood under the sump to steady the bike as far aft as possible. Couple of tie down straps over a rafter onto ethier the pillion peg hangers or maybe onto the rear subframe with the seat removed (I don't have a V11 so exact instructions are a little diffcult) to pivot it onto the front wheel. Best to have two people to set it up.

 

For next time

Buy a !@#$ing stand.

Thanks

Odered a center stand today from Moto International as it looks like I am going to need the ability to get the weight off the rear anyway.

 

 

I don't own any stands myself so I have improvised. I have a block of wood roughly profiled to match the bottom of the sump. To remove the rear wheel I lift the bike with a trolley jack under the front of the sump.Then place my block under the rear of the sump and lower the bike down. This leaves the rear wheel off the ground. To remove the front wheel it is the opposite, lift at the rear and block up the front of the sump. Once I have either end suspended I then tie the handlebars to the rafters to give extra stability.

When removing my rear wheel I remove the brake caliper and tie it out of the way and remove the bevel drive with the wheel. I find the wheel easier to install this way but others may have differing thoughts on this. With your wheel off it is a good time to have a look at greasing your driveshaft.

Rob

Rob,

Even though I ordered the center stand, I just found the culpert; a 1 1/2" siding nail in the almost new Metzler and I am considering a plug to save a little work until I need a new tire. Any experience with plugs?

Also while on the subject of that new happy exposed drive shaft. What is the best way to get to that front grease fitting??

Thanks

Lee

[docc]

Ahh, yes, Glasshopper, the front glease fitting . . .

[O2 V11]

www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7612&hl=

 

Lee, have a look through this earlier posting on the subject of that front grease nipple. It can be done, it's not easy but it is not impossible to do. I have no experience with tyre plugs but I'm sure someone in the business would be able to give you good advice.

 

Rob

[Guest ratchethack]

. . .I just found the culpert; a 1 1/2" siding nail in the almost new Metzler and I am considering a plug to save a little work until I need a new tire. Any experience with plugs?. . .

Lee, every rider I know of (I ride both a tubed tire big trailie and the tubeless Guzzi meself) considers the chief advantage of tubless tires to be the fact that they can be relatively quickly and easily plugged on the roadside without removing the tire or wheel, allowing the rider to continue on his way. Tubeless tire roadside puncture repair has been somewhat of a Major Revolution in motorcycling. I've plugged tubless tires more times than I can remember (or necessarily want to. . .)

 

Unless you simply prefer the time lost and/or expense of the "Cell Phone and Tow Truck/Best Pal with Truck and/or Trailer Emergency Plan", I strongly recommend that no rider ever be caught on the road without a plug kit and C02 cartridge inflator with a half-dozen cartridges. The directions that come with them are easy enough, practical, and dependable enough -- even at night, even in the rain, even at night in the rain. . . . -- Oh, yes indeed I have. . .

 

There are many riders who still say that a plugged tire is only good enough to get you home, and that once plugged, a new tire is mandatory asap. Now this is just me, but I b'lieve those days came and went with bias ply tires. I've found from repeat experience that with today's steel radials, a nail-sized puncture is generally safely repairable with a plug for the normal life of the tire, even in the center of tread. I've only had as many as 2 at a time, but I know a guy with a LeMans who put many thousands of miles on a tire with 4 plugs with no problem (and at speeds that are, shall we say, considerably North of lawful limits by surprising margins ). There are those who will insist that this is not safe, and I reckon I'd probably change a tire with healthy remaining tread at the 3rd plug, but to each his own. I do keep my speed under 90 mph with a plug -- just for insurance purposes.

 

I wouldn't ride around the corner without a plug kit and C02 inflator on the Guzzi.

 

BAA, TJM & YMMV

[Guest GuzziLee]

Lee, every rider I know of (I ride both a tubed tire big trailie and the tubeless Guzzi meself) considers the chief advantage of tubless tires to be the fact that they can be relatively quickly and easily plugged on the roadside without removing the tire or wheel, allowing the rider to continue on his way. Tubeless tire roadside puncture repair has been somewhat of a Major Revolution in motorcycling. I've plugged tubless tires more times than I can remember (or necessarily want to. . .)

 

Unless you simply prefer the time lost and/or expense of the "Cell Phone and Tow Truck/Best Pal with Truck and/or Trailer Emergency Plan", I strongly recommend that no rider ever be caught on the road without a plug kit and C02 cartridge inflator with a half-dozen cartridges. The directions that come with them are easy enough, practical, and dependable enough -- even at night, even in the rain, even at night in the rain. . . . -- Oh, yes indeed I have. . .

 

There are many riders who still say that a plugged tire is only good enough to get you home, and that once plugged, a new tire is mandatory asap. Now this is just me, but I b'lieve those days came and went with bias ply tires. I've found from repeat experience that with today's steel radials, a nail-sized puncture is generally safely repairable with a plug for the normal life of the tire, even in the center of tread. I've only had as many as 2 at a time, but I know a guy with a LeMans who put many thousands of miles on a tire with 4 plugs with no problem (and at speeds that are, shall we say, considerably North of lawful limits by surprising margins ). There are those who will insist that this is not safe, and I reckon I'd probably change a tire with healthy remaining tread at the 3rd plug, but to each his own. I do keep my speed under 90 mph with a plug -- just for insurance purposes.

 

I wouldn't ride around the corner without a plug kit and C02 inflator on the Guzzi.

 

BAA, TJM & YMMV

RBack,

I am with you on the Tubeless Plugs. I love technology and it is actually rather exciting having a flat for once and not having to pull the wheel after years of tubes and their problems. Although the flat on a Norton Combat Commando was a good one and a big ouch, Then there was the roofing nail in the rear tire on my Laverda, oops regressing

Did a lot of searching and over on the BMW website found that they all liked this Progressive Suspension Kit from www.mawonline.com. It is an hour glass shaped plug that one guy got over 10,000 miles after the plug. He then pulled the tire off and was able to cut the tire around the plug but not the plug as it became part of the rubber. Screw this temporary warning I am seeing every where. I ordered one as there is only about 800 miles on this Metzler. What is a hoot is the nail head that is in my tire is worn down on one side after some pretty agressive riding after I musta picked it up. I guess the wheel spinning helped keep air in it.....YIKES

 

Lee, every rider I know of (I ride both a tubed tire big trailie and the tubeless Guzzi meself) considers the chief advantage of tubless tires to be the fact that they can be relatively quickly and easily plugged on the roadside without removing the tire or wheel, allowing the rider to continue on his way. Tubeless tire roadside puncture repair has been somewhat of a Major Revolution in motorcycling. I've plugged tubless tires more times than I can remember (or necessarily want to. . .)

 

Unless you simply prefer the time lost and/or expense of the "Cell Phone and Tow Truck/Best Pal with Truck and/or Trailer Emergency Plan", I strongly recommend that no rider ever be caught on the road without a plug kit and C02 cartridge inflator with a half-dozen cartridges. The directions that come with them are easy enough, practical, and dependable enough -- even at night, even in the rain, even at night in the rain. . . . -- Oh, yes indeed I have. . .

 

There are many riders who still say that a plugged tire is only good enough to get you home, and that once plugged, a new tire is mandatory asap. Now this is just me, but I b'lieve those days came and went with bias ply tires. I've found from repeat experience that with today's steel radials, a nail-sized puncture is generally safely repairable with a plug for the normal life of the tire, even in the center of tread. I've only had as many as 2 at a time, but I know a guy with a LeMans who put many thousands of miles on a tire with 4 plugs with no problem (and at speeds that are, shall we say, considerably North of lawful limits by surprising margins ). There are those who will insist that this is not safe, and I reckon I'd probably change a tire with healthy remaining tread at the 3rd plug, but to each his own. I do keep my speed under 90 mph with a plug -- just for insurance purposes.

 

I wouldn't ride around the corner without a plug kit and C02 inflator on the Guzzi.

 

BAA, TJM & YMMV

RHack,

I am with you on the Tubeless Plugs . I love technology and it is actually rather exciting having a flat for once and not having to pull the wheel after years of tubes and their problems. Although the flat on a Norton Combat Commando was a good one and a big ouch, Then there was the roofing nail in the rear tire on my Laverda, oops regressing

Did a lot of searching and over on the BMW website found that they all liked this Progressive Suspension Kit from www.mawonline.com. It is an hour glass shaped plug that one guy got over 10,000 miles after the plug. He then pulled the tire off and was able to cut the tire around the plug but not the plug as it became part of the rubber. Screw this temporary warning I am seeing every where. I ordered one as there is only about 800 miles on this Metzler. What is a hoot is the nail head that is in my tire is worn down on one side after some pretty agressive riding after I musta picked it up. I guess the wheel spinning helped keep air in it.YIKES