Brake lights are out

[mike wilson]

As for the teflon embedded lubricant, I imagine that would be about as good for your electrical connection as WD-40, but you are not spraying it there, right? I am not sure why Mike and Ratchet find it to be such a threat to your contacts when you are using it on the lever pivots.

 

The endless dialogue is usually due to people (including, most emphatically, myself) not explaining themselves clearly the first, second or third time.

 

Just to be clear: I think overuse (and that pretty much includes _all_ spray lubricants, etc) of lubricant combined with insufficient cleaning afterwards is the problem. Excess lubricant migrates (in many applications - I do not know about this specific instance) into the switch and causes contact damage. This accumulates until the switch fails. Grease is as much of a problem as spray lubricants if it is applied over generously. More is not always the best solution to a problem. Goes against the grain of the American Way Of Life™ but we all have our cross to bear.

 

There are two cures: firstly, do not overlubricate. This is much easier to type than do, in my experience. Secondly, source a better sealed switch.

[Guest ratchethack]

I once borrowed a car from a friend. When I returned it, I pointed out that there was a roadspeed-related vibration and that I suspected there was a problem with the (remember these?) propshaft. He said he would look at it that afternoon. A couple of hours later, I called round. Sure enough, it was up on ramps and there was a pair of legs sticking out. I heard "hiss, hiss" "hiss, hiss". He then shuffled out from underneath clutching a can of WD-40. _That's_ a believer.......

Sounds like another pilgrim drank the kool-aid, alright.

 

Now this is just me, but it looks like we might have another one here :

. . .my taillight went out many times and I kept reseating it and cleaning contacts, but it became a repetitive pain, so I bought a new taillight at the Harley dealer. . .

. . .I have had to replace both the front brake switch and the stop lamp.

I don't think overspray or seepage of WD40 at the lever pivots should cause switch failure.

As for the teflon embedded lubricant, I imagine that would be about as good for your electrical connection as WD-40, but you are not spraying it there, right? I am not sure why Mike and Ratchet find it to be such a threat to your contacts. . .

[dlaing]

The endless dialogue is usually due to people (including, most emphatically, myself) not explaining themselves clearly the first, second or third time.

I'd agree with that, and thanks for the clarification.

And then we have Ratchet who I have to go through endless point by point clarifications. So, I could not stay shut up...

No, I did not use WD40 on any electrical contact on my bike, and I did not use it on my bike until I saw the oxidation of the stainless steel. And then I sprayed the WD40 into a rag before rubbing away the tiny spot of rust.

More than 20 years ago I made the mistake of using it on electrical contacts, usually battery terminals, before learning the evils of WD40, and that I should only use silicone dielectric grease.

But then on this forum I learned that the insulating qualities of dielectric silicone can be too great and can cause contact problems, so since then I have been using a silver conductive paste.

Perhaps the insulating effective of the silicone caused my lamp to fail, and if I used some DeoxIT on it, the problem will go away.

Does deoxit protect and conduct like silver paste?

So far the silicone has not caused a problem on the new lamp. When I bought it I immediately put silicone on it, but not silver paste. But since then, I have been using the silver paste. I should probably open the lamp, and add silver paste.

I have put the paste on almost all the connectors, and so far, it has been fine.

If I can learn from this forum, that is a good thing.

Hopefully JRT will properly grease his lever pivots, and use silver conductive paste on all the contacts.

USE SPARINGLY WHERE IT MIGHT BRIDGE CONTACTS!!!!!!!!

But I don't think his TEFLON spray caused the problem, and I think the spray is good temporary lube....with less chance of losing that darn ball bearing that activates the switch.

[jrt]

Well, I've got the brake system back together and it all works fine- brake light is nice and bright. So...I guess the switches were bad after all. Without taking them apart (and I'm not going to), I can't say what caused their failure. I think there have been a number of very good suggestions made and I even used a couple of 'em.

 

OK, here's my admition of stupidity on putting it back together. I put the lightbulb back in, installed battery, etc. Put in a fuse, turned the key and the brake light is ON. Only I'm not applying the brake. Turn off the key, look over the wiring- it looks ok. Unplug the rear brake switch- didn't fix it. Unplug the front and it goes off. OK...pull the handle- I can't hear it click. So- I take the handle off because I thought I might adjust it. There's no adjustment on CRG levers. So I take the switch back out....and I installed it backwards.

It's a good opportunity to grease the pivot and so I do, reinstall everything and it works perfectly.

 

Thanks for ya'll's help.

[Guest ratchethack]

It's a good opportunity to grease the pivot and so I do, reinstall everything and it works perfectly.

Outstanding, Jason.