Making a Cushier Cush Drive

[docc]

I'd be interested in knowing how the 70's work out...have to do a major teardown this summer when too hot to ride.

 

Docc, did you find poly bushings for V11 somewhere?

 

The only custom bushings I've seen were Delrin and fitted to the torque arm of Andy York's well ridden 2002 LeMans. I was always hoping he'd make them largely available, but I do not believe he's currently in the bike business. Other than riding that LeMans all over the eastern US seaboard and all points west. He does jump in here from time to time, so maybe The Perfesser could shed some light on the Delrin bushing business!

 

I do recall he simply had them made to fit the torque arm by a local machine shop.

 

It has always fascinated me that the original rubber bushings appear to be captured by the fasteners which would impart some damping from the twisting of the rubber (and, perhaps, account for so many of them eating themselves up). I've long thought it would free the suspension movement to release the bushing to rotate freely.

 

Of course, these are in the Torque Arm, not the wedges of the cush drive.

[al_roethlisberger]

Any "new news" on the 70 or softer Urethane pucks that were mentioned a few posts back?

 

I'll likely be tearing into the cush drive this Spring.

 

Al

[al_roethlisberger]

 

 

In private email exchanges, Ratchet is off riding his now much happier V11 [see the thread on adapting the GM temp sensor for why it's running so much better in hot weather & traffic now...]

 

 

Anyone have a link to the thread with the GM sensor info? I did a quick search without success, although I do remember at least a couple contentious head-temp threads over time.

 

Thanks,

Al

[Dan M]

 

 

In private email exchanges, Ratchet is off riding his now much happier V11 [see the thread on adapting the GM temp sensor for why it's running so much better in hot weather & traffic now...]

 

 

Anyone have a link to the thread with the GM sensor info? I did a quick search without success, although I do remember at least a couple contentious head-temp threads over time.

 

Thanks,

Al

 

Hello Al,

Here's one of the threads that spiraled into oblivion:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14832&hl=temperature&st=0

 

The sensor in question was sourced from GM and was the air charge temp sensor for a '00 Pontiac Grand Am 4cyl.

I can find a part number for the sensor and pigtail in you are interested.

[al_roethlisberger]

 

 

In private email exchanges, Ratchet is off riding his now much happier V11 [see the thread on adapting the GM temp sensor for why it's running so much better in hot weather & traffic now...]

 

 

Anyone have a link to the thread with the GM sensor info? I did a quick search without success, although I do remember at least a couple contentious head-temp threads over time.

 

Thanks,

Al

 

Hello Al,

Here's one of the threads that spiraled into oblivion:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14832&hl=temperature&st=0

 

The sensor in question was sourced from GM and was the air charge temp sensor for a '00 Pontiac Grand Am 4cyl.

I can find a part number for the sensor and pigtail in you are interested.

 

 

Thank you, I would definitely like to put this on my list of Spring tune-ups. Just drop me a note, or better yet maybe post a new topic to the tech section with a subject like "GM Head Temp Sensor Details". Then anyone can find it and install it if they'd like to give it a go. I'm definitely game.

 

BTW, does the polarity of splicing the pigtail matter to the OEM harness matter?

 

 

I too have the recurring 3-4k hiccups and pinging when hot and so far no amount of tuning has fixed it, although to be fair I still have plenty of opportunities there too. But based on the reports of symptoms associated with this sensor question, I'm starting to feel confident that one of the solutions may be a good fix for my bike.

 

 

Al

[docc]

While this thread has devolved a bit between cush drives, torque arms, and temp sensors, here is the thread where I attempted to post the temp sensor results without the, um, drama: Engine Temperature Sensor

[Dan M]

 

 

In private email exchanges, Ratchet is off riding his now much happier V11 [see the thread on adapting the GM temp sensor for why it's running so much better in hot weather & traffic now...]

 

 

Anyone have a link to the thread with the GM sensor info? I did a quick search without success, although I do remember at least a couple contentious head-temp threads over time.

 

Thanks,

Al

 

Hello Al,

Here's one of the threads that spiraled into oblivion:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14832&hl=temperature&st=0

 

The sensor in question was sourced from GM and was the air charge temp sensor for a '00 Pontiac Grand Am 4cyl.

I can find a part number for the sensor and pigtail in you are interested.

 

 

Thank you, I would definitely like to put this on my list of Spring tune-ups. Just drop me a note, or better yet maybe post a new topic to the tech section with a subject like "GM Head Temp Sensor Details". Then anyone can find it and install it if they'd like to give it a go. I'm definitely game.

 

BTW, does the polarity of splicing the pigtail matter to the OEM harness matter?

 

 

I too have the recurring 3-4k hiccups and pinging when hot and so far no amount of tuning has fixed it, although to be fair I still have plenty of opportunities there too. But based on the reports of symptoms associated with this sensor question, I'm starting to feel confident that one of the solutions may be a good fix for my bike.

 

 

Al

 

No Al, polarity does not matter. The sensor is a thermistor.

[MotoKnee]

On 2/23/2011 at 8:28 PM, docc said:

All the urethane bushings I've bought were "stiffer" than the stock rubber components, both for suspension bushings and motor mounts.

 

I've got that whole Swiss cheese thing on my list of more things to do . . .

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing?  Is it still a thing?

Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not.

Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

 

 

[docc]

49 minutes ago, MotoKnee said:

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing?  Is it still a thing?

Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not.

Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

I did not. I bought the tool to take the core samples, but have not been back in there. I has simply cleaned it all and applied a silicone grease to the pucks.

If I knew then what I know now (IIKTWIKN ) I would have use Shin Etsu grease on the rubber.

[audiomick]

12 minutes ago, docc said:

.. I bought the tool ... but have not been back in there...

That's never happened to me.

[MotoKnee]

1 hour ago, docc said:

I did not. I bought the tool to take the core samples, but have not been back in there. I has simply cleaned it all and applied a silicone grease to the pucks.

If I knew then what I know now (IIKTWIKN ) I would have use Shin Etsu grease on the rubber.

Hmm I was going to use a generic silicone grease in my toolbox.  Mebbe I'll try to locate some of the magic stuff before putting my freshly drilled parts back in. Wheel will be off until I get the swingarm greased, transmission cover work done, and a few other rando projects.  Thx

[Pressureangle]

1 minute ago, MotoKnee said:

Hmm I was going to use a generic silicone grease in my toolbox.  Mebbe I'll try to locate some of the magic stuff before putting my freshly drilled parts back in. Wheel will be off until I get the swingarm greased, transmission cover work done, and a few other rando projects.  Thx

I used generic GE silicone grease and it's just fine. Somebody will have to make an argument that Japanese silicone is better than American before I go hunting to pay more. 

As stated upthread a decade and a half ago, just give them a very light coating or you'll wonder how long it will take before coming home with a clean wheel. 

The answer in my case was ~3k miles.

[MotoKnee]

56 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

I used generic GE silicone grease and it's just fine. Somebody will have to make an argument that Japanese silicone is better than American before I go hunting to pay more. 

As stated upthread a decade and a half ago, just give them a very light coating or you'll wonder how long it will take before coming home with a clean wheel. 

The answer in my case was ~3k miles.

I'm a big fan of using stuff that is already paid for. Did you do the swiss cheese or just a clean and lube?

[Lucky Phil]

5 hours ago, MotoKnee said:

Well, did you do the swiss cheese thing?  Is it still a thing?

Mine is disassembled and ready, just need to decide to do it, or not.

Was quite pleased with the condition of the coupler parts, no corrosion to speak of, and only had to axe murder one of the button head screws.

 

 

It's not and never was with anyone with any sense. Why the hell would you Swiss cheese the dampers? Or replace them with something else/softer? A slight smear of rubber grease to ease the assembly back together is all thats needed and then don't mess with it.

Phil

 

Edited December 10 by Lucky Phil

[MotoKnee]

1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:

It's not and never was with anyone with any sense. Why the hell would you Swiss cheese the dampers? Or replace them with something else/softer? A slight smear of rubber grease to ease the assembly back together is all thats needed and then don't mess with it.

Phil

 

15 years ago a few guys with some sense seemed to like the idea of a cushier cush drive. I wondered if the idea held up over time.  (Phil votes NAY)