Steering damper bleeding

[Ryland3210]

I wondered why the steering damper adjustment on my '04 Sport was frozen. I am the original owner and no one has worked on this since I purchased the bike. I discovered that the internal needle screw had not been screwed in all the way during assembly, or perhaps someone doing "research" out of curiousity at the dealer had looked inside and not known how to put it back together. The two spring loaded balls providing the detents for the needle had not been seated within the grooved bore, and were jamming up the works.

 

During disassembly, some of the oil leaked out. It was replaced, and the cylinder bled as well as could be done by moving it back and forth until no more bubbles came out.

 

I made up a tool to retain the balls within the needle during insertion, and it worked fine. Now the adjustment clicks and regulates as it should.

 

I notice two balls on the bottom of the housing exterior, and wonder if these provide some method of filling with oil or bleeding air out. It seems like there is still some air in there. Anyone know the bleeding procedure, and what these balls are for?

 

Any guidance will be really appreciated.

[dlaing]

I have no idea.

Unfortunately the manual mentions nothing about bleeding.

http://www.ohlins.com/Portals/0/documents/...s/07261-01A.pdf

But it does have nice pictures worth looking at.

[Ryland3210]

I have made up a tool to reassemble the needle valve. If anyone is interested, I can supply do it yourself instructions.

Cheers,

John

[docc]

These things are notorious for leaking. Having had it apart does it look like it can be resealed with conventional O-rings or such?

[Guest ratchethack]

This has nothing to do with John's situation, but to add to Docc's "notorious for leaking" comment:

 

Just an observation, but I've noticed that a great many riders don't use their steering dampers at all. They back off the adjustment knob until there's no damping and leave it there. I've also noticed that a great many riders have trouble with their dampers characterized by failed seals and leaking. Is there a correlation between the two groups of riders? I b'lieve so, but that's just a theory based on a small dose of logic applied to inconclusive, casual observation.

 

I happen to prefer steering damping at all times (always have), and often dial in more for higher speeds, often adjusting it frequently on the fly for certain kinds of rides. I'm still using the original Bitubo damper at 34K miles. It's always worked perfectly and has never leaked, seeped, or weeped.

 

I suggest the possibility that adjusted for no damping, the oil doesn't circulate, and the seals then have a tendency to dry up. Then when the adjuster is eventually moved, oil circulates and leaks appear.

 

Seems to be one of those "use it or lose it" kinda things. . .

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV.

[dlaing]

FWIW I keep my Bitubo damper at the minimum setting and using hose clamps, I abuse it and use it as my steering stop, because my original steering stop has not functioned properly in years.

Despite having the knob all the way out and using it as a steering stop, it does not leak and seems to function smoothly as tested with front wheel in air(on jackstand, not tested during wheelie)

[badmotogoozer]

that adjusted for no damping,

 

Even on the lowest setting there is still significant damping, not "no damping". I used mine mostly on the lowest setting but would adjust it up to 3 clicks in at times and it still shit the bed at 12K kms. I pulled it apart and had a look at rebuilding it but quickly realized what a waste of time repairing a turd would be.

 

If anyone wants to test their damper the only real way to do it is to take it off the bike (a 30sec proceedure) and check how smooth it's operation is by hand.

 

The new Hyperpro is excellent!

 

Rj

[Guest ratchethack]

Even on the lowest setting there is still significant damping, not "no damping".

Well, that's just plain odd , Ryan.

 

I assume you're referring to the Bitubo steering damper, since that's the one I specifically referred to above?

 

When I adjust my steering head bearings, I put the bike on the stand with the front wheel off the ground. My final check after torquing the steering stem adjustment nut is to get a read on how freely the fork turns. With the damper backed full off, it has always flopped dead to its stop on both sides by gravity alone, with no added effort -- it takes 6 or 7 clicks before I start to detect any damping wotsoever. There's no damping at all when it's fully backed off -- none a-tall.

 

Wotever do you make of it?!

[Ryland3210]

These things are notorious for leaking. Having had it apart does it look like it can be resealed with conventional O-rings or such?

 

I have only had the adjusting assembly apart. An ordinary O-Ring seal is used there.

With the needle all the way in or out, oil circulates, just in variing degrees. Damping is present in varying degrees throughout the range specified in the manual: all the way clockwise for maximum damping, to 16 clicks counterclockwise from there for the "soft" setting. I tried riding today with it off the bike, and it handled fine. My preference is for quick steering, but as the bike loosens up with age years from now, I will then put it back on. For those who like to carve corners at extreme angles or achieve a light touch of the front tire at high speed via maximum acceleration or plain old high velocity cruising damping is probably required.

 

It looks as though the piston rod seals are conventional, judging from the slotted retainers.

 

If one takes the adjustment assembly apart, it will be very tricky to reassemble without a special tool. I found it impossible, so I made one out of a $2 brass hose fitting. I can supply instructions upon request.

[badmotogoozer]

Well, that's just plain odd , Ryan.

 

I assume you're referring to the Bitubo steering damper, since that's the one I specifically referred to above?

 

When I adjust my steering head bearings, I put the bike on the stand with the front wheel off the ground. My final check after torquing the steering stem adjustment nut is to get a read on how freely the fork turns. With the damper backed full off, it has always flopped dead to its stop on both sides by gravity alone, with no added effort -- it takes 6 or 7 clicks before I start to detect any damping wotsoever. There's no damping at all when it's fully backed off -- none a-tall.

 

Wotever do you make of it?!

 

Certainly not the experience I've had with mine.

 

It is no secret you strive to discredit every single post I make.

 

The extent of your testing has been to get the front wheel off the ground and move it around?? You do know how a damper works?? I've taken mine apart and studied it myself.

 

If you take it off, as I have, you will feel that there is in fact significant damping on the lowest setting. I've ridden significant Km's both with it on low and without it completely (this is zero damping). There is a significant damping and anyone can easily feel the difference.

 

I've said my peace - you can continue with your non-stop stream of self congratulatory verbal masturbation.

 

Rj