Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Yes the diva-Corsa has done it again , this is the second "jealousy scene" that she is doing to me and I am thinking of a divorce. Just came back (4:30 AM over here in Greece now) tired of this bike failure.Tired of thinking what should this be. Started a 50 mile short night ride tonight and the bike went totally off on the highway, somewhat far away from home. I pulled over and after being lucky enough since a police patrol was passing by in the dead og night in nowhere land, I popped in & went and got some gas , since I thought that was the problem. Night ride was totally ruined and me was sitting looking at the moon in the middle of the night ,smoking one of my Dunhill's and wondering WTH is wrong again, till the service truck come and pull me over. Having a nice chat with the officers we analysed from work and carrier, to the bikes & women similarities to mating procedures in nature according to Aristotele But it wasn't the gas the problem I notice that after switching the key on there is no hhhhhssst noice and though the starter works , the bike doesn't start at all... So what should I look for??? Is it the fuel pump, should It be the fuel filter (over due and should have changed it 2000 km ago.) Or is it something else??? I don't really want to divorce her, she was so loyal and faithful all these years in her motorcycle role so in the end, I love her Cheers. I quickly burn a new EPROM-chip and go fit it in the ECU and see if that's it.
Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Author Posted July 31, 2007 The fuses and relays all check out? Fuses OK , relays? . If you can promt me on the relays of the Sport 1100i or other equivelants, perhaps a BMW part that I can find easy,( if that finnaly is the case) that would be great. How can I test a relay if it is good or not? ANd anyone of any idea where that is? ( is that metal thing under the back seat?) go get some pic for you. Thanks buddy
Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Author Posted July 31, 2007 Yep found those relays. As I turn the key to on , I hear a little click once coming the relays place and after about a couple of seconds there comes another click. Hint I also forgot to say that after I put the gas on the bike (well it had some anyways) the bike started a bit once and then died on my hands , after that though not a single time it could start. Starter is rolling as always.
dlaing Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Has the new regulator arrived yet? This may be a long shot, but I have been told that a dirty fuel filter can make the fuel pump work too hard and cause the battery to drain. This scenario could also cause the voltage regulator to work harder and possibly die. But you were getting good voltage with that voltage regulator, so maybe it is not the filter. So, new regulator, new fuel filter, and for a few dollars more, some new relays.
dlaing Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Oh, yah, and if you have the Transil Diode modification, it may have saved your ECU from when the regulator died, but might now be causing this problem. See http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/english.html and http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/1100_sport_en.html But if you did not have the Transil Diode Modification there is some significant chance the ECU is damaged.
Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Author Posted July 31, 2007 Has the new regulator arrived yet? This may be a long shot, but I have been told that a dirty fuel filter can make the fuel pump work too hard and cause the battery to drain. This scenario could also cause the voltage regulator to work harder and possibly die. But you were getting good voltage with that voltage regulator, so maybe it is not the filter. So, new regulator, new fuel filter, and for a few dollars more, some new relays. Thanks Dave , yest the original Regulator has arrived and was on the ike.Funnt thing is I put it on yesterday. My speculation is a dirty fuel filter. Truth is that the hhhhst noice was quite silent ;lattely. DOes this meant something. I am going to chanfe the fuel filter myself and see. Dave I don't have the diode thing on , Is this good or bad news on my condititon now?
John Neeson Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 A dirty fuel filter would not prevent the fuel pump from running. I had the same problem with my Sport Injection. It was caused by a relay failure - fuel pump relay is second from the front of the bike. It first appeared as an intermittent failure, but soon failed completely.
Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Author Posted July 31, 2007 A dirty fuel filter would not prevent the fuel pump from running. I had the same problem with my Sport Injection. It was caused by a relay failure - fuel pump relay is second from the front of the bike. It first appeared as an intermittent failure, but soon failed completely. Thanks for your info, I will replace these relays , just to be sure. Does anyone knows if there are any similarities in these relays as a Ducati part , or a BMW or whatever so it is esier to get this part from them.????
twhitaker Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Siemens relay V23073 or GEI relay AR4-012-C11 There is a Bosch number but I've been unable to find it.
dlaing Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Siemens relay V23073 or GEI relay AR4-012-C11 There is a Bosch number but I've been unable to find it. If they are the same relays as the V11 sport as your post suggests, than Bosch Relay part number 0 332 207 307
dlaing Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks Dave , yest the original Regulator has arrived and was on the ike.Funnt thing is I put it on yesterday. My speculation is a dirty fuel filter. Truth is that the hhhhst noice was quite silent ;lattely. DOes this meant something. I am going to chanfe the fuel filter myself and see. Dave I don't have the diode thing on , Is this good or bad news on my condititon now? I hope you put the regulator on correctly. When I replaced mine, I found a voltage drop between regulator and battery of about 0.5 Volts. So, I replaced the wiring (which Electrosport recommended in the instructions that I ignored at first) So, if you get it running check for voltage output at various RPMs, with and without lights, etc. I would double check how the regulator is wired against the wiring diagram. Did the alternator warning light problem go away when you installed the latest regulator? When your regulator first went bad, it could have taken out the ECU. Having a Diode in place would have reduced the chance of that problem. You may also have a diode in your relays, and one or more of them may be bad. I recommend replacing all of them as they SHOULD be inexpensive, and they may have taken the brunt of the load when the regulator went bad. It is good that a dirty fuel filter won't take out a regulator and a fuel pump! as that could be costly. You might be able to swap relays around to troubleshoot the problem. Just keep track of which relay came from which socket by numbering the relays. And make sure they are all five terminal relays.
Alex-Corsa Posted July 31, 2007 Author Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks Dave for all the clues. Yes after installing the original regulator all works fine concerning the lamps. The test I did is that I switched that very relay (starter relay) with the Headlamp relay and still the same happened (no hsst noice) then I switched it with the Power relay and no lights on the instruments came on when turning the key to on position. Any verdict on this.? do I have a fuel pump "Kaput" as well now? About the ECU what could be likely to be broken?. I have a spare new but it is a hassle to try installing it on.(or isn't it?) I have 3 terminal relays as long as I have seen
Cliff Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 First make sure you check fuses with a meter, not a visual check. There are 2 relays in question. The first is triggered by the key and supplies power to the ECU. You could check you get 5V to the TPS by removing the TPS connector. If the ECU gets power, it will energise the 2nd relay that powers the fuel pump/coils/injectors. Fuel pumps rarely fail. Mine did :-( You could check the impedance across the fuel pump terminal - probably a few ohms. Mine was open circuit.
John Neeson Posted July 31, 2007 Posted July 31, 2007 Swapping the relays might not be such a good idea Looking down from above, the sockets the relay pins are numbered: ---3--- ---5--- 1--4--2 On my bike, the Fuel pump relay socket is wired differently from the other three: It has Pin 2 wired to +12V, and the others have Pin 1 wired to +12V. I do not know if it left the factory this way or it was modified later on. Also, the 3 other relays are polarised Bosch types (built in diode). The faulty fuel pump relay was a non-polarised Siemens. The net result was that it was not possible to try one of the others (say the Headlamp relay) in the Fuel Pump relay socket: If you did, you would have connected +12V to an ECU output via a diode. I don't think the ECU would like that. Naturally, if all your relays are non-polarised you can swap relays without any problem If you wan't to test your fuel pump, briefly short out pins 3 and 5 on the socket (with the relay removed) and you should hear the pump running.
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