Johan Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 Hi, Have checked the tach again on a long ride today, nah it is now really starting to fail, doesnt indicate above 5000 anymore and I really revved it way beyond..rpm is not gently dancing but bouncing like crazy. Also experienced stalling engine when idling after fighting some slow traffic downtown.. now this is getting on my nerves as I have traumas from by ducati stopping in the middle of traffic.........................hrmpff Maybe the relays need to be changed first before cutting any instrument.. Jo
raz Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 Have checked the tach again on a long ride today, nah it is now really starting to fail, doesnt indicate above 5000 anymore and I really revved it way beyond..rpm is not gently dancing but bouncing like crazy. Also experienced stalling engine when idling after fighting some slow traffic downtown.. now this is getting on my nerves as I have traumas from by ducati stopping in the middle of traffic.........................hrmpff Maybe the relays need to be changed first before cutting any instrument.. Just swap all relays (of the same type) around, in a round-robin fashion. See if the fault moves with them. It's one of the easiest check one can do! Stalling in traffic is not fun. I once had a sudden stall in the middle of several lanes in a tunnel, in lots of traffic. I made an extremely quick decision to just pull the clutch and throw the bike to the side between cars so I ended up in a better position. I'm pretty sure I'd been ran over by a truck if I had hesitated three seconds more and lost the maneuvering speed.
Guest ratchethack Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 Stalling in traffic is not fun. I once had a sudden stall in the middle of several lanes in a tunnel, in lots of traffic. I made an extremely quick decision to just pull the clutch and throw the bike to the side between cars so I ended up in a better position. I'm pretty sure I'd been ran over by a truck if I had hesitated three seconds more and lost the maneuvering speed. A friend of a friend's son was hit and killed on his moto when he ran out of gas in the #1 lane of a busy 4-lane freeway with no shoulder on the left. He was hit before he could make it over to the shoulder on the right. This was a particularly unfortunate accident, because had he practiced opening his reserve fuel tap on the fly (as I have done on every moto I've owned that has one, including my Yammerhammer XT600E, which I've made use of several times, exactly this way), this tragedy might otherwise have been reduced to a simple matter of taking the next exit for gas. Best continually practice habits of mentally planning "what ifs" whilst in traffic.
luhbo Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 Hi, Have checked the tach again on a long ride today, nah it is now really starting to fail, doesnt indicate above 5000 anymore and I really revved it way beyond..rpm is not gently dancing but bouncing like crazy. .... That's exactly the way mine had died. Check relays, swap them, blow a bit on them or sing for them, it for sure won't hurt. You guess it probably already, I'm still using the Siemens relays, as Siemens still is in business producing them. I can't see it as being very exceptional if your engine stalls at idle after such a slow motion business traffic torture. In situations like this I can read head/oil temperatures of 120°C and more. Temperatures goes up very rapidly, and then comes down very slowly and only on the open road. In situations like this, engine stalled, lights switching to green, I usually tend to press the Start button and drive on Hubert I also had a very disgusting and unpleasant experience with a stalling engine once: I tried to pass my buddy and ran out of fuel exactly the moment I thought I had him. Shame, big shame!
Johan Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 That's exactly the way mine had died. Check relays, swap them, blow a bit on them or sing for them, it for sure won't hurt. You guess it probably already, I'm still using the Siemens relays, as Siemens still is in business producing them. I can't see it as being very exceptional if your engine stalls at idle after such a slow motion business traffic torture. In situations like this I can read head/oil temperatures of 120°C and more. Temperatures goes up very rapidly, and then comes down very slowly and only on the open road. In situations like this, engine stalled, lights switching to green, I usually tend to press the Start button and drive on Hubert I also had a very disgusting and unpleasant experience with a stalling engine once: I tried to pass my buddy and ran out of fuel exactly the moment I thought I had him. Shame, big shame! Yeah, this stalling thing is something else.. Have made lots of miles with the older Guzzis. Stalling engine only happens on the carurettor types when misfiring one cilinder, hot oil makes more revs generaly.. This injection Guzzi is new for me. Before on the Ducati St4S I had poor running when the oil gets hot, but not stallng. It is just above zero now, so what will it bring in summertime.. Maybe it is an (early?) V11 thing, somebody recognises? Jo.
luhbo Posted March 26, 2008 Posted March 26, 2008 ...This injection Guzzi is new for me. Before on the Ducati St4S I had poor running when the oil gets hot, but not stallng. It is just above zero now, so what will it bring in summertime.. Maybe it is an (early?) V11 thing, somebody recognises? Jo. With injection bikes you can and also have to adjust everything manually in the map, this done by the OEM. It's quite possible that this map is not in every corner close to perfect, to say the least. The more with an early V11. I don't know whether Guzzi came up with software updates for the early types as well. Your problem might also be just a poor synchronisation, a small and hence invisible crack in a rubber manifold and and and. Don't worry about the temperature. The values of which I spoke above were read in summer, of course. Then it's quite easy to reach them, especially when digging in thick traffic, or, totally weird, after a good run with a sudden stop, leaving the autobahn eg and standing at a red light. Mine now has 80.000km on the clock and is still runing absolutely reliable and strong, hopefully also through this year Hubert
Johan Posted April 25, 2008 Posted April 25, 2008 Fixed the tacho, had to cut it open. Hubert you were right it is magnetic. And spent an hour cleaning it after. Problem was the same as the one mentioned in the thread (with the alu-tape). At first I was disappointed because it looked okay. Later I notced the hair thin wire from the small coil to the rotor (one of the two) was indeed loose although it looked OK. Was able to solder it however. And working! Saved me 275 Euro for new instrument or 175 for replacement on exchange basis that is of course if it is not in two halves yet.. Regret to inform you I did again the duct tape fix to connect the upper and lower part of casing... bad habit but works for sure. Fixed the stalling of hot engine. This was caused by completely off tappet clearances (way too narrow). Thats what you you get if you buy second hand bikes.. So it makes me more or less happy now.. Johan
luhbo Posted April 26, 2008 Posted April 26, 2008 Johann, I'm glad you succeded. Mine still is dead. The whole last year I was without a tach. I have Cliff's Optimiser mounted on the fork bridge, so this was not too much a problem. Actually I'm trying to replace the f/u Veglia pcb with a custom made one, using the first part of this link. As I'm not very used to electronics the progress of this project is a bit slow. Fortunately this season just has started. Hubert
Johan Posted April 27, 2008 Posted April 27, 2008 Hubert, Looks cool, this electronic tacho replacement. Intresting it is.. Was also thinking in this direction but then from already existing instruments from any manufacturer.. yiou know nice priced 2nd hand stuff.. But for now it works fine. Johan
Johan Posted April 27, 2008 Posted April 27, 2008 picture of problem part. the coil is visible, the thin wires not but they are easlily broken by movement of the needle. Stupid thing is, on assembly I set the needle perfectly in zero, now it is again a little off set already.. maybe I should have set it below zero without power connected..
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