Gauges, version II

[Greg Field]

The mechanical oil-pressure gauge I installed a year or so ago on my Ballabio in an effort to try to figure out if the oil pressure on the V11 was truly dropping when the oil light began to flicker under hard acceleration rattled itself to death a month ago. Most of the fault was mine. The bracket I made for it allowed it to jiggle too much with the vibration of the engine. I missed having oil-pressure readings to reassure me, so I decided to replace that gauge and add a voltmeter, too.

 

This round, I went with an electric pressure gauge and a matching voltmeter. I the VDO gauges and mounting cups egauges.com. For mounting them, I made a pair of simple but sturdy brackets out of aluminum strap that attach to the top and turn-signal mounting points for the headlight holders of the V11 Sport

 

 

This shows the oil gauge mounted up.

 

 

Here's the sender unit. It has 12x1.5 thread, so an adapter was not necessary. It also has a contact that operates the oil-pressure light on the dash.

 

 

Here's a pic with both in place. They're aligned better than the distorted photo suggests and are easy to read, even at night.

 

I also got an oil-temp gauge but won't put it on until the next round, when I put on a LeMans fairing painted in Coppa Italia colors. I'm waiting for winter to tackle that. I found a sensor for the temp gauge that fits perfectly the hole in the sump just to the right of the drain plug, so the installation won't require drilling any holes in the sump.

[docc]

Greg, very clean!

 

The photo must show the fly screen rotated forward?

 

Vive Coppa Seattalia!

[Greg Field]

Just hard acceleration from a stop, as when sprinting into a hole in traffic. The problem appears to be that the oil slops to the back of the sump, exposing the pickup. Keeping the sump full or overfull seems to cure it on most bikes. A sure cure seems to be the sloppage plate that Pete ROper makes and sells.

[Ryland3210]

Hi Kevin H,

 

In addition to Pete's sloppage plate, you might check the oil level marks on your dipstick. Considerable research into this disclosed that some dipstick full marks are about 11/16" low (as was the case on my '04 Cafe Sport), resulting in underfilling the sump. You might search that topic to see if your dipstick has a problem (no pun intended!).

 

To Greg,

 

Nice work, Greg.

 

One comment: Once upon a time, I mounted some homespun electronic guages on my Harley handlebar riser. The aluminum I used was about 0.100" thick, and 5 inches wide. In spite of having some vibration isolation from the rubber mounted risers, the sheet aluminum failed from fatigue after maybe 1,000 miles.

[Ryland3210]

I've absolutely no problems w/ the dipstick or oil level or flickering oil light.

 

Guzzi's quantities are typically off & residual oil remains in the cooler/engine (or filter if that is not removed) after an oil change, so you'll never add the specified volume. Unless someone completely drained/flushed all the oil lines, cooler, and disassembled the engine and removed all the oil, it could never truly be known how much oil remains.

 

I'm not using the cheap-o black plastic dipstick.

 

It does no harm to an engine to slightly overfill the crankcase. Guzzi lowered the sump years ago to keep the crank out of the oil, which robs power. FWIW I never had any oil blowby or other problems w/ my Guzzis that had no oil pan spacer.

 

I have no pecuniary interests in this matter.

 

Do you have the facts on whether the volume specified in the manual is the actual total oil Guzzi believes the engine should hold, or do they intend the refill volume? Logically, it would make more sense for them to specify the latter, but I'm interested if you know whether or not that, in fact, is the case.

 

I personally haven't seen any flickering oil light under hard acceleration, but others have. It may be because myself and others researched the proper oil level ad nauseum in other threads, so I'm confident in the oil level I am using.

 

Refilled with the specified volume, with filter changed, the level in my bike falls comfortably below the sump gasket, so I have no fear of overfilling. My plastic dipstick has been remarked to correspond to that level.

 

I also have no financial interest in Pete's sloppage plate. One issue is the oil level, the other is the fact that oil will move towards the rear under acceleration, whereas the pump pickup is towards the front. Pete's plate helps prevent that.

 

I'm no fan of plastic dipsticks either. What do you use?

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

Greg, could you tell us what manufacturer made yours? Every one I've looked at has a British Standard Pipe fitting or NTP, & I'll be chasing adaptors.

 

My dipstick is stainless with a temp. gauge as handle.

[Greg Field]

VDO gauges and sender.

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

Couldn't find one, so I went for a fairly cheap electronic sender & gauge (ket) & a long reach brass T block 12mm to 1/8npt adaptor from www.europaspares.com. Many attempts with combinations of various shims/washers got that to fit at an angle which I could squeeze the sender into, & I mounted the dial inside an aluminium tumbler (!) on a homemade dural bracket. I took the power supply for the dial from a new connection made from the pressure switch supply... so does that explain why the oil pressure light is always faintly on (bright when the motor's not running) & I get readings between 65psi to what must be about 110 psi -or can anyone throw any new ideas in?

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

:wacko: ok so that should be preserved.

 

So finally I hooked it to a live feed, got 60psi at tickover, up to 80 at speed, even when motor well warmed up. Yesterday the oil warning light came on, but gauge was reading 65-70. I stopped anyway, looked around & couldn't see or hear anything amiss & started her up. Oil pressure at tickover about 40, rising to 60 at anything over tickover. I continued my journey. I've had the warning light fail to come on when the motor's warmed up & I shut down, which is why I bought a new switch -still does it sometimes.

On the return (13 miles) everything was as normal. I dropped the sump today & the filter is...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

-exactly as it was when I put it in, snug & with a jubilee clip backed off an inch or so, so that I can tell on next change whether there's been a spin.

I wonder where to look next?

[Greg Field]

:wacko: ok so that should be preserved.

 

So finally I hooked it to a live feed, got 60psi at tickover, up to 80 at speed, even when motor well warmed up. Yesterday the oil warning light came on, but gauge was reading 65-70. I stopped anyway, looked around & couldn't see or hear anything amiss & started her up. Oil pressure at tickover about 40, rising to 60 at anything over tickover. I continued my journey. I've had the warning light fail to come on when the motor's warmed up & I shut down, which is why I bought a new switch -still does it sometimes.

On the return (13 miles) everything was as normal. I dropped the sump today & the filter is...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

-exactly as it was when I put it in, snug & with a jubilee clip backed off an inch or so, so that I can tell on next change whether there's been a spin.

I wonder where to look next?

 

Try another gauge. EI can lend you a dead-reliable and accurate mechanical gauge to check what your pressures really are.

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

I probably didn't do it any favours running the current from the warning switch through it, & it got knocked about a bit while fitting. Still showing 45ish - 80, & the warning light came on again yesterday -it is a recent replacement, an Intermotor 50570. Perhaps the mixed currents damaged that too, or perhaps the ridiculous Welsh rain has connected something else in the loom. Bike runs like a dream though

[pasotibbs]

I probably didn't do it any favours running the current from the warning switch through it, & it got knocked about a bit while fitting. Still showing 45ish - 80, & the warning light came on again yesterday -it is a recent replacement, an Intermotor 50570. Perhaps the mixed currents damaged that too, or perhaps the ridiculous Welsh rain has connected something else in the loom. Bike runs like a dream though

Almost certainly water in the sensor, my Ducati used to do it all the time if ridden in the rain for any long distance, the V11's done it once so far.

I'd replace the sensor but waterproof the new one as much as possible as water seems to get in between the connector and the plastic part of the sensor.In the past I've tried to get the water out of the sensor by drilling a small hole in the plastic (near the connector) and using WD40 and then switch cleaner but they've never been reliable afterwards.

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

So now I'm back to a working switch & a gauge that shows high pressure... still haven't tried another dial -does anyone have any ideas on the best live feed to tap into for the gauge? I've used the supply to the rear brake switch -maybe not the best?