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Posted

Many of us have experienced low oil pressure and warning lights turning on under hard acceleration. That hasn't happened on my bike. However, I use a higher oil level than the dipstick full mark. I decided to determine my own oil level when I read threads about different interpretations on how to use the dipstick markings, Pete Roper's comments on pump starvation and his sloppage plate solution. Pete recommends a level just below the plate, which is considerably higher on the dipstick than the full mark, even if one does the measurement with the dipstick resting on its threads, rather than screwed in.

 

Anyway, I always like watching oil pressure on anything I drive for many reasons, and decided to adapt one to my bike. I found that under maximum acceleration, even though the light does not go on, pressure drops in first gear, but not in second or third. That's with an oil level 1 inch above the dipstick full mark, measured with it screwed in. That convinced me of the value of Pete's sloppage plate, even at optimum oil levels.

 

Here are pictures of the installation of the gauge:

 

GaugeMount.jpg

PortAdapter.jpg

PgaugeProfile.jpg

 

 

I am willing to make a kit consisting of the port adapter, gauge mount, glycerin filled gauge, hose fittings, SS screws, and hose over rated for the pressures and temperatures involved. It is a bolt-on kit for bikes with the instrument panel like the one on my '04 Cafe Sport. For mounting elsewhere, the gauge mount has provision for two M6 screws. Anyone out there interested? Let me know.

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Posted

About $125 US, if I get 10 or more people willing to commit.

 

That includes the glycerin filled gauge and all the other parts mentioned in my initial post with instructions. No special tools required, and installation is easy. The tank does not have to be removed for installation.

Posted

Will you make a gauge mount for the V11S and LeMans cockpits?

 

Send me a personal message or email with pictures, and I'll give it a shot!

Posted

Send me a personal message or email with pictures, and I'll give it a shot!

We might need to brainstorm with the forum savants.

Here is my 2000 V11 dash area with Centauro bars being considered...

dash1eg9.jpg

There are two button bolts shown holding the aluminum plate that holds the tach and speedo.

They could be used to attach a wire mount.

Or assuming everyone uses bar end or fairing mirrors, the mirror mounts could be used.

Or the mounts for the fluid resevoirs could be enhanced and used.

Posted

We might need to brainstorm with the forum savants.

Here is my 2000 V11 dash area with Centauro bars being considered...

 

There are two button bolts shown holding the aluminum plate that holds the tach and speedo.

They could be used to attach a wire mount.

Or assuming everyone uses bar end or fairing mirrors, the mirror mounts could be used.

Or the mounts for the fluid resevoirs could be enhanced and used.

 

The picture helps, but I think I need to see a typical bike.

 

By the way, it may look like my pressure guage is attached to the steel wire, but it's not. The gauge is screwed into an aluminum block, which is in turn attached to the existing vibration isolators. The block also is tapped for the hose fitting on the side. The wire clears the gauge and block. I had no idea what the wire was for, but it came in handy to tie wrap the throttle cables to.

Posted

Nice job, any chance of a side shot of the pressure gauge? :bier:

 

Thanks.

 

I've added another picture to the first post.

 

We might need to brainstorm with the forum savants.

Here is my 2000 V11 dash area with Centauro bars being considered...

dash1eg9.jpg

There are two button bolts shown holding the aluminum plate that holds the tach and speedo.

They could be used to attach a wire mount.

Or assuming everyone uses bar end or fairing mirrors, the mirror mounts could be used.

Or the mounts for the fluid resevoirs could be enhanced and used.

 

It looks like the best place might be an adaptation to the handlebar mounts. I'll keep working on it. There is a regional MGNOC breakfast meeting this Sunday. If I can get away to go there, I'm sure I'll get some ideas by looking at the various models.

Posted

Thanks.

 

I've added another picture to the first post.

It looks like the best place might be an adaptation to the handlebar mounts. I'll keep working on it. There is a regional MGNOC breakfast meeting this Sunday. If I can get away to go there, I'm sure I'll get some ideas by looking at the various models.

But of course many of us have different handlebars.

In that photo are my OEM bars, but now I have Convertibars.

I'll have to take some more photos.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

One of the members and I have been discussing how fast oil pressure builds on cold starts with 15W40 oil. I thought I would share the results with everyone.

 

I left my beloved bike out in the cold last night, knowing it was going to dip below freezing. There was still frost on the grass and the air temperature was 34 F. There was condensation on the bike, so I knew it was good and cold.

 

While I was cranking to get it started, pressure started to build almost instantly. Within 3 seconds of relatively slow cranking, before the engine even sputtered, pressure was up to 20 psi and climbing fast. I estimate the engine was turned over 10 revolutions at most, by which time it reached 40, and still kept climbing. When it started, it jumped to 65. at 2000 RPM, it was at 80 psi, which appeared to be the relief valve's effective limit at this low an oil temperature. Normally it stays around 50-60 when fully warmed up, depending on ambient temperature.

 

Conditions are my '04 Cafe Sport with about 4000 miles, Purolator L10241 filter, 15W40 Shell Rotella oil.

 

Evidently the anti drainback valve in this filter does its job (not that other filters aren't just as good in this respect, but this is the only one I have tested this way.

 

From now on, I plan on taking advantage of this. My bike does not like to start unless I give it some throttle, even with the "choke" on full. I now know I can deliberately leave the choke off and crank until I see pressure building, because it happens quickly enough to not drain the battery much. Then use the normal starting method, knowing oil will be pressurized the instant she fires up. I used to do the same thing when I ran a boat with twin 454's, but it would take a lot longer to build pressure than this. I'm more and more happy to have this gauge. I keep learning more and more about how this engine runs, so I can protect it for the long haul.

Posted

The way the filter is mounted on V11, the oil can't drain back. I do the pre-oiling trick, too.

 

Here're pics of a couple of ways to add a gauge:

 

 

PICT0035.jpg

 

 

This is an adapter I made that allows function of the oil light. (I had a mechanical gauge on the Ballabio for a while.)

 

 

PICT0006-7.jpg

 

 

This is a sender for an electrical gauge. It threads right in to the Guzzi block and also runs the oil light.

 

 

 

PICT0001-3.jpg

 

 

Here's the electrical gauge I currently have mounted to my Ballabio.

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