Yet another failure on the 1100i Sport

[Alex-Corsa]

This time I give up. I give up,

I do not know what to say except that I will stay home and only do PC work.

Anyways tonight as I was on the highway giving it the beans the bike gave me a failure.

I love her so I will fix her up, I am really that desperate.

 

TO make the long story short, suddenly it sounded strange and not able to

accelerate at any means over 4000RPM. at 4th gear andf 3800 at fourth gear.

I was about 60km away from home in the dead of night so I took it easy and

got back home as she wanted. 4th gear 4000RPM , it sounded strange all the way

like working on one cylinder though it wasn't sounded like it was boohh crooook, fed up really.

Some km before I got home a really loud cranking noise came up and just managed to pull her up to

the garage/

No hrichrichk when engaging clutch, just a cranking repeated noise.

Personally I think is the clutch

Any ideas would be welcome and helpfull.

I'd phone up the mechanic tomorrow and let him have it.

Thank God it happened now and not in travel.

 

 

I'm serious yes

[Guest Megarad]

Check valve clearances as I suspect you have stuffed a pushrod.I had the same symptoms when a pushrod failed on me a couple of years ago.It may not be the pushrod but its easy enough to check before diving in deeper.

 

Len

[Alex-Corsa]

Check valve clearances as I suspect you have stuffed a pushrod.I had the same symptoms when a pushrod failed on me a couple of years ago.It may not be the pushrod but its easy enough to check before diving in deeper.

 

Len

 

 

Thanks for your reply. Nice point I have to check it out. WOuld it be disatrous if I move the bike for some KM more? to get it to the workshop ?

 

Note that i have also seen a higher AFR a t times I opened the throtlle (tried to open)

[antonio carroccio]

ECU? Reset and restart will help. Do you use the PCIII?

[Guzzirider]

Alex

 

If it was not for the clanking noise I would say it may be clutch slip- happened to me when I used to own a Sport Corsa, and would give the symptoms you describe when trying to accelerate.

 

Get underneath the back of the motor and take a really good look at the rear of the crankcase- can you see any small drops of oil leaking?

 

If so, your seal may be leaking, and contaminating the dry clutch with oil, causing the slip.

 

May not be this at all, but its easy to check.

 

Hope you get it sorted

 

Guy

[pete roper]

Single plate clutch? possibly flywheel failure? Although that to the best of my knowledge is limited to Scuras?

 

If it turns out to be a pushrod? gimme a hoy, I'll send you one for your work on the forum for nix. I got tons of 'em

 

Pete

[Alex-Corsa]

Single plate clutch? possibly flywheel failure? Although that to the best of my knowledge is limited to Scuras?

 

If it turns out to be a pushrod? gimme a hoy, I'll send you one for your work on the forum for nix. I got tons of 'em

 

Pete

 

 

Thanks Pete and thank all for your answers.

It finally proved to be inlet valve opened a hole in the piston. Spark plug had also a bit flattened end

Both valves have to be changed and valve seats guides and so on

I planned to get a whole new head btw, and have the other as spare.

 

Hope to get it back on the road soon , but no Mandelo or anything this year.......snif . snif...

[Pierre]

...

It finally proved to be inlet valve opened a hole in the piston. Spark plug had also a bit flattened end

Both valves have to be changed and valve seats guides and so on

I planned to get a whole new head btw, and have the other as spare.

...

Time for timing gears, bro. Those stretchy chain thingies with the tensioner thingies apparently let the valves dance too close to the piston. Sorry about your incident. Hope you're up and running soon.

[Alex-Corsa]

Time for timing gears, bro. Those stretchy chain thingies with the tensioner thingies apparently let the valves dance too close to the piston. Sorry about your incident. Hope you're up and running soon.

 

Thanks buddy ,will check it out.

[Alex-Corsa]

Yikes! Sorry to hear this, Alex. Best wishes & be back on the road soon! It does sound as though the piston/bottom end was traveling too fast and hit the valves, for whatever reason. I could not tell from the original description.

 

Would it be possible to find a spare engine or parts bike? Just an idea.

 

Yes it was finnaly the chain tensioner which was loose and also the inside miror broke and all happened

 

 

Thanks Kevin , everything will be alright soon, Better than before.Getting better and better all the time.

[Cliff]

How far has the bike travelled and is the chain and tensioner original?

[Alex-Corsa]

How far has the bike travelled and is the chain and tensioner original?

 

Got it used with 30K km , then I put another 60K on.

 

Question would be in which conditiond is the chain-tensioner system getting most "wear" in traveling conditions or mixed including some city traffic ?

[motoguzznix]

Got it used with 30K km , then I put another 60K on.

 

Question would be in which conditiond is the chain-tensioner system getting most "wear" in traveling conditions or mixed including some city traffic ?

Alex

 

There are resonances at a certain rpm level that make the tensioner work most. Where this occurs depends on the whole valve train of the engine. A cali 2 with P3 cam rattled most at approx. 3000 rpm.

 

A Stucchi tensioner together with a new chain works better and is my recommendation for your engine rebuild.

New valves of superior quality and guides into both heads are a must.

Skim off 1 mm from the heads to eliminate the chamfer in the combustion chamber. Shorten the cylinder barrels to bring the pistons on top of the cylinders. Pay attention to the head gasket: 1.2 mm is the correct thickness, there are also thicker ones available.

After all this work is done, the valve clearence to the pistons has to be checked. If the clearence is below 2mm, either the valves have to be set deeper in the seat or the pockets in the pistons must be machined deeper. CR should be around 10,5:1 after this rework and the squish area is optimized. Knocking should occur less than before inspite the higher CR.

A new set of rings for the pistons (if you do not replace both) would be a good idea at that mileage. New bearings for the rods big and small ends too. Weigh the pistons to balance them, especially if you repace only one.

 

With all this effort gone into it the engine should be capable for the next 100 000 kms.

[Alex-Corsa]

Alex

 

There are resonances at a certain rpm level that make the tensioner work most. Where this occurs depends on the whole valve train of the engine. A cali 2 with P3 cam rattled most at approx. 3000 rpm.

 

A Stucchi tensioner together with a new chain works better and is my recommendation for your engine rebuild.

 

 

Thanks for the ideas The Goose is repaired and back on track. Works and sounds so nice.

Thank you all

 

 

 

A big deal on the parts 1300Euros bang! Yep I put a new head on it.

[Pierre]

Thanks for the ideas The Goose is repaired and back on track. Works and sounds so nice.

Thank you all

A big deal on the parts 1300Euros bang! Yep I put a new head on it.

Glad you're up and running again, Alex. I'd miss your enthusiasm if you were without a ride for too long.

 

For some reason I thought you'd had extensive work done on the heads that got hammered, including having them "decked." That's why I suggested timing gears. If you're running stock clearances then a properly working chain ought to be fine.

 

Glad you're back riding. That was quick. Pretty reasonable price too, all things considered.