Fitting RAM clutch

[Baldini]

In the process of fitting a RAM clutch to 02 Scura, run into an unexpected problem.

 

Can anyone tell me how I can align the clutch, ie. centre the friction plate & pushrod cup/diaphram spring to the crank axis/flywheel?

 

RAM instructions suggest assembling clutch loosely on engine then mating engine/trans to align clutch parts, separating eng/trans & fully tighening clutch bolts. This seems a bit hit & miss to me, esp given that I have to do it by jiggling a *#@* heavy motor around onto trans while simultaneously aligning several hard parts that I can't see ... (I now begin to think it might have been better to remove back end & gbox as I would on Tonti...)

 

I've previously done twin plates on 5 speeds no problem (well first attempt I warped intermediate plate which is why I'm a bit cautious re alignment now) & a 5 speed RAM kit, but there the pushrod cup is removable, giving access to the crank so you can thread in an alignment tool using splined hub. On this RAM kit the pushrod cup is fixed to the diaphragm spring so you can't access the crank, so you can't use the tool....

 

Any help, very gratefully received...

 

KB

[Paul Minnaert]

Hi I never had, one to fit, but measuring from outside to the center would do I suppose?

[moscowphil]

Hi KB,

I'm a bit mystified by your question. The RAM clutch kit comes ready assembled, and (unlike the copy fitted to the Scura as standard) it is designed so that you have direct access to the bolts that mount it to the crankcase without having to dismantle the clutch assembly. So all I had to do, once I'd removed the Scura clutch was to bolt the RAM clutch straight on and then refit the gearbox. No centering of the clutch plate necessary - it was already centred - though you do have to rotate the gearbox input splined hub thingy to get the splines to align with those in the clutch plate. This is pretty straightforward though - just put the bike into gear (top is best) and then rotate the back wheel.

This was all very easy on my bike. Maybe I was lucky? Hope this helps. Cheers.

 

 

 

PS - if for any reason you have dismantled the clutch assembly - which is obviously necessary when replacing the friction plate - I'd say Paul's suggestion is right - just measure it. I used to centre the plates on my T3 just by eye - if they looked central they generally were - so you could probably do the same with the RAM clutch, but I guess some way of measuring it would be better.

[Baldini]

Phil,

 

Don't understand...Direct access? Not that I can see?

 

How did you get bolts thru assembled clutch into crank, let alone get a socket in to torque them up - The diaphram spring is in the way & the holes in it are too small to pass the bolt heads thru??? Either I'm missing something very obvious or we have different kits ?**

 

The only thing I can think of is that you used socket head screws rather than hex heads? You could get a hex key through the holes in the diaphragm...

 

Of course it's academic now anyhow cos first thing I did was dismantle it to compare components with stock...

 

Paul, if no other method presents itself measuring's what I plan to do.

 

Thanks.

 

KB

 

**PS: I get the feeling I'm going to look dumb sometime soon...

[moscowphil]

Hi KB,

My RAM kit came with a set of hex key bolts that do indeed fit through the holes provided. I used these to attach the clutch without dismantlimng it, and torqued them us using a straight hex key attachment (available in sets from your friendly local Machinemart) that fitted straight onto my torque wrench. Assuming you have these bolts lying around somewhere, I think your best bet is to basically retrace your steps - i.e. reassemble the RAM clutch off the bike, so that it is back in the condition it was in when you received it. (You will need to centre the clutch plate by measuring it, as per Paul's suggestion). Then attach the complete clutch assembly using the bolts provided by RAM. Did your clutch ome with fitting instructions? Mine didn't as far as I remember, but I found the attached doc somehere on the web. Good luck.

[Baldini]

...My RAM kit came with a set of hex key bolts that do indeed fit through the holes provided. I used these to attach the clutch without dismantlimng it...

 

Ah! well that clears that one up. I got no such bolts with mine. In fact instructions say to re-use the old flywheel bolts! (Yes I did get instructions). Thanks for your prompt response Phil, I will retire to consider my options...

 

KB

[moscowphil]

Weird that they stopped providing hex key bolts - it made the job much easier. If you are using the original bolts I guess your only option is to attach the flywheel first and then refit the rest of the clutch assembly as you are doing. But I think you should be able to centre the clutch plate accurately enough by measuring it as suggested by Paul, providing you can have got reasonable access to it. (Fine if you have completely removed the engine from the bike, but a pig I imagine if you've just moved it enough to get the old clutch out, which is what I did)

[tikkanen]

Hi Baldini, Phil and Paul

 

Just out of curiosity: How much does a RAM clutch cost? Being a Scura owner myself with the notorius rattling clutch and all the horror stories ind mind about exploding engines I have considered to have my OEM clutch replaced with a RAM thingie.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Best regards

Søren

[moscowphil]

Hi Soren,

I paid 480 Euros for mine, plus 35 euros shipping - got it from Agostini's in Mandello. By the way, as far as I can tell the rattling noise of the standard clutch seems to be caused by the splines on the friction plate wearing - mainly because Guzzi don't lubricate them at all. The RAM clutch is same design, and I imagine will also rattle as the splines wear. As far as I can see the rattling has nothing to do with the exploding flywheel problem, and probably does no harm At least until the splines get so worn they shear, at which point you would lose all drive). When I put my RAM clutch in I very lightly greased the splines on the gearbox input shaft with some special spline grease used by BMW. Hopefully this may reduce the wear rate of the clutch splines - we will see.

[Ballacraine]

The V10 10 spring unit I have fitted is a belter of a unit...Highly recommended.

 

As regards alignment...I used a spare clutch centre.

 

Nige.

[jrt]

The RAM unit is preassembled and pre-aligned. There's no need to align it.

 

Now that you've taken it apart...I'm not sure what to suggest. You need a jig or something to center it up and I would think the transmission input spline would be the thing to use. How you will find center is going to be tricky.

 

I would never, ever suggest that you bolt it back together, send it back to the company and say that it was mis-aligned from the factory.

[BrianG]

I pulled the center hub off my transmission when centering the double clutch plates on the V-11 Sport. It's only held on by one center nut........

[jrt]

The RAM unit uses it's own hub. I don't recall if the spline pitch is the same, but the RAM transmission input splined hub is shorter than the Guzzi stock unit (i.e. not interchangeable).

[Greg Field]

Support the flywheel on some blocks on your bench, such that the crankshaft side of it is off the bench by at least the length of the screws. Then, insert the screws and assemble the clutch, without fully tightening the ring-gear bolts.

 

Use a caliper between the i.d. of the ring gear and o.d. of the friction plate's hub to center the plate as precisely as you can. Then fully tighten the ring-gear bolts, and mount the assemly to the back of the crankshaft.

 

This will almost always make the plate centered enough that you can get the trans hub started into the splines on the friction plate and wiggle it all into place. The first time you de-clutch, the centering process will be complete.