Charging system

[tmcafe]

The difference could be in the regulator as well. There is also an update for the workshop manual which covers my bike. In section R, it disagrees with the operator's manual, specifying 350W, 14 volts at 25 amps at 5000 RPM.

I wonder if it's a different setup for some VINs model year 2004. Greg would likely clear this point for us.

 

As an aside, I looked up the power use for Gerbings vs. Widder gloves, and the Widders still do better, 20W only vs. 27w for the Gerbings. Widder seems the way to go--but you already knew that

[Greg Field]

So far as I know, all US V11 models from late 2003 (with front crossover) through the end have the N-D regulator. I do not know if these make a lower output, but it is possible. Guzzi literature brags about the alternator system on the Cal Vintage being uprated to 350 watts. Perhaps that's because starting with the Vintage, the Cali models got the alternator/reg combo used on the Breva 750s and Nevada IEs, which is the Ducati alternator with a larger, black regulator? Oddly, though the parts books all show the Breva 750s all having this latter Ducati regulator, I have seen plenty of Brevas with the N-D regulator.

[tmcafe]

So far as I know, all US V11 models from late 2003 (with front crossover) through the end have the N-D regulator. I do not know if these make a lower output, but it is possible. Guzzi literature brags about the alternator system on the Cal Vintage being uprated to 350 watts. Perhaps that's because starting with the Vintage, the Cali models got the alternator/reg combo used on the Breva 750s and Nevada IEs, which is the Ducati alternator with a larger, black regulator? Oddly, though the parts books all show the Breva 750s all having this latter Ducati regulator, I have seen plenty of Brevas with the N-D regulator.

Thanks Greg. This means that the 330 watts that Ryland measured is what all the other V11s crank. Not that it's a huge difference, but it's the wrong way . It would have sucked less with 350...

[Ryland3210]

Thanks Greg. This means that the 330 watts that Ryland measured is what all the other V11s crank. Not that it's a huge difference, but it's the wrong way . It would have sucked less with 350...

 

Careful, there. I did not measure 330 watts, that's what my manual states. I did not take a voltage and current measurement at 5,000 to verify the manual's spec. Also, the shop manual states 350 Watts for my bike, so either might be true at 5,000 RPM.

[tmcafe]

Careful, there. I did not measure 330 watts, that's what my manual states. I did not take a voltage and current measurement at 5,000 to verify the manual's spec. Also, the shop manual states 350 Watts for my bike, so either might be true at 5,000 RPM.

Sorry about the confusion... this also means there's hope . 350 at least sounds better than 330.

[mznyc]

"Afterwards, after draining off the surface charge",

How do you do this?

[Ryland3210]

"Afterwards, after draining off the surface charge",

How do you do this?

 

When a battery has been charging, its voltage immediately after the charging stops is not a reliable measure of state-of-charge. It takes very few amp-hours to drop this voltage down to where the battery can produce significant current. To get a good indication of the battery's condition, this "surface charge" must be drained off.

 

One way is to simply wait several hours after parking the bike. If you have just parked the bike and want to know its state of charge, another way is to turn on the headlight for 3 minutes (without engine running), then off, then wait 15 seconds before measuring the battery voltage.

[dlaing]

One way is to simply wait several hours after parking the bike. If you have just parked the bike and want to know its state of charge, another way is to turn on the headlight for 3 minutes (without engine running), then off, then wait 15 seconds before measuring the battery voltage.

With our ECU equipped bikes, is there a chance of overheating the ignition coils if you do that?

It might be a good idea to use the kill switch when you do that.

[Greg Field]

The larger Ducati reg/rect is fairly inexpensive. If I get time, I may hook one up and see if it pumps up output at all. If the Ducati reg does pump out more than the N-D, it would be fairly easy to change to it or one of the aftermarket ones to again the extra 20w.

[Guest Phil_P]

With our ECU equipped bikes, is there a chance of overheating the ignition coils if you do that?

It might be a good idea to use the kill switch when you do that.

 

I would have thought that ECU equipped bikes would be less at risk than points as the coils won't get juice unless it is actually spinning (or at least won't be getting grounded out, as that's what the ECU does). With a points bike there is a good chance that one set or other of the points will be closed and powering up the respective coil.

[Ryland3210]

I would have thought that ECU equipped bikes would be less at risk than points as the coils won't get juice unless it is actually spinning (or at least won't be getting grounded out, as that's what the ECU does). With a points bike there is a good chance that one set or other of the points will be closed and powering up the respective coil.

 

Further to Phil's point, it is very likely (but I would like to hear this confirmed) that the ignition is a capacitive discharge or other system which injects a pulse of current into the coils only when triggered by the ECU when the engine is running.

[docc]

With the ignition on and the run switch off there is no power to the coils, injectors, pump, or ECU. It took almost 40 minutes for my Hawker to run down to 11.50 DCv. After 'whacking ' the battery at 5.5-6 amps for an hour or so the sustained voltage seems higher than before.

 

Off to Barber's Vintage event tomorrow. Hope to see some of you there . . .

[dlaing]

Further to Phil's point, it is very likely (but I would like to hear this confirmed) that the ignition is a capacitive discharge or other system which injects a pulse of current into the coils only when triggered by the ECU when the engine is running.

Thanks Phil and Ryland, that makes sense.

see you later, I am off to "whack" my battery...but not with a 15+ Volt automotive battery boiler

[Guest Phil_P]

Thanks Phil and Ryland, that makes sense.

see you later, I am off to "whack" my battery...but not with a 15+ Volt automotive battery boiler

 

I've just ordered a nice big bridge rectifier and a stack of 1 amp, voltage regulators. Once I get a nice big juicy toroidal transformer I'll be putting together a high current, voltage regulated charger especially for charging my Odyssey.