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Posted

It is time to replace my stock pads, front and rear, on my 2000 MG V11 Sport. I am having some difficulty in finding Brembo or other fits. Any advice on best types and sources would be most appreciated.

 

Scott; Minneapolis, MN

Guest ratchethack
Posted

Scott, for general purpose road (non-racing) use, may I suggest organic pads. I've tried various sintered metallic pads and always return to organic pads because sintered metallic pads can, and have in my case, wreaked havoc on some kinds of disks, and are merely unkind to others.

 

I get superb feel, great mileage, and no-squeal performance from Ferodo Platinum (organic). I get 8-10K miles on the rears and double that on the fronts.

 

Ferodo Platinum fronts are P/N FDB2042P (don't have the rear P/N handy, sorry). Available at your local moto shop or any of the friendly Forum Pro dealers. I think I've got all mine for the Guzzi from the boys at Moto International.

 

<a href="http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Aftermarke...cycleBrakePads/" target="_blank">http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Aftermarke...cycleBrakePads/</a>

 

Hope this helps. :helmet:

 

Hey Scott -- careful ridin' them bridges, man. . . :o

Posted

very interesting thread! Soon I will have to change the brake pads from my V11 LeMans and I am confused of what kind of pads to use. On one hand, I want to use the same as stock pads (brembo), on the other hand my mechanic trys to persuade me to use metallic pads (Gulfer, he suggests), claiming for better performance...I told him that I've heard that metallic pads may damage the disk, but he says that he uses those metallic pads 7 years now (he has a HONDA CBR600RR) and no problem has ever occured..

 

I am confused...what is your opinion? Will the feeling of braking-and the practical result- become better using the metallic pads or will I be in danger of destroying my disks?

 

Are the stock pads organic?

Guest ratchethack
Posted

Dimitris, this is an age-old argument, and it's one of those that could rampage on and on. . . :o

 

With brake pads, as is the case in so many other circumstances when a range of different products are available, I think it boils down to what your objectives are. If a reasonable combination of reliability, fade-free performance, longevity and price are your main concerns, and you're not too keen on the idea of wearing out your disks prematurely (these are my criteria), I reckon organic pads are your best choice -- but that's just me.

 

I don't think you'd be likely to make a terrible mistake with sintered pads, and many prefer them -- for whatever reason or justification. :cheese:

 

IMHO, the word "performance" is typically misused and abused here in sales hype. If "greater performance" is your objective, I have to ask -- do you really need greater STOPPING POWER with those great big Brembos than you can get with 2 fingers using organic pads? I find I can easily howl the front tire with excellent control using 2 fingers, but then I'm not hauling down to a stop at the limits of tire adhesion from 180 mph, either. . . :huh2:

 

IMHO, "performance" isn't nearly the consideration it was in the days of drum binders. IMHO it's simply not much of a consideration when it comes to selecting brake pads, since the days of "brake fade" are pretty much ancient history for normal road use. . . :huh2:

 

Mfgr's have to sell wot people buy. IMHO the market is largely dictated by people who buy anything with "racing" or "performance" on it without much of a clue of wot they're doing. . . and waddayagonna do? You gotta have the words on the product or someone else gets the business. . . I'm convinced that most of the "racing" crap is bought by rank beginners who don't know their elbows from their anterior alimentary sphincter valves. . . :moon:

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

 

Are the stock pads organic?

Can't recall if the stock pads are sintered or not, but if you look at the "working" surface of the pad, it's obvious if it has metallic particles in it, they will reflect light. No reflected light, they're organic. B)

Posted
very interesting thread! Soon I will have to change the brake pads from my V11 LeMans and I am confused of what kind of pads to use. On one hand, I want to use the same as stock pads (brembo), on the other hand my mechanic trys to persuade me to use metallic pads (Gulfer, he suggests), claiming for better performance...I told him that I've heard that metallic pads may damage the disk, but he says that he uses those metallic pads 7 years now (he has a HONDA CBR600RR) and no problem has ever occured..

 

I am confused...what is your opinion? Will the feeling of braking-and the practical result- become better using the metallic pads or will I be in danger of destroying my disks?

 

Are the stock pads organic?

 

 

EBC has a pad that has addressed the problems with sintered pads and disc destruction.

 

EBC

Posted

I do track days and 4 times that I was in the circuit the last 2 months, my stock pads worked really good but I never have used sintered pads and I can't make a comparison..I also ride my bike in public roads (Metzeler M3). Maybe the only way to decide is to try the sintered ones....

Posted

I can't add to answers, but to questions: So there are organic, and there are sintered. I've read about 'racing pads' that you should not use on the street because they will perform bad - they are designed for higher temperatures than you get on the street. Also, you need to bed them in with the discs, and therefore you can't just put them in for the track day and swap when leaving. What are those? I take it that is a third type? I'm not even sure they are used at all on bikes.

Posted

I'm a big fan of EBC HH pads. I even run them on my Super Eldorado. I've never noticed any extra disc wear, but I sure have noticed the increased braking power. We have them at Moto INtl. if your local dealer doesn't.

Posted
I'm a big fan of EBC HH pads. I even run them on my Super Eldorado. I've never noticed any extra disc wear, but I sure have noticed the increased braking power. We have them at Moto INtl. if your local dealer doesn't.

good deal, I'll go with those and probably get them from you Greg when mine are worn, NOW here is the 6 million dollar question, what is the appropriate pad wear is acceptable, I.E. When SHOULD you replace them? I have 17000 and almost never use my rear so those are still just ok, could use replacing but then it hardly gets used(only in more serious braking situations) but I'm thinking I'll need to change them all at once at some point here.

Guest ratchethack
Posted

FWIW, a few definitions may be helpful (see source info at link below).

 

EDITORIAL comment by Y'ers Truly: The profuse brake dust from sintered pads is extremely corrosive, and will eat wheel and other finishes unless they are kept clean. This is not the case with organic pads! :thumbsup:

 

Organic

 

These pads are well-suited for street driving because they wear well, are easy on the ears, don't chew up the rotors and don't spew dust everywhere. They're favoured for your average family saloon because they work well when they're cold. Of course the drawback is that they don't work so well when they get hot.

 

Semi-metallic / sintered

 

This is a good compromise between street and track. These seem to be the pad of choice for sportier vehicles such as the Subaru Impreza WRX. They won't work as well as organic pads when they are cold, so you need to be a bit wary of the first couple of stops. Conversely they do work well when hot. Occasionally the weak link in semi-metallic pads is the bonding material that holds the friction pad to the backing plate. There have been occasions where the friction material has come away completely. That's infrequent though.

 

Metallic

 

These pads are typically reserved for racing or the extremely rich. They squeal and dust like crazy, are hard on rotors and don't work well when cold.

 

Ceramic

 

Ceramic pads still have metal fibers (about 15% vs. about 40% for semi-metallic) but they are copper instead of steel and therefore cause less wear and transfer heat better. They don't fade as easily as other pads, cool faster, last longer, and are effectively silent, as the sound they genereate is outside of the human range of hearing. Dogs will go crazy though. The dust created by ceramic pads is also very light in color so your wheels look cleaner.

 

SOURCE: The Brake Bible (see link here: <a href="http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html" target="_blank">http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html</a> )

 

FWIW (Part II), The site at the above link covers brake fundamentals very well (IMHO), has helpful illustrations, and lots of interesting commentary with illustrations (again) on both current and future brake design that apply to both motorcycles and cars, see author notes in his opening "obligatory disclaimer". B)

Posted

For any/all Brembo parts/new (pads, calipers, master cylinders, etc.) or upgrades needed, be happy to be of service; http://www.guzzitech.com/store/Brembo-Store.html

 

I've used EBC HH for many years racing, however I haven't in the last several, but the last set I ran was very hard on the Brembo friction disks. Running Brembo pads on Brembo rotors has proven best bet... and unless Greg can give you a better price of $42/per disk on the EBCs, I've got the Brembo pads in stock. Feel free/please ping me direct.

 

As robbiekb (formerly of SoCal, now in NorCal) stated, "Todd's current Jackal upgraded Brembo set up makes a mockery of the V11S set up, even with my 'upgraded' non-Brembo rotors and pads..."

 

Forgot to link this from 10.26.03; http://www.guzzitech.com/Brembo-Upgrades-Todd_E.html

Posted
If you have opportunity to ride enough to wear out your disks, rejoice, for you are a lucky man!

That I am. Third set now. Nearing the 200k Guzzi mile mark since '00. 127k on Mad-Max Jack.

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