mznyc Posted October 31, 2007 Posted October 31, 2007 Hi SK, Here's a link to a thread I started a while ago when I blew my starter solenoid.Your symptoms don't leave me to believe that that's the problem.Check it out there are some great how to procedures from our members in it.PM me if you need more help,I have some emails from Pyro Dan that were of great help also. Michael http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=9961&hl=
emry Posted October 31, 2007 Posted October 31, 2007 But a voltmeter on the battery. Should have at least 12.25 with the key off. Turn the key on, if the voltage drops below 10.5 volts most electrial circuits will not operate, ie ECM. It is fairly common to have a battery loose one cell, but be still be able to be read over 12 volts, after a charge due to its surface charge. Appling a load will quickly drop the battery to its true level. Remeber that a light bulb (headlight) will illuminate with very low voltage, so that is not a very good indication of charge. Be very careful jump starting your bike. Most bike electronics do not take kindly to high voltage levels. Many starter / chargers can put out over 15 volts in starter mode, this can quickly fry expensive parts. Many car alternators can also put out 14.5 volts which I have seen cause problems also.
slowkitty Posted November 7, 2007 Author Posted November 7, 2007 Great stuff; got my relays from Dan within a week from order; when i'm halfway around the world I think that is darn impressive!!!!!!!!! So do I swap all of the 4-pin and 5-pins relays for Dan's? Yes, rather basic question, but better safe than sorry. Cheers Cat
Guest Phil_P Posted November 7, 2007 Posted November 7, 2007 Great stuff; got my relays from Dan within a week from order; when i'm halfway around the world I think that is darn impressive!!!!!!!!! So do I swap all of the 4-pin and 5-pins relays for Dan's? Yes, rather basic question, but better safe than sorry. Cheers Cat Yes, swap them all. That way you have a pool of decent relays you can swap around should the need arise. I'd also keep a couple of spares.
slowkitty Posted November 9, 2007 Author Posted November 9, 2007 Appreciate the advice ... will do so as soon as my mechanic decides to return to work, he is away and my ride is locked up in his shop. The plot continues ............. Cheers Cat
cgalardi Posted January 17, 2008 Posted January 17, 2008 Appreciate the advice ... will do so as soon as my mechanic decides to return to work, he is away and my ride is locked up in his shop. The plot continues ............. Cheers Cat Have you had the battery load tested? Same symptoms as the new AGM battery I had in my Jackal. Take the battery to an auto parts or battery store and have it load tested. My brand new AGM battery failed the load test. New battery sent, problem resolved.
slowkitty Posted January 31, 2008 Author Posted January 31, 2008 Just to complete the plot ...... ........ it was the battery. New battery, just runit thru the charger to be on the safe side. Fired up nice. New relays stillin package so it was not the relays. Cheers Cat
Ryland3210 Posted February 1, 2008 Posted February 1, 2008 The one clue I want to respond to is the neutral light going off when attempting to start, and then slowly coming back on. If you were not holding the start button on while the light was slowly coming back on, it sounds like a loose connection to the battery, or a very weak battery. Relays can buzz if the circuit is trying to energize them with a weak battery. What happens is that when the relay turns on, it drags the battery voltage down, so it turns off. But then the battery is not loaded as much, so the voltage climbs back up and energizes the relay. The cycle repeats itself and causes the buzz. Bingo!
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