Nasty Hiccup

[Ryland3210]

I'm ready to ship Omron high reliability relays!

 

I'm happy to say I have Dan Pruneske's blessing. I didn't want to interfere with his livelihood, so I offered to supply him as an exclusive distributor. Dan declined because he does not want to add to his retail business. He's making $150/hour on CE consulting, and it isn't worth it to him to expand it and take more of his time. On top of that, he has plenty of outside activities. Dan even offered to set up a link to my website once I get some info on the relays there. He's a good man. My field is mechanical, electrical and hydraulic, which depend on the U.S. manufacturing base. That's been declining fast since China was given most favored nations status, so I'm hungry.

 

Interestingly, Dan's view on specs is pretty sceptical. He gave me no pushback on the relay comparison I did. He feels manufacturers can put out any specs they want. In my case, I believe Japanese and U.S. makers are more credible than the notorious Chinese.

 

My introductory pricing is $8 for the sealed version and $5 for the unsealed for my friends on this forum that have waiting patiently. I can only offer the SPDT version, which will work in all positions. This is basically at my cost. If volume builds, I'll keep the prices at that level. If not, I will consider raising prices later on. Shipping and packing cost will be $5.00 regardless of quantity, because I can fit lots of them in the US Postal Service mailer.

 

Please send check or money order payable to Matra Inc., addressed to:

 

John Mickowski

50 Walling Road

Warwick, NY 10990

 

Remember to include your shipping address and how many of each type.

 

Thanks for your patience.

[docc]

I'm in. Check's in the mail. No really . . .

[Skeeve]

I'm ready to ship Omron high reliability relays!

...

My introductory pricing is $8 for the sealed version and $5 for the unsealed for my friends on this forum that have waiting patiently.

 

Mind explaining the difference btw the sealed & unsealed in ordinary terms for those of us who're generally unfamiliar w/ relays to begin with [preferably using small words?]

[lavrgs]

Post the details on how you would like to get paid...do you take chickens or oxen?

 

Paypal, check etc

[Ryland3210]

Post the details on how you would like to get paid...do you take chickens or oxen?

 

Paypal, check etc

 

I'm not set up for Paypal, but as W.C. Fields once said, "I like children, girl children, between 18 and 21". Alternatively, here goes:

 

My introductory pricing is $8 for the sealed version and $5 for the unsealed for my friends on this forum that have waiting patiently. I can only offer the SPDT version, which will work in all positions. This is basically at my cost. If volume builds, I'll keep the prices at that level. If not, I will consider raising prices later on. Shipping and packing cost will be $5.00 regardless of quantity, because I can fit lots of them in the US Postal Service mailer.

 

Please send check or money order payable to Matra Inc., addressed to:

 

John Mickowski

50 Walling Road

Warwick, NY 10990

 

Remember to include your shipping address and how many of each type.

[Ryland3210]

Mind explaining the difference btw the sealed & unsealed in ordinary terms for those of us who're generally unfamiliar w/ relays to begin with [preferably using small words?]

 

The sealed version has epoxy around the base of the metal terminals where they go through the plastic base of the relay. Water reaching contacts will eventually cause corrosion.

 

In the location on my '04 Cafe Sport, for example, the relays are mounted terminals downwards in a locaton protected well from rain. The unsealed version will probably be just fine in that location, unless you like to power wash your bike and think you might blast that area. That's why I decided to offer both versions.

 

There is no advantage to the unsealed version except they cost less. I'm going with the sealed version on my bike because the $3 extra is "cheap insurance" in my view. I plan to replace all my relays with these to reduce the chance of any breakdown on the road, and keep one or two of the original ones on hand as spares. Of course, there is nothing wrong with buying an extra Omron as a spare, and that's the smart way to go. If I wasn't the type to keep baloney skin spare tires in my cars, I probably would.

 

Cheers, John

[docc]

The Sport's nasty hiccup has returned.

This occurred right after I changed the oil temperature sensor holder and the idle dropped about 300 rpm. I have reset the TPS, balanced the throttle bodies and am within 3000 miles of my last (006/008 ) valve adjustment.

I swapped the Bosch relays back into the FI and ECU slots one at a time, added Techron fuel system cleaner, tweaked the idle up a little higher: no good: still hiccups!

It doesn't want to idle where I put it (effectively 1100 rpm; indicated 1400 on my tach); it drizzles down to an indicated 1050 ( an actual 850). I can reproduce the hiccup (like it fails to fire one cylinder, or drops the ignition signal) by cracking the throttle ever so slightly like you would do to slip the clutch starting off slowly.


Leaving for the South'n Spine Raid in two days, this does not bode well.

The basics: 2000 V11 Sport Telaio Rosso, 55,000 miles, Guzzi cf (Mistral) cannisters, K&N in the stock box, numerous crimps-splices-hard wires-additional relays-and-fuseholders.

What is your edict, oh Man-Behind-the-Curtain?

[Greg Field]

Have you looked for an air leak? It's possible this is a new problem, rather than a return of an old problem caused by relays.

[docc]

Good advice. Certainly, the relays made no difference swapping them around.

 

I went back to the plastic sensor holder and there *seemed* to be an immediate improvement. I'll try to put some miles on it tomorrow to be sure.

 

I 'll spray the intakes and look for a change, but it's rather intermittent compared to what I experienced when the rubber intake split . . .

[dlaing]

The basics: 2000 V11 Sport Tellaio Rosso, 55,000 miles, Guzzi cf (Mistral) cannisters, K&N in the stock box, numerous crimps-splices-hard wires-additional relays-and-fuseholders.

No Power Commander?

Bike with Mistrals and no PCIII will likely run a little lean, and something else going slightly off could make it run TOO LEAN.

Other symptoms you have had are overheated charging fuse and faulty (GEI) injector relay.

Two days away from ride and all I can offer is a bunch of possibilities.

If Fuel pump is working too hard, maybe trying to push fuel past clogged filter, it may put more load on charging system and on injector relay, and it MAY run leaner, especially at higher RPMs and loads, but also at idle when voltage drops.

So, consider replacing fuel filter if more than two years old, although dirty bad fuel knows no mileage.

All very theoretical, I know...feel free to ignore. I don't think there has been one documented case of problems from a dirty filter. But you may have the most miles on your bike of anyone on this forum ( but a real iron butt would make it to the national rally!!! )

Certainly probable are the air leak as Greg said, or even too tight of valves, even if only 3000 miles since last adjustment.

[docc]

The fuel filter was replaced last June, (5650 miles). The valves were set 0.006/0.008 3100 miles ago. It certainly may have lean spots (especially in the midrange), but based on the sooty pipes, plug color and watery eyes of following riders, she's always seemed to run a bit on the fat side.

 

After spraying the intakes with solvent (thinking the idle may have increased slightly), I wrapped the rubber intakes with electrical tape. I couldn't move the throttle bodies back far enough to get them off (I have an extra) due to the middle frame brace I added to the Red Frame (maybe that's why they quit using them!).

 

Upon restarting the Sport wouldn't keep running at all!!

 

Very frustrating. I theorized I'd let it heat sink from running it too much without moving or using a fan. I cooled the pump and intake line and it started and ran. I tightened the intake clamps further.

 

 

It may be that the clamps had simply loosened over time and needed to be snugged up. I seem to recall Ratchet mentioning this before.

 

I won't know until tomorrow when I can get it out on the road and see how it acts.

 

And, yes, if you touch the cylinder with your fingers it gives you a second degree burn.

[raz]

I went back to the plastic sensor holder and there *seemed* to be an immediate improvement.

That makes no sense other than there may be a borderline connection that was wiggled. Try cleaning the connector for the sensor. If you have means to measure the sensor all the way from the ECU connector that would be best.

A bad connection to the sensor should make the ECU think the engine is arctic cold. That should make it very rich, and I don't think it fits your sympthoms. Easy check anyway.

[dlaing]

That makes no sense other than there may be a borderline connection that was wiggled. Try cleaning the connector for the sensor. If you have means to measure the sensor all the way from the ECU connector that would be best.

A bad connection to the sensor should make the ECU think the engine is arctic cold. That should make it very rich, and I don't think it fits your sympthoms. Easy check anyway.

He means he went from the brass sensor housing to the plastic sensor housing, which SHOULD make the engine run richer, and thus seem to be an immediate improvement.

More evidence of the overly lean condition.

Docc,

Since valves and fuel filter are probably fine, maybe the TPS slipped. A quick try with the Micha Method could get you running again. If idle TPS is between 500 and 550mV with key on, engine off, you might not want to mess with it just yet, but if outside that range, it may have slipped.

When you tried to slip off the intake boots, the throttle balance may have slipped, as well as the idle TPS reading, and air leaks may have increased. Make sure boots are properly fitted...I know you probably did, but how else would it get worse?.

Could fuel lines be pinched and the movement further pinched the fuel lines?

[docc]

I really think it vapor locked while I was putzing around with it in the garage.

 

I'm hopeful that the clamps for the intakes were loose and it's now running perfectly again. I'll try it this afternoon.

 

I agree with Raz, changing the holder should have made no difference. And, in reality, it may not have. It was simply the last thing I changed before the problem showed up.

 

I she runs clean, Ill change the holder back to the brass and see what happens . . .

 

I sure appreciate all the help and replies! You guys rock!

[andy york]

docc

 

call me

 

andy