Nasty Hiccup

[Zooter]

Andy found the CO leaned out considerably and zeroed it out with the VDSTS. The Sport runs so much better now, it's really amazing!At this point, I don't know how many threads to tie together: Popping/ sputtering/ melted regulator fuses/ throttle bodies/ lean condition/ unstable idle . . .Over the past several years I have chased a problem with the main ( 30 amp regulator ) fuse heating up (melting, without 'blowing' and otherwise getting *HOT*). I moved it out of the fuse block where the contacts are minimal and soldered in an in-line fuse holder for a 30 amp ATO/ATC fuse.Twice, now, this fuse has gotten so hot as to burn off its contacts (without blowing the fuse).Routinely, this fuse has run temperatures of 130-175 degrees Fahrenheit.Having had the popping/sputtering, marginal charging and lean condition - I found it astounding how the Sport ran after changing the regulator fuse to a full size "MAXI" fuse. (Fahrenheit temperature: 95-105)I've 59,000 miles on this bike and have a good sense of its 'changes.' I'll keep you posted how this goes . . .

more photo bucket pics I can't see, anyone else?

 

[edit 30 June 2017: In the process of hosting all of my posted images on ImgZeit]

[docc]

I'm no expert on this, but I can see them (of course, they're my pics).

 

Anyone have a solution? Browser settings? OS compatibility?

[czakky]

they show up for me too...

[Kiwi_Roy]

I started reading this thread then realized I was reading posts from 2008 so I skipped to page 8

 

I have been buying regular Omrons from Digikey made in USA or in the case of the last batch made in Italy

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/G8HN-1C2T-R%20DC12/Z2247-ND/765512

http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/PDFLIB.nsf/0/A140CFCA6C49AD6685257201007DD4E2/$file/G8HN_0607.pdf

 

Things I have discovered

Relay No 5 ECU Power relay

The fuel pump draws about 4.5 amps unless the fuel filters blocked where it can draw about 9

Each injector will draw 1 amp

Each coil will draw 17 Amps

That all adds up to 22.5 Amps 

 

The relay base connectors build up a little resistance with time, you should pull them out and put back at least once a year, this gives the pins a bit of a scratch to get rid of any oxide, I smear the base with a little Vaseline so the pins draw it into the connector.

The nature of coils (ignition and injectors) makes me think you need a really good connection to get a fast rise time on the voltage 

 

Relay No 1 (Start relay)

This will draw 50 amps, it's simple Ohms Law but only for a split second, not a problem for the Omron. I'm sure you are all aware of "Startus Interuptus" caused by Luigi wiring other Guzzi start relays in series with the ignition switch, he got our spine frame bikes right IMHO

 

Relay No 2 (Headlight relay)

On my 2001 the contact was fed from the Normally Closed contact of the Start relay, other bikes just use the Start relay to switch the Headlight relay coil.

Since the base connectors can build up a little resistance this can throw off the Ducati Energia Voltage regulator which measures the Voltage downstream to control the battery Voltage upstream.

 

I don't believe coil suppression is an issue, the coils should not be switching at all while you are riding. (the Omrons have a resistor) As someone pointed out Luigi wasn't very fussy where he put positive.

 

I believe Luigi did a good job on the ECU wiring, powering it direct from the battery through a pair of relays.

It's very important that relay 4 never drops out, this will cause the ECU to reset, I have seen the Voltage on mine flickering away on several occasions as the stand switch sizzles. I have the stand relay bypassed at the moment

Another time I experienced it dropping out when the ignition switch resistance was too high.

 

Here's what I did with mine over the first winter, created a little light show

http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/Relay%20LEDs

You can easily create a Test Relay to move from slot to slot

 

 

Last of all here is how you can tighten up the relay sockets, be careful, if you break the connectors they aren't easy to find.

I helped fix a bike recently where one of the connectors had come unclipped, it was just making contact due to the spring in the wire.

[docc]

On 12/30/2014 at 6:30 AM, Kiwi_Roy said:

 ".  .  .  I have the stand relay bypassed at the moment  .  .  ."

 

All good medicine, again, Kiwi_Roy!

 

Just a comment to try and clarify the two circuits that power the "Run Switch" - The power to run while underway comes through the Sidestand Switch (which seems pretty vulnerable down there on the leading edge in the spray), OR Relay #3 (center relay) that I prefer to call the "Neutral Relay" since it is energized by the Neutral Switch for power to run while the stand is down and the gearbox is in neutral.

 

So, have you bypassed the Sidestand switch (connected the wires together)and simply removed Relay#3 ?

[Kiwi_Roy]

At the moment I just have a length of wire stuffed in 30 to 87 of the relay socket.

For some reason I am reluctant to change the wiring, if I find a good side-stand switch I will re-instate it, perhaps a magnet activated reed switch thus avoiding the chance of future corrosion

I agree, it is really the Neutral relay

[docc]

30 to 87 simply carries current through to the Run Switch without energizing the coil, yes?

 

I try to spray some electronics cleaner up into the sidestand switch and coat it over with Petroleum jelly, but I never feel like it really does anything.

 

AFAIR, no one has ever dissected the sidestand switch to consider its innards and remediation options . . .

[Kiwi_Roy]

Yes, just jumped the contacts, left the relay out, another quick fix is to wrap a strand of wire figure 8 fashion around 30, 87 & 87A pins of the relay and put it back (I include 87A because some other Guzzi models use that pin instead of 87)

 

Just looking at the Digikey site (sorry I can't copy the link from here), trace it back from my relay link

Switches / Magnetic, reed switches I see a bunch of 1 Amp reed switches that would be perfect for the stand switch, the relays and petcock add up to about 750mA

Expensive though about $1.50 each. The glass switch could be potted into a length of non ferrous tube activated by a magnet on the stand to make a really rugged switch, typically reed switches are rated in billions of operations, I use one as a pickup for the speedo.

 

Part No 374-1043-1-ND, HE133-ND or 374-1070-1-ND for example

[Zooter]

[quge come unclipped, it was

testing

 

Edit, I replaced [img= with , still doesn't work for me but it makes the same blue ? Img box

[Kiwi_Roy]

Zooter,

            I think you may be trying to post an image, I sent you a PM

Roy

[czakky]

I see the image....

[docc]

In  order to comply with the instructions from my regulator supplier, I have been disconnecting the regulator from the battery while using an external charger by opening the circuit breaker manually. A trusted friend told me circuit breakers should not be used that way. Am I ruining it?

[MartyNZ]

In order to comply with the instructions from my regulator supplier, I have been disconnecting the regulator from the battery while using an external charger by opening the circuit breaker manually. A trusted friend told me circuit breakers should not be used that way. Am I ruining it?

Those circuit breakers are designed to act as both a cb & a maintenance switch. That's why there is a rim on the head, so you can pull it. You are not ruining it.

[docc]

"maintenance switch" . . . great concept. That is exactly how I am using it.

[Lucky Phil]

In  order to comply with the instructions from my regulator supplier, I have been disconnecting the regulator from the battery while using an external charger by opening the circuit breaker manually. A trusted friend told me circuit breakers should not be used that way. Am I ruining it?

No docc, been pulling breakers on jet aircraft for 40 years as part of safety isolation when working on systems. The manual tells me to do that, totally fine.

 

Ciao