lavrgs Posted November 4, 2007 Posted November 4, 2007 I adjusted the the valves on my recently purchased 2002 LeMans...it was a mild pain getting the alternator cover off because the screws aren't accesible -- only one was a problem and to get it off and I had to loosen the oil cooler...I'm fishing for tips here... The fairing is easy to loosen and just a mild pain to work around but in about an hour and a half I had everything ready to adjust...good thing I don't have a crossover up front... I planned to torque the heads but I check ed the valves before just to see what I was dealing with ...I had a considerable clatter but had thought it was "normal" after reading this forum. The measurements ranged from 0.010" to 0.015" - not sure which spec that comforms to ...so I adjusted them to 0.004/0.006. I can see I will need to make up some kind of alingment tool to get all the washers and springs to line up to ease the reinstall of the rocker pins... So the first valve adjust took about 2 1/2 hours - a bit longer than I would have guessed but generally painless. The difference in the performance is huge...no that would be HUGE... most noticeable is take off - much crisper and of course the valve clatter is much reduced. Next job;changing all the fluids...
pete roper Posted November 4, 2007 Posted November 4, 2007 I adjusted the the valves on my recently purchased 2002 LeMans...it was a mild pain getting the alternator cover off because the screws aren't accesible -- only one was a problem and to get it off and I had to loosen the oil cooler...I'm fishing for tips here... The fairing is easy to loosen and just a mild pain to work around but in about an hour and a half I had everything ready to adjust...good thing I don't have a crossover up front... I planned to torque the heads but I check ed the valves before just to see what I was dealing with ...I had a considerable clatter but had thought it was "normal" after reading this forum. The measurements ranged from 0.010" to 0.015" - not sure which spec that comforms to ...so I adjusted them to 0.004/0.006. I can see I will need to make up some kind of alingment tool to get all the washers and springs to line up to ease the reinstall of the rocker pins... So the first valve adjust took about 2 1/2 hours - a bit longer than I would have guessed but generally painless. The difference in the performance is huge...no that would be HUGE... most noticeable is take off - much crisper and of course the valve clatter is much reduced. Next job;changing all the fluids... Re torquing the heads isn't really necessary unless the heads have been off. Although the factory recommends it at the 1st service they are always over-torqued at the factory and I've yet to see a 'Leaker' if they aren't done. Once they have been done re-checking them is a l-o-n-g term service item. I would check mine every 5 years or so on my old Tonti's! As for valve adjustments? You don't have to remove the rockers to adjust the valves????. Also if you have some sort of shop stand just get the rear wheel off the ground, take the plugs out and stick the bike in top gear and pull the engine round with the wheel to find TDC. Much simpler than all the farting about taking alternator covers off. If you don't have a stand you can simply wheel the bike forward or back in 6th with the rocker covers off until you find TDC but it's much easier with a stand. You'll find that when you do take the rocker pins out lining up all the washers and springs etc. for reinstallation is one of those things that practice makes perfect. It's really not a big deal and doen't merit any special alignment tool. If you are re-torquing the heads though loosen the adjusters before you take the rockers off as if the gaskets do compress a bit if they aren't loosened the pins won't want to go back in. Pete
lavrgs Posted November 4, 2007 Author Posted November 4, 2007 I wouldn't normally retorque the heads as part of a valve adjust but I checked one of the nuts that was visible and it turned a bit, so I went ahead and pulled everything just to be sure. Yes on the using the rear wheel for turning the engine - that would be much easier.. This months Bike of the Month is using an interesting rear stand - what is it?
callison Posted November 5, 2007 Posted November 5, 2007 I don't know what the rear stand is but the front stand is a Pit Bull. Pit Bulls "New Front Stand" looks to be a re-issue/improvement? of their first stand which I have one of. It's a magnificent piece of work and I have the rear stand that goes with it. When they come out with something for the Norge, I'll have to ante up again.
twhitaker Posted November 5, 2007 Posted November 5, 2007 In most cases it's easier to remove the fairing completely rather than loosening the area you need to get around. I think the procedure is listed in the 'How To' section under 'Removing the fairing the EEEAAASSSYYY way!' 6 screws 2 mirrors 2 turn signal electric connectors
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