Muffler mounting problem

[Ryland3210]

I have been unable to push my new Staintune mufflers on the exhaust pipe.

 

Getting the original mufflers off was a bit of a challenge, but no big deal.

 

Evidently the Staintune I.D. is a little smaller. Here's what I have tried so far:

Attempt one: Try mounting it out of tbe box-no way.

 

Attempt two: Dremel with wire wheel to make the Staintune's I.D. totally smooth.

Cleaned mating parts with naphtha and coated with never sieze. Only could get on halfway.

Rotated the muffler while on the exhaust pipe to detect any out of round condition-no apparent problem that way.

 

Attempt three: Filed the exhaust pipe O.D. end to a 10 degree chamfer (approx.)

Wiped off never seize, coated exhaust pipe with Lithium grease,

Heated the Staintune end with a propane torch.

It went on about 60% quick and easy, then locked up solid within 2 seconds before I could get it all the way on, as the mating parts equalized temperature.

 

I'd rather not extend the slots on the lovely Staintunes or add ones to the exhaust pipes.

 

There aren't any readily available friendly outfits with swaging equipment nearby.

 

I'm disappointed in Staintunes at this point. They are the most expensive on the planet for this application. I expected no such problems. <_>

 

On the lighter side, I took a very short ride with no mufflers. The sound was awesome! A deep rumble at idle and a major howl at higher RPM's. Not too bad at cruise, either, until you hit the throttle and blast off! It looks cool, too, with the pipes pointed out and back, like it was made that way on purpose. Once I get the Staintunes on, airbox modified, my plan is to get a PCIII and get it dyno tuned. Then I'll feel safe trying that again at the next local biker night. These events bring the open pipe blasters out. It would be fun to drop in with mine.

 

Has anyone an alternative suggestion to get the Staintunes fitted so I can also get them off later on, if need be?

[Guest ratchethack]

John, though you noted that there are no outfits with swaging equipment nearby, your local (or not s local, as the case may be) muffler shop deals with this countless times every day. They have a hydraulic expander (don't know what they call it, but I've watched 'em do it many times on my stuff, both auto and moto) that will give just the right amount of expansion for a good fit.

 

Good luck.

[Ryland3210]

John, though you noted that there are no outfits with swaging equipment nearby, your local (or not s local, as the case may be) muffler shop deals with this countless times every day. They have a hydraulic expander (don't know what they call it, but I've watched 'em do it many times on my stuff, both auto and moto) that will give just the right amount of expansion for a good fit.

 

Good luck.

 

I've seen those hydraulic expanders used to swage and compress hydraulic tubing, but I haven't been to a muffler shop for at least 20 years. Thanks for reminding me. That's a winner.

 

I figure 10 thousandths should do it. This is stainless, so it's more brittle than mild steel.

 

Once I find a cooperative shop, I'll take the bike over there on my trailer to make it just right, taking it 5 thousandths at a time.

 

That's got to work. Thank you!

[Guest ratchethack]

Yes I'm mindful of the critical difference here. IMHO, this amount of expansion is well below the threshold of any prob. Get your muffler guy to acknowledge the diff between stainless and mild steel and have him explain it to your satisfaction before proceding -- just for peace of mind, and Bob's y'er Uncle. I'd expect he's seen this one a few times before. . .

[Greg Field]

Ryland:

 

I had that problem with a set of Mistrals. At my local NAPA store, I got one of the expaners Ratchet speaks of for about $18. It worked great. Good luck!

[Ryland3210]

I realize that you may not want to hear from me on this, but this type of situation PISSES ME OFF. The mufflers should FIT, and that's that. They aren't made properly. This is exactly why I do not prefer aftermarket accessories. Time is $, and I would've returned them if elbow grease and WD40 didn't get them on, unless you got them for a song. Obviously you really want the Staintunes.

 

I bought them from a dealer, but they were used, and one was scratched. Frankly, had I not gotten a pretty attractive discount, I would have bought another brand, new. I liked the advantages of the stainless steel wool, and removeable baffles.

 

You're absolutely right that they should fit, but this was a special case, and I knew what I was getting into.

[Ryland3210]

Ryland:

 

I had that problem with a set of Mistrals. At my local NAPA store, I got one of the expaners Ratchet speaks of for about $18. It worked great. Good luck!

 

Thanks, Greg. I didn't realize expanders could be bought so cheap. I'll remember that next time. Earlier today, acting on Ratchethack's suggestion, a local friendly muffler shop used his hydraulic expander with no problem. It turns out that whatever stainless Staintune uses is pretty mild. They only needed about 10 thou' expansion.

 

I had taken careful measurements of the exhaust pipes before marching off to the muffler shop. It turns out they were about 0.010" egg-shaped, and the Staintunes had been compressed by the previous person clamping them down hard.

 

The minimal expansion did the trick, took all of 1 minute for both, and no charge. Next time I need a custom exhaust system I'll be back there!

 

One thing I learned is that the hydraulic expanders used by the two local muffler shops I spoke to are not calibrated. They worked simply by pressure and flow controlled by a lever. Really crude. If I had it to do over again, I would buy a mechanical expander to get a precise expansion. I'm amazed that the ones used by these muffler shops have no way to physically control the size they are expanding to. Expanding my mufflers the small amount necessary was a most delicate matter with these overpowered machines.

 

Bottom line is that new Staintunes probably fit fine out of the box. Can't say I like the mirror finish, but I'm sure that will go away with time. Now I'm in the market for a airbox cover elimination ring, and it's off to Dynajet.

[BRENTTODD]

Be careful with a cheap expander they sometimes make the pipe out of round. I would go down to your local garage and see if you can beg to borrow a good one if not. Find out what day snap-on guy shows up and buy one from him there is a differnce. Use it and u can tell if u dont want it when your done sell it on e-bay. If you were closer i give you mine. good luck

[BRENTTODD]

Be careful with a cheap expander they sometimes make the pipe out of round. I would go down to your local garage and see if you can beg to borrow a good one if not. Find out what day snap-on guy shows up and buy one from him there is a differnce. Use it and u can tell if u dont want it when your done sell it on e-bay. If you were closer i give you mine. good luck

 

i should have read all the posts sorry. As for crude things in an automotive shop that just the begining after we make them to big we clamp them down so hard the clamp almost breaks. That just how its done.

[Guest ratchethack]

Glad to hear it worked out well, John. My experience has been that them muffler boys got "precision" feel on that thing from lots of experience...

 

Now I'm in the market for a airbox cover elimination ring, and it's off to Dynajet.

 

FYI -- If you're at all handy with such things, you can cobble-up an airbox top eliminator PDQ. Here's mine, about a 20 minute fabrication, if memory serves (see below).

 

FWIW, I found the intake roar nothing short of excruciating.

 

The airbox snorkels went back on immediately, and it's been on ever since. . .

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[Ryland3210]

i should have read all the posts sorry. As for crude things in an automotive shop that just the begining after we make them to big we clamp them down so hard the clamp almost breaks. That just how its done.

 

I think our posts crossed in the "mail".

 

I appreciate the warning about cheap clamps.

[Ryland3210]

Glad to hear it worked out well, John. My experience has been that them muffler boys got "precision" feel on that thing from lots of experience...

 

 

 

FYI -- If you're at all handy with such things, you can cobble-up an airbox eliminator PDQ. Here's mine, about a 20 minute fabrication, if memory serves (see below).

 

FWIW, I found the intake roar nothing short of excruciating.

 

The airbox snorkels went back on immediately, and it's been on ever since. . .

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

 

Nice job. It looks real professional. I could easily handle the fabrication, but your 20 minutes to result in such a nice job would take me a lot longer. Fast by Ferracci sells the rings for $33. No way I could justify DIY at that price.

 

I'm surprised its sound is so objectionable, given that the tank is surrounding it.

[Guest ratchethack]

I'm surprised its sound is so objectionable, given that the tank is surrounding it.

Low frequency sound pulses are non-directional. Proximity is the key, and on the bike, you're, umm, proximal.

 

OTOH, by the posts of at least several others, it doesn't seem to be objectionable.

[Ryland3210]

Low frequency sound pulses are non-directional. Proximity is the key, and on the bike, you're, umm, proximal.

 

OTOH, by the posts of at least several others, it doesn't seem to be objectionable.

 

I suspect not everyone has the skills to be riding around 90% of the time at 3/4 to max throttle, as I suspect you might.

[Guest ratchethack]

I suspect not everyone has the skills to be riding around 90% of the time at 3/4 to max throttle, as I suspect you might.

Not hardly. I'm strictly a Road Geez.

 

I can probably count the number of times I've actually hit WOT -- for a second or 2 at least! -- on one hand.

 

I find that I DO, however, make full use of the entire rev range on a fairly consistent basis.

 

I found the sound pressure with open airbox top starts to bore into the skull starting at mid-throttle at 5K. From there on up, without earplugs, it's like dual dental drills on the tympanic nerves.