oil filters

[rac]

hi all

do i use original oil filters or pattern

the bike is a v11 sport .

what companys make a filter ?

thanks rc.

[BRENTTODD]

There is a lot of companys who make an oil filter that fit. It is the same as most common Toyota oil filters wix or napa #1348 or 21348 or 61348. Make sure you read the thread about using a hose clamp on the filter thats very important. Good luck

[Ryland3210]

Also read the thread on filter tightening in the How To section.

 

The Purolator equivalent is L10241.

[dlaing]

Here is a list:

 

The OEM filter is the UFI 2328700

 

Fram PH3614 will fit but construction is questioable.

 

WalMart sells the SuperTech ST3614 for around $3-$4 (vs $15 for the Guzzi UFI filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to clean it and remove the decal on the filter before you install it.

(Tip from Tracy Martin, off of the Wildguzzi.com site)

 

Some more expensive options are Amsoil EAOM132 and K&N KN-163

 

My current first choice, due to a good gasket design and other excellent ratings, is the Purolator L10241

(as recommended by Ryland)

[twhitaker]

I've been known to use a Mobil 1 M1-102 in mine.

[Guest ratchethack]

WalMart sells the SuperTech ST3614 for around $3-$4 (vs $15 for the Guzzi UFI filter). This filter is made by Champion labs, is better constructed than a Fram, and has a 94% multiple pass efficiency rating. Just be sure to clean it and remove the decal on the filter before you install it.

CORRECTIONS per previous posts (search on "economy of scale"):

 

SuperTech (Wally World, aka Walmart) ST3614

Made by Champion Laboratories

98% single pass efficiency

99% multi-pass efficiency

patent pending combo nitrile relief and anti-drainback valve

High quality, high reliability.

The high value choice

~$2, USD

 

[rac]

hi

just read the response ,thanks . as for the tightening of the filter ,sounds a nightmare to do . so you spin them up by hand then us a proper mg filter key to nip them up .correct ? .

[Guest ratchethack]

hi

just read the response ,thanks . as for the tightening of the filter ,sounds a nightmare to do . so you spin them up by hand then us a proper mg filter key to nip them up .correct ? .

The history of dozens upon dozens of posts on the subject here have been rife with theories, extrapolations, conjecture, speculation, analysis, and folly borne of various combinations of qualified knowledge and abject ignorance aplenty on oil filter tightening. IMHO, best follow the instructions USUALLY provided with the filter. Invariably, the OEM instructions specify number of turns past contact with (in the case of the V11 Guzzi) the oil pressure relief valve assembly.

 

Some have chosen to add a hose clamp as an extra measure of insurance against backing off. This means you have to have the sump off for greater access. Wot's this insurance worth to you in terms of effort??

 

Now this is just me, but I simply follow the OEM directions, as always. Never had a problem doing this with a dozen moto's, nor several dozen cars, trucks, vans, etc. Don't live in fear of my filter backing off at any point in the future, either. Yep, I bet my Guzzi on it.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[rac]

hi

thanks ,think i will buy an oil key and tighten as directed .hopefully have no problems ,fingers crossed , trolled though the pages and wondered what i have bought for a minute.also mentioned about added a little extra oil to stop starvation under hard acceleration.

[Dan M]

The history of dozens upon dozens of posts on the subject here have been rife with theories, extrapolations, conjecture, speculation, analysis, and folly borne of various combinations of qualified knowledge and abject ignorance aplenty on oil filter tightening. IMHO, best follow the instructions USUALLY provided with the filter. Invariably, the OEM instructions specify number of turns past contact with (in the case of the V11 Guzzi) the oil pressure relief valve assembly.

 

Some have chosen to add a hose clamp as an extra measure of insurance against backing off. This means you have to have the sump off for greater access. Wot's this insurance worth to you in terms of effort??

 

Now this is just me, but I simply follow the OEM directions, as always. Never had a problem doing this with a dozen moto's, nor several dozen cars, trucks, vans, etc. Don't live in fear of my filter backing off at any point in the future, either. Yep, I bet my Guzzi on it.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

 

Never used a clamp, never had a loose filter, never think about it until the next change when I notice that it is still tight.

[Ryland3210]

An update on the turns: I just changed my filter yesterday, as it happens. I use the Purolator L10241. Its gasket design permits 1 and 1/8 turns from first contact, and even more. At that point it's really tight, and this definitely requires a filter wrench. You will need a wrench to get it off next time as well. When you buy a filter, make sure you get the exact right size sheet metal socket to fit it.

 

In taking off the previous filter, which had been put on the same way, it was found still to be very tight. There are sockets made for two different sizes. I purchased one of these, and found that the smaller sized option on it would not grip the filter well enough. I had to take off the sump and use my old adjustable filter wrench. I now have the correct size one so the next time, I won't have to remove the sump.

 

Other filter designs may not permit that many turns, or even the 3/4 absolute minimum turns before they get really tight. It depends on the gasket design. The UFI filter has a torque spec on it. Its gasket design does not permit as many turns as the other alternatives. If you are using the UFI, my suggestion is to ignore the torque spec, and use the turns method as is specified by every other filter ever seen by yours truly. If you really want to go by the torque method, it is a good idea to use the hose clamp for insurance. IMHO

[dlaing]

CORRECTIONS per previous posts (search on "economy of scale"):

 

SuperTech (Wally World, aka Walmart) ST3614

Made by Champion Laboratories

98% single pass efficiency

99% multi-pass efficiency

patent pending combo nitrile relief and anti-drainback valve

High quality, high reliability.

The high value choice

~$2, USD

 

Thanks Ratchet.

I suspect your numbers are at 20 microns while the ones I have been posting since Tracy Martin enlightened me, may have been for an old version of the filter or for a rating at 15 microns.

You should head over to Walmart and see what the price is after Tax. I am pretty sure I paid closer to $3 than $2, but that may have been after tax. But then again your filters measure different than mine, so we must have bought at different times.

[Guest ratchethack]

You should head over to Walmart and see what the price is after Tax. I am pretty sure I paid closer to $3 than $2, but that may have been after tax. But then again your filters measure different than mine, so we must have bought at different times.

One of the advantages of leveraging economies of scale with certain items, as pointed out in previous threads on oil filters, like my personal philosophy on so many other high volume commodity consumer items I buy in "big box" warehouse outlets -- I can buy oil filters in lots of a half dozen, the cost of which @ 6 ea. is STILL about half the cost that my Guzzi Bruddah pays for ONE UFI filter at his dealer. This, of course, makes it convenient to stock them along with the rest of my moto spares in my home shop cabinet, so I don't have to think about timing oil changes, and I don't make many trips to a place I'd rather not be . . . . I just do oil changes when they come up on the odometer, and Bob's y'er Mum's favorite brother.

 

Come to think of it, I buy oil filters by much the same criteria as I buy bathroom tissue -- high volume commodity item, high (enough) quality, high value, low cost. Last time I replenished spares stock I believe it was around $2.10 USD before tax.

[tmcafe]

hi all

do i use original oil filters or pattern

the bike is a v11 sport .

what companys make a filter ?

thanks rc.

I just changed the oil yesterday (first service at a little over 700 mi) and saw what the UFI filter is like. So far I found the Napa filter and the ST from Wally's. Looking at the UFI and the two other ones, I didn't see any difference in favor of the substitutes as far as the gasket. In fact, the UFI had a much taller gasket, but it was inserted in the groove. But all these filters' gaskets stick off the rim about the same height. I'm still looking for the Purolator, which has a better gasket. As far as the construction, I haven't seen the inside of any, although there's a website where some of them may be shown cut open. One of the guys at Napa warned me about the construction of Purolator filters in general, but hard to put much basis on that. I'd be curious to see what's inside of any of the filters that have been used. For now, given that the ST, which I put in this time, doesn't seem any better, I tightened it more than 1 turn past the contact point.

Another thing about UFI (which can be had for about $8 from MG Cycles--of course the ST is less than $3): it is much taller than the Napa and ST, so it sticks out more through the hole. Whether that means it has more capacity, or it's better, I don't know. It may be easier to handle than the shorter ones. Also another thing: my dipstick is very close to the filter. I wonder if any of that, more so with a plastic dipstick , like mine, may not be a contributing factor, through some kind of strange vibration, to the dreaded loosening of the filters. Also you may be better off using a short filter wrench. The tall/deep metal one I got from Napa, which fits both the ST and the Napa filter, and did a reasonable impersonation of a wrench to loosen the UFI filter, actually got trapped in the dipstick because it was too tall. I got the 14-flute wrench for the Purolator too, hoping that I'll find the filter soon. Another thing I'm wondering about is the filter's anti-drainback valve pressure. Somebody may be able to explain what the difference may be.

[v50man]

I, too, get the UFI filters from MG Cycle. Reasonable @ about 8 bucks.

 

Not wanting to drop the pan at every oil change, I purchased (also from MG Cycle) the two-piece tool that makes removing and tightening the filter easy and simple.

 

Never had a problem with a loose filter.

 

I run the OEM UFI filters in both my Guzzis. They are beautifully constructed and do an extremely good job. While I'm notoriously cheap, I am anything but with my bikes. All (save the V50III because of tolerance issues) run on RedLine 20/50 -- Shockproof in the trannies. The Buell gets the same treatment, but I use the K&N oil filter on it (as I do my truck).

 

My 2 cents...