Rebuild exhibition.

[Ryland3210]

Deleted the off topic posts... <_>

 

[v11cafe]

It's clutch also bangs like a dunny door in a force 9 gale. I've NEVER heard anything like it! The bone has been pointed and I hope he pulls the bastard out and simply replaces it on spec 'cos if it lets go, with the way Rich rides, it wouldn't be a happy thing!

 

And Ratch me old china. This isn't really the place is it? I too have my views and hold them strongly but I try not to stick them down anyone else's throat on a motorbike board. Although I'm still waiting for an estimated arival date for the goat our new prime minister promised us before the election. I could be wrong, I was a bit drunk while the policy launch was on TV but I'm sure he said that if they won he's give every 'Australian Working Family' a goat. Mind you I am a bit deaf.

 

pete

My knowledge of english is very limited, to understand the new technical terms involved in Pete" s analysis of his "exhibition",

so no comments on that.

 

On the other hand , I have heard politicians promising everything to get elected, .......usually they say to people what they want to hear,....so I wonder does every Australian want a goat?????!!!!!!!

Cultural differences never stop to surprise me.

 

Συμβουλες

1/Μην πινεις οταν ψηφιζεις

2/Μην πινεις οταν φτιαχνεις Guzzi

3/Μην πινεις οταν γραφεις στο forum

4/Μην πινεις οταν αρμεγεις την κατσικα

[Ryland3210]

My knowledge of english is very limited, to understand the new technical terms involved in Pete" s analysis of his "exhibition",

so no comments on that.

 

On the other hand , I have heard politicians promising everything to get elected, .......usually they say to people what they want to hear,....so I wonder does every Australian want a goat?????!!!!!!!

Cultural differences never stop to surprise me.

 

Συμβουλες

1/Μην πινεις οταν ψηφιζεις

2/Μην πινεις οταν φτιαχνεις Guzzi

3/Μην πινεις οταν γραφεις στο forum

4/Μην πινεις οταν αρμεγεις την κατσικα

 

That's not English, it's Austraaaaalian. It's often said that we Americans are separated from the English by a common language. I need further explanation too.

[motoguzznix]

Unfortunately, or fortunately if you prefer, the dressed up crankpin didn't work and the galled up pin F@cked the new shells on one rod so I decided to strip the motor. Some of the stuff I found canbe seen on the So-Cal board. It ain't pretty.

 

Yup, it's a pain, but it'll be fixed. Just a matter of rounding up the bits.

Pete

I'm not sure if grinding paper is the right solution for a crankpin rework.

The grinding particles maybe remain in the pin material and ruin the next shell runníng on it.

The engine repair shop next to mine polishes the crank pins if there are bearing shell deposits. Worked always fine for me.

[pete roper]

I'm not sure if grinding paper is the right solution for a crankpin rework.

The grinding particles maybe remain in the pin material and ruin the next shell runníng on it.

The engine repair shop next to mine polishes the crank pins if there are bearing shell deposits. Worked always fine for me.

 

 

As long as the crank is still standard size and the nitriding is intact it will be fine, I've done it dozens of times with no ill results. A band linisher is of course a better sollution but as long as care is taken to remove all traces of abrasive material wet ' dry works fine.

 

Pete

[mznyc]

Did anyone photgraph or video tape the process?Would be of some value to members.

[g.forrest]

i think our new prime minister may have promised all working families a ''fair go'' not a fair goat. but our bungandgore

wizard does suffer from a selective hearing problem. maybe it's all those jet turbines he hears that has caused the problem!

[Ryland3210]

As long as the crank is still standard size and the nitriding is intact it will be fine, I've done it dozens of times with no ill results. A band linisher is of course a better sollution but as long as care is taken to remove all traces of abrasive material wet ' dry works fine.

 

Pete

 

Many terms derived from terminology coined in the early days of the industrial revolution in England survive to this day in England, India, Australia, and other former English colonies. Not so in the U.S. for some reason. Perhaps because we became independent before the industrial revolution.

 

Pete, I need your help here:

By "band linisher", do you mean a motorized belt driven abrasive collar as I know has been done on crankshafts while still in the engine? Does linishing refer to a particular type of abrasive?

[Skeeve]

By "band linisher", do you mean a motorized belt driven abrasive collar as I know has been done on crankshafts while still in the engine? Does linishing refer to a particular type of abrasive?

 

Funny, from Pete's first reference to linishing here on V11LM, I just immediately understood it to be a combo of "lapping & polishing." Of course, if I'd never had any machine shop classes at the local junior college, I wouldn't have the foggiest what lapping or polishing really were or what they entailed...

[pete roper]

Well, a belt linisher is a bit hard to describe .

 

Essentially it is like a much narrower and longer version of a belt sander but one of the long sides, (The arm is usually articulated and about a metre or more long.) is only held under gentle tension. Rather than using abrasive paper it uses a belt of what I can only describe as 'Scotchbrite' type material.

 

If the crank has been ground you can leave it in the grinder and spin it and then go at the journals with a sort of 'Sawing' motion as the grinder spins it. Alternatively you can fling a small crank like a Guzzi up between centres in a lather and have a go at it there.

 

The 'Scotchbrite' material is not aggresive enough to do any major damage to a jopurnal but it will polish it up to a nice mirror finish and remove any nasty munt that might be left over from grinding or from melted shells if you're simply getting a nitrided crank back to a useable condition.

 

Pete

[Guest ratchethack]

FWIW, here's a Tech write-up with a nice illustration by Larry Carley, ASE Certified Tech Writer and Publisher:

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/cpolish.htm

 

See Larry's bio here:

 

http://www.aa1car.com/larrypage/larrycarley_photos.htm

[Ryland3210]

As far as Jeep reliability goes, "decades ago" is the relevant phrase in the Alaska to Chile story.

 

Just sold my '2000 Cherokee. Put the first set of brake pads and rotors on the front wheels at 134,000 miles. Cost about $250. Replaced one rear door strut that snapped its end off because I tried driving it across a bumpy field with it open-my fault. Cost $40.

 

Other problems-zero. I never had to take it back to the dealer for any warrantee work, and when I sold it because of boredom, even the exhaust system, made of heavy gauge construction looked it was going to last another 100,000 miles or more. The original battery was getting a little tired, but still started it every time, even in the winter cold.

 

On bearings and seals, it's certainly no problem out here, even for my '70 Norton, and anything else I need them for. Recently bought a distributor for my '74 Jeep. It cost $80 from NAPA, and they actually refunded $30 for the old one.

 

Let's face it, new cars have become so reliable, that the need to at least break even on service has resulted in the shift to offering only complete assemblies which cost much more than the broken part. It's a cause and effect relationship, not just motivated by insurance and litigation considerations. There are different strategies among makers, however. My VW has an access door to access the top of the fuel tank in case the fuel pump needs service. My previous Camaro and Chevy Astrovan each cost just under $1,000 to replace the fuel pump because the rear differential and fuel tank had to be removed for want of an access door, all because of a frozen shaft bushing. <_ if you own a vehicle like this my advice is never let your tank go below>

[Ryland3210]

The best truck I ever had was a '69 Jeep J2000 4X4 pickup with a Buick 350 V8: over 200K on original motor, trans, diffs. Everything was manual, no add ons at all, but easy and fun to work on. Had a Rochester 2BBL carb, points distributor. With 3.92 diff gears and a Granny 4-speed it ran strong.

 

I've got a Y2K Grand Cherokee Laredo w/ 4.7L V8 w/ 113K and like it. I get 23 MPG on 55 MPH two-lane roads in the mountains, over 19 on faster roads. I've replaced an airbag control module ($250) and rear diff front seal for repairs. The SOHC motor runs great. The QuadraDrive system is good: basically a F/R posi, but only 2WD on pavement. It adjusts the drive L/R and F/R. You can also shift into 4L full time 4WD also w/ posi effect.

 

My friend and our ladies packed into a Jeep station wagon that was made sometime in the 50's and took it across the country to Vancouver, up to Jasper and back across Canada to New Jersey. It had a lot of miles on it when I got my hands on it. It had been set up with a 2 barrel 283 Chevy V8 and used for plowing for many winters. The differential was somewhere around 4.11:1, with a three speed on the column. We had two breakdowns. I bent a pushrod in the old 283 while racing it in Oregon. Easy fix with a $2.50 pushrod and back on the road in a couple hours.

 

The other problem was a blown U-Joint on moutiainous dirt roads near Kamloops. No surprise, considering the years of snow plow duty. No worries: took off the drive shaft and drove back into town in four wheel drive on the front differential. Also found the replacement U-Joint in stock at the one auto parts store in town. Got drunk with the rest of the population that night to celebrate.

 

No other problems. The trip was a blast.