Which Lambda should I use with a MY15m

[pasotibbs]

What Lambda options have been tried ?

 

As I've just got a pair of M4's and a Mistral X-over (thanks Greg )I need to look at going closed loop on the MY15M thats been sat on a shelf in my garage for a year waiting for me to get the time to set it up

[raz]

What Lambda options have been tried ?

 

As I've just got a pair of M4's and a Mistral X-over (thanks Greg )I need to look at going closed loop on the MY15M thats been sat on a shelf in my garage for a year waiting for me to get the time to set it up

The best option I know of is LC-1 from Innovate Motorsports (European site). It's not the cheapest but it's really neat and has good specs (linear reading from Lambda 0.6 and up to free air, or so they say). It's a kit including a Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor and the electronics to drive it in a case well suitable for mounting on the bike. A bung for welding into the exhaust is included too. Fully programmable outputs. Several people here (including me) are using it with My15M and My16M. See also Jens' pages on guzzitech.dk

 

I've programmed it to output 0 volts at AFR 10 and 5 volts at AFR 15. This has the cool advantage that the voltage reading on the Optimizer is the actual AFR except the first '1' is missing. So 4.62 means AFR 14.62 I came up with this after failing to get Cliff to include the calculations into the Optimizer and display an AFR figure instead of the voltage. Cliff is really good but not that responsive on wild ideas. I don't think he even likes AFR figures and he's probably right. Find a voltage that works and stick to it.

[pasotibbs]

The best option I know of is LC-1 from Innovate Motorsports (European site). It's not the cheapest but it's really neat and has good specs (linear reading from Lambda 0.6 and up to free air, or so they say). It's a kit including a Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor and the electronics to drive it in a case well suitable for mounting on the bike. A bung for welding into the exhaust is included too. Fully programmable outputs. Several people here (including me) are using it with My15M and My16M. See also Jens' pages on guzzitech.dk

 

I've programmed it to output 0 volts at AFR 10 and 5 volts at AFR 15. This has the cool advantage that the voltage reading on the Optimizer is the actual AFR except the first '1' is missing. So 4.62 means AFR 14.62 I came up with this after failing to get Cliff to include the calculations into the Optimizer and display an AFR figure instead of the voltage. Cliff is really good but not that responsive on wild ideas. I don't think he even likes AFR figures and he's probably right. Find a voltage that works and stick to it.

Thanks I'll check it out

[Cliff]

I'm also using the LC1 ( 2 of them actually ). I run them in their factory default mode and find that 2.0 to 2.25V runs well but 2.5V I get the occassional miss. I think 2.0V is about 13:1

[pasotibbs]

Thanks I'll check it out

My LC-1 arrived today, I bought it from a UK seller on Ebay (£136 inc postage) because the price on Innovates web site ( http://www.lm-1.com/index1.html ) has gone up £30 in the last few days (£162 with postage !!) knew I should have bought it earlier

I'll have a look at installing it on the bike this weekend, if I get chance.

[raz]

My LC-1 arrived today, I bought it from a UK seller on Ebay (£136 inc postage) because the price on Innovates web site ( http://www.lm-1.com/index1.html ) has gone up £30 in the last few days (£162 with postage !!) knew I should have bought it earlier

I'll have a look at installing it on the bike this weekend, if I get chance.

Ouch, I'm glad I got one before that!

 

Be sure to avoid grounding offsets. See Jens' pages for some ideas on mounting. I stuffed the LED and buttons into the My16M box, but your My15M may be tighter. Also, I regret being unable to use LC-1 with my OEM ECU for comparisons. I'll make a separate little box like Jens did, instead. I used the original headlight relay for driving the heater (my actual headlight power is separately relayed) except for calibration, where I use the ECU relay instead.

 

Also, for any "lower voltage is richer" setup (like the default) don't forget putting a negative sign on all voltages in ECU config. I forgot that (even though I knew) so I had to nurse the bike home at almost idle (open loop) to fix it.

 

Speaking of MyECU, I just carefully verified the Optimiser TPS figures versus actual TPS mV, so in the future I'll be able to recalibrate it without hooking up a multimeter and splicing into wires. Then again this setting is not very important until you want to hook up an OEM for some reason.

• Baseline TPS (no fast idle, no linkage, no idle screw): 150-165 mV equals a reading of 30-33
  
• Idle TPS (linkage connected, 2.1 degrees throttle set with idle screw): 378 mV reads 77
  

For a V11 the second value would be more like 3.2-3.6 degrees (490-532 mV) which comes out as a reading of 100-109.

 

The figures exactly matches what they should in theory which don't surprise me at all, but the resolution is a fifth of a multimeter with three decimals.

[pasotibbs]

Ouch, I'm glad I got one before that!

 

Be sure to avoid grounding offsets. See Jens' pages for some ideas on mounting. I stuffed the LED and buttons into the My16M box, but your My15M may be tighter. Also, I regret being unable to use LC-1 with my OEM ECU for comparisons. Maybe I'll make a separate little box like Jens did, instead. I used the original headlight relay for driving the heater (my actual headlight power is separately relayed) except for calibration, where I use the ECU relay instead.

 

Also, for any "lower voltage is richer" setup (like the default) don't forget putting a negative sign on all voltages in ECU config. I forgot that (even though I knew) so I had to nurse the bike home at almost idle (open loop) to fix it.

 

Speaking of MyECU, I just carefully verified the Optimiser TPS figures versus actual TPS mV, so in the future I'll be able to recalibrate it without hooking up a multimeter and splicing into wires. Then again this setting is not very important until you want to hook up an OEM for some reason.

• Baseline TPS (no fast idle, no linkage, no idle screw): 150-165 mV equals a reading of 30-33
  
• Idle TPS (linkage connected, 2.1 degrees throttle set with idle screw): 378 mV reads 77
  

For a V11 the second value would be more like 3.5 degrees (521 mV) which comes out as a reading of 107.

The figures exactly matches what they should in theory which don't surprise me at all, but the resolution is a fifth of a multimeter with three decimals.

 

Thanks for that, useful to know.

As you said I don't think there is enough room in the 15m case for the switch and LED so some kind of bracket will have to be made, the wiring should be easy enough except that I've no idea how to connect it to the MY15m, maybe I've missed it but it doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere in Cliffs Manual .

I'll deal with that later, making the bracket ,finding a secure location for the LC-1 controller and fitting the exhausts (I've already made new polished alloy hangers for the M4's) will keep me busy for a while

[Cliff]

You'll see a 3 pin header near the top left of the board. The centre pin is ground. The pin below that is the signal input.

[luhbo]

To get the signal into the housing I use the now useless 3-pin flash or diagnostics connector. Now when you're in connect the responding pins with the three pins (or as much as you need of them) that Cliff has mentioned.

 

Hubert

[raz]

To get the signal into the housing I use the now useless 3-pin flash or diagnostics connector. Now when you're in connect the responding pins with the three pins (or as much as you need of them) that Cliff has mentioned.

 

Hubert

That was too clever and simple for me. I drilled a hole in the box for the cables, which now has to be carefully sealed against moisture. Why didn't I think of that! I think Cliff should even wire the PCB's for it for any future generations.

 

Maybe we should create a "MyECU thread" in the How-to section where we could share stuff like this, instead of having it scattered in a lot of various threads!