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Posted

Just been for a 1hr spin, comming down from the hills and the engine started to do little backfires even between 1st and 2ng gear... only did that once tho kinda came right but still with the odd backfire.

 

BUT... when I got home the idle had raised somewhat and comming from the left hand throtel body was a loud ticking, clacky sound the sound went away for a couple of seconds and the revs droped back to were they should be... then the noise came back and the idle went up.

 

what the hells going on in there people?

Posted

Rubber throttle body manifold popped loose?

Posted
Rubber throttle body manifold popped loose?

no all good as are the valve clearances etc, just been for another ride and all seemed ok till I got home, the longer it idled for the noiser the clatter in the left throtle body got and the idle went up 2-300rpm???

Posted

I once had cracks in these rubber manifolds, did not want to believe it, then had to once I could already hear the air popping through the cracks. The symptoms were the same, some times normal idling, then a sudden backfire with the engine nearly dying, then sometimes the idle higher than normal and so on. It sounded a bit like the tweet you get when your exhaust manifold has came loose.

 

Hubert

Posted

The same thing has happened to me many times and it was always a sign that my right rubber intake boot was loose.

 

I would say definately something with the air intake.

Posted

The leaks make a clicking sound. They pop when they get worse.

 

Many will spray a contact cleaner or solvent, even WD40, onto the boots and listen for a change.

 

A few wraps of electrical (gaffer) tape will also seal the cracks for thousands of miles.

 

I suppose if the aluminum manifold was loose at the head you could get the same thing. Also check to vacuum ports where the fuel evaporation cannisters are attached. Many of these may have been modified by plugging with a threaded fastener or a rubber nipples. The nipples can fail and cause a vacuum leak.

Posted
The leaks make a clicking sound. They pop when they get worse.

 

Many will spray a contact cleaner or solvent, even WD40, onto the boots and listen for a change.

 

A few wraps of electrical (gaffer) tape will also seal the cracks for thousands of miles.

 

I suppose if the aluminum manifold was loose at the head you could get the same thing. Also check to vacuum ports where the fuel evaporation cannisters are attached. Many of these may have been modified by plugging with a threaded fastener or a rubber nipples. The nipples can fail and cause a vacuum leak.

 

My son's Suzuki developed a small crack or two. We cleaned the boot well, coated it in the plastic crap you dip tool handles in, and it sealed up nicely. I don't know how long it would last- he sold the bike a few months later- but it was cheap and effective, and really didn't look too cobbled together.

Posted

well used ether (engine start) and sprayed it all round the inj unit and manifolds... nothing, left it idling for 10min no problems so Ill just see how it goes on a big haul this w/e, off to a awesom bike rally, thanks for the help guys.

Posted
well used ether (engine start) and sprayed it all round the inj unit and manifolds... nothing,....

 

Exactly that's the reason why most people tend not to believe that the cracks they see do go through already :grin:

 

Hubert

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