Rocker Box gaskets

[Guest Brian Robson]

I have tried the methods described on this site and also on guzzi tech and still have a slight weep on the gaskets especially after a long ride. I thought I would try these gaskets from Real Gaskets in Tennesee.

These are a silicone gasket, guaranteed not to leak for the lifetime of the bike.....I know, I know we've all heard these lines before, but for the price of $22.00 for the pair and delivered to my door in 3 days, its worth a try.

Anyone else used these before I put them on?

Also anyone used the new sport touring Avons on an 02 Le Mans?

Thanks.

[dlaing]

You sold me, I just placed an order.

I hate cellulose gaskets, even if they are a pretty aquamarine color!

Now maybe I won't have to torque the bolts down so darn tight.

[Guest guz]

Brian, I've serviced and rebuilt over a dozen different bikes and car engines using clear Silicone II sealer avbl at your hardware for a couple bucks a tube. I use it almost everywhere there's a gasket - no, not on head or exhaust gaskets! The stuff is ABSOLUTELY 100% weep-proof and withstands engine heat without any evidence of breaking down - ever. The key is to use lacquer thinner to get all the oil off for surgically clean surfaces that the silicone can adhere to. Some people think this is some kind of sacrelege. The old canard is that theoretically, the "squeege" that comes out around the gasket on the inside when you tighten things down could break off and get carried into oil passages causing engine failure . This is bunk. I've seen no evidence of this in about 30 years of using it this way. I've never found it in my sump screens, nor have I ever heard of this happening to anyone. The only time the "squeege" breaks off is when you take things apart again. Then things come apart very easily and you just peel the stuff right off. Most of it comes off cleanly in long strings. Beats the hell out of scraping off hard gasket prep compounds and shredding gaskets - IMHO, THIS is true misery . You can re-use most gaskets indefinitely this way unless you break them, which is highly unlikely since it comes apart so easily. Don't overtighten. Button 'er up just "snug" and use threadlocker on clean, oil-free threads (also cleaned with lacquer thinner). I've even used it in some applications without gaskets at all with equally superior results. I know of some auto mfgr's that have used it on oil pans with no gasket - also with a perfect no-weep, no seep seal .

 

My engines are always spotless, even after long runs .

 

Guz in San Diego

[Guest ChrisBarrett]

I use silicon gaskets for the rocker box covers on my Norton. They work well. You do have to make sure everything is clean (oil free) and dry. If there is oil on them at install they will leak. If dry, they work great.

 

my 2 cents

[callison]

Jeez. I'm still using stock gaskets. Across three big blocks with over 100,000 miles total, valve cover gaskets have been the least of my problems. I've never seen any real weeping or leaks. The pan gasket however, is a real disappointment. After 4 years and about 30,000 miles, it get's hard enough you can't reuse it. To be perfectly honest, if you're worried about gaskets, the ones to pay attention to are the head gaskets.

[Guest IanJ]

I used gaskets from RealGaskets on my BMW R100, they seemed to do the job pretty well. Although it's not a concern with the rocker cover gaskets, those silicone gaskets expand in the presence of gasoline, which is great for keeping your float bowls from leaking, but sucks rotten eggs when you're trying to get the float bowls back on without pinching the gasket -- I had to wait 5-6 hours for those damned things to shrink back down after a while. But like I said, that's not a concern on the rocker cover. On the BMW rocker covers they did great, and they don't get all ripped up like fiber gaskets. (And, there's no waiting for them to arrive from Italy! ) Do make sure the sealing surfaces are clean and dry before you fit the gaskets, though.

[Guest Brian Robson]

Carl suggested that other gaskets may be of more importance, and on that point, the owner of Real Gaskets has said that he will make any gasket for a Moto Guzzi as long as he can have the part for 2-3 weeks. I don't how many of us have a spare oil pan or cylinder head, but if I was a dealer I would be getting in touch.

[al_roethlisberger]

Well, since I have a "mystery leak" that is just misting oil on the side plates, I went ahead and ordered a set of these since they were so inexpensive.

 

We'll see how they work out I guess

 

al

[twhitaker]

My mystry leak came from where the oil line connected to the head. Check also the breather line to the head. Those crush washers can be a source of frustration.

[Guest Jeff Kelland]

I just use stock gaskets and put them on dry, they didn't leak from new and they haven't leaked since I've adjusted the valves 2000 miles ago. As for silicone, I have seen numerous engines taken apart with silicone worms (the squeegee stuff) choking the pickup screen, I have seen partial engine failures as the result of this left over residue. I believe it is due to excessive amounts of silicone applied to the parts. I prefer loctite gasket eliminator instead, looks like grape jelly and it works great, cleans up easy too.

[jrt]

I just saw this stuff recently in the auto parts store-

http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.a...m&item_no=25249

 

Some weird blue stuff. It really is non-hardening- I used it on my Eldorado oil pan gasket for that reason. Doesn't seem to leak, but I'm not sure I would recommend it for valve covers because some does 'squish' out and it's BLUE.

 

A better solution is that MGCycle sells a 'thicker' valve cover gasket. I have the corresponding ones on my Eldo and they are great.

 

Cheers,

Jason

[Guest guz]

Jeff, thanks for your observation re: silicone worms in sump screens & partial engine failure. On my earlier rant about how much I like silicone II as a gasket treatment, I forgot to add key #2 - it must go on VERY THIN! I have no doubt that there are some out there who would lay it on pencil-thick on both sides of a gasket like they're caulking a bathtub . I've seen more amazingly dumb things than this myself. Of course you'd expect what you've observed. I just make sure both sides of a freshly cleaned (& dry) gasket get enough by working it between my fingers to make it shiny (no lumps). I swear by it. Just did my valve covers and sump on my V11S a few weeks back (using the factory original 10K mi. gaskets) and put about 300 miles on it since - no evidence of any seep whatsoever . No sump worms - EVER.

 

Rgds.,

 

Guz in San Diego

[Guest Jeff Kelland]

Guz, when I do use silicone, I apply it exactly as you described it, just a very thin coat applied on both sides with my fingers. It works for me also.

[al_roethlisberger]

Just wanted to update that I installed the new "Real Gaskets" gaskets the other week, and they seem to work like a charm. No leaks, and the fit was perfect.

 

The instructions called for no sealant, and clean dry(no oil) surfaces. I followed the instructions, put them on "dry" and so far no leaks

 

Someone really should send him an oil-pan gasket so he can make those available as well....

 

al

[dlaing]

Update!

I have been running the Real Gaskets since September without a leak.

FWIW my OE gaskets leaked unless I really cranked down the allen heads.

Just tight enough that they do not loosen is all that is required with the real gaskets.