Tom M Posted February 18, 2008 Posted February 18, 2008 Sort of OT but if anyone is looking for cheap carb sticks this looks like a deal: motion pro At $10.95 this is probably less money that I could build a home made set for, but it does use mercury. FWIW I built a manometer for under $5.00. 2 bucks for tubing and 2 bucks for a yard stick. A little scrap lumber, a few zip ties, some ATF I had laying around...done. It worked great until one of the tubes swung loose and hit the hot header. I shut the bike down as soon as I saw all the fluid heading for one cylinder. I trimmed the tubes to even lengths again and finished my adjustments. I can't comment on how well it runs yet as it's pouring out, but I'll probably be back looking for help if it's not OK. Thanks to all of you guys who posted info on how to do the valve adjustment, tps setting and t-body sync.
raz Posted February 18, 2008 Posted February 18, 2008 I thought that was a picture of hakarl (buried shark) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C3%A1karl The lutefisk jokes at wikipedia are amusing... "When Lutefisk is Outlawed, Only Outlaws Will Have Lutefisk! " http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lutefisk I must confess I never tried lutefisk, but I seriously doubt it will be worse than surströmming. Of course, I never tried that either. Several airlines have actually banned the cans on flights. Thank God for refridgerators.
Guest BIGGERJIM Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 tom m i built the same thing copied from bmw sight works pretty good don't it.
Guest ratchethack Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 I've found the chief drawback of the water manometer is that it's too sensitive. It jumps around too much. FWIW, by replacing the "U" part (where the water is) with the next larger size vinyl tubing, the larger part carries a significantly greater volume of water, and the sensitivity is reduced by about half. The smaller dia. tubing from manifold barbs to the "U" part is shoved inside the larger tubing for a good seal. IMHO, balancing TBs on a twin doesn't get any better 'n this.
Tom M Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 I've found the chief drawback of the water manometer is that it's too sensitive. It jumps around too much. FWIW, by replacing the "U" part (where the water is) with the next larger size vinyl tubing, the larger part carries a significantly greater volume of water, and the sensitivity is reduced by about half. The smaller dia. tubing from manifold barbs to the "U" part is shoved inside the larger tubing for a good seal. IMHO, balancing TBs on a twin doesn't get any better 'n this. You might want to try ATF instead of water RH. I thought it was very easy to read and it didn't move too quickly. If it did move quicker I probably would have sucked some into a cylinder when one of my hoses melted through after hitting the hot header
Tom M Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 tom m i built the same thing copied from bmw sight works pretty good don't it. No complaints here Jim. I just googled "motorcycle manometer" and saw a few different designs that were all pretty similar. Now I can put the money I might have spent on a Morgan Carbtune towards some handlebar risers. I want to give some higher bars a try this Spring
Guest ratchethack Posted February 19, 2008 Posted February 19, 2008 You might want to try ATF instead of water RH. I thought it was very easy to read and it didn't move too quickly. If it did move quicker I probably would have sucked some into a cylinder when one of my hoses melted through after hitting the hot header Yeah, that's an option. I find water's less messy, I've got it (or something resembling it -- it ain't any too good here ) on tap, it doesn't hurt anything if it gets sucked into the intake, and it dries when you spill it. I seem to spill it whenever I balance. Two different diameter tubes costs about the same, (~$4 total). But that's just me.
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