Gasket Replacement

[Bruno]

I came back home from work today and got off the bike. I noticed there was a little oil on the back tire, so I looked around and noticed that there was a significant amount of oil on the left hand side of the engine and that it was still leaking. After wiping off the excess, I re-started the engine and found that the oil was streaming out of the joint between the flywheel cover and the case at the location shown in the picture. In fact, it was spraying onto the ground.

 

Does anyone have any idea as to how long it would take to replace the gasket and how much trouble? I see this gasket as costing nothing, but the price might be high considering the location.

 

Any ideas?

 

[Guest ratchethack]

Bruno, the good news for you is that the oil ain't comin' from somewhere around the flywheel!

 

The red arrow in the photo indicates the gasket at the timing chaincase. Gaskets at this location have been known to take an occasional hike South, with the exact symptoms you've described. I've replaced that gasket myself on my way back out after replacing the tensioner. It's a mite tedious, but pretty straightforward if you're generally handy with such things.

 

The alternator stator and rotor have to come out. Be sure to place the rotor inside the stator fairly quickly after the stator comes off to protect the magnetic field, which will be damaged if they are left separate for a period of time. Alternator nut torque = 60 lbs/ft.

 

Now there are those who will put up a fearsome argument in favor of applying new gaskets dry, oiled, or greased here, but I'll take 'em all on with my most successful general practice (many decades in all similar situations) of a VERY LIGHT, "just enough to make it shiny" coating of silicone gasket sealant applied to the gasket betwixt the fingers. Joint surfaces must be absolutely clean of oil via scrub with solvent. Applied quickly, before the sealant starts to set up, and allowed to cure properly before filling with oil again and running the motor, this will ensure a weep-free, seep-free joint, and (not that you'd ever need a repeat performance in this case) the gasket may be re-used many many times by renewing with a careful wipe-down with solvent before re-applying new sealant.

 

Need more detail, any Q's, post 'em here. We'll take care of you, my friend.

 

Hope this helps.

[emry]

Do a search for "timing gasket" it should turn up something. I have blown this gasket on the other side of the chest 3 times before doing away with the gasket and using some hylomar instead, has not leaked since. Be Sure and get a front crankseal to install while you are at it, they are not very good about being reused, luckily they are cheap though.

[Bruno]

So to recap - I should be OK in keeping the timing cover gasket w/ silicone gasket sealant or using hylomar, but should be sure to change the front crankseal.

 

Is there anyting else I should be aware of that should or could be changed while in this area?

[Guest ratchethack]

Nothin' else I can think of. Emry's suggestion to have a new crank seal on hand is a good one, IMHO -- just in case. I likewise had one on hand, along with a new timing chaincase gasket, before I went in to replace the tensioner. But upon examining the original crank seal carefully with a jeweler's loupe, I could see no significant wear on it at about 30K miles, so I left it in, assigning the new one to "spares stock" in my workshop cabinet.

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

 

EDIT: I just remembered something. The output wires from the alternator are held in place with a tiny zip tie. You'll need to cut this to get the alternator out. Take care to note exactly where this zip tie is for replacement, as it's not clear where it came from once you've removed it. This little zip tie is important, because it serves to keep the output wires from being chewed up by the rotor. Best not have those wires floating around in the wrong place.

[Dan M]

As Ratchet said, it is not a terrible job, time consuming but straight forward. Your post did jog my memory though. Maybe two years ago I noticed a rather heavy oil leak there on my bike one evening. I had intentions of riding the bike the next morning so I decided to try a "temporary fix". I cleaned the area up and found that part of the timing cover gasket was split and pushing out. I pulled the loose piece out, cleaned all oil residue from the joint and injected silicone at the seam. Wiped the excess and haven't thought about it since. Two years later and still "dry as a bone" as they say.

[pete roper]

The newer timing chest gaskets are metal with a layer of some sort of snot applied, probably worth getting one of these since i reckon they will be less prone flexure and disintegration. Also inside the collar that the front seal runs on there is an o-ring that is there to prevent the oil migrating up the shaft inside the collar, worth replacing that too.

 

Pete

[Bruno]

Great, thanks very much - I'll have to plan this out and do the fix soon as I'm riding the wife's scooter.

 

Interesting about zip ties on this bike, every so often, the engine won't start. Turns out the factory over tightened the tie securing the clutch release sensor wire to the handle bar. Looks like it may have contributed to a partial cut in the wire since is was so tight... might have fatigue it a little while turning the handle bars or something. I have to wiggle it a little to make the contact.

[Guest ratchethack]

AHA! Less I miss yet another opportunity to wager yet another barnyard full o' Pete's favorite bunyips, it's not the tightness of the zip-tie a-tall. Many on this Forum, including my riding Pal with '04 LM, and Yours Truly, have all experienced the semi-common "intermittent bullet connector phenomenon" that you describe. The actual source of the problem is the pair of bullet connectors from the clutch switch, located under the front left-hand side of the tank, zip-tied up against the spine. Incredibly enough, before discovering the actual source of the problem, many (myself included) have repeatedly been able to "solve" a non-start condition by turning the bars lock-to-lock (somewhat fits wot you describe), which seems to provide just enough movement within the connectors to allow a start.

 

I fixed mine permanently the same way my Pal and most here have done it, by cycling the connectors several times to brighten-up the contact points, filling with dielectric grease, and LIGHTLY crimping them in plugged-in mode. Nary a problem ever since.

 

Typical resident of Bungendore, N.S.W.

[emry]

Much like Ratch I did examine the the front seal, and all seemed well, but then a few days later after reassembly a slight oil leak was present. Ordered, pulled and replaced the front crankseal and all was well. Save your self the few extra days of fustration and have a seal on hand. Me thinks the abiltity to accutately relocate the front cover in the precise location as its disaasemly is a hit-an-miss affiar. Pete or RacerX? any luck not replacing the front seals?

[Bruno]

AHA! Lest I miss yet another opportunity to wager yet another barnyard full o' Pete's favorite bunyips, it's not the tightness of the zip-tie a-tall. Many on this Forum, including my riding Pal with '04 LM, and Yours Truly, have all experienced the semi-common "intermittent bullet connector phenomenon" that you describe. The actual source of the problem is the pair of bullet connectors from the clutch switch, located under the front left-hand side of the tank, zip-tied up against the spine. Incredibly enough, before discovering the actual source of the problem, many (myself included) have repeatedly been able to "solve" a non-start condition by turning the bars lock-to-lock (somewhat fits wot you describe), which seems to provide just enough movement within the connectors to allow a start.

 

I fixed mine permanently the same way my Pal and most here have done it, by cycling the connectors several times to brighten-up the contact points, filling with dielectric grease, and LIGHTLY crimping them in plugged-in mode. Nary a problem ever since.

 

Typical resident of Bungendore, N.S.W.

 

Too funny - that's exactly what's happened. I'll have to look at this. And yes, I've had to turn the bars many times to start the engine. Sometimes I would straighten them only to have to turn them back to the left (primarily) so that it would start thereby likely providing enough movement in the connectors. Other times, wiggling the wire at the tie would be the only way, again likely to provide the required movement.

 

Note that I will get the front seal as well. As much as I like working on the bike... time is short.