Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 1999 V11 (30,000 miles) has always been dealer serviced without any problems - other than the BIG expense.. :o

 

I can easily service my other bikes and would like to tackle the Guzzi. Reading most posts on here, it would appear that the fuel injection system is really beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Its not rocket science - or is it?

Posted

It is not rocket science, but it is not as ABC either.For some things you need a computer and a CO analyzer, but most of the time you can ignore the CO and keep the bypass screws set close to what MPH recommends.

A power commander and dynometer with O2 sensor would be nice to have, but most of us can barely afford a trip to the dynometer. Still the power commander can get you much closer to perfection.

Balancing is pretty easy, just be sure to balance at 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle. Each check only takes seconds,(if you have a decent meter, (dial gauges are lousy)) but do not overheat the engine if you are struggling with the adjuster.

Posted

No,

it is very easy to service compared to most bike.

 

FI might be scary but it is easier to work with than carbs,

if you like to play with the FI buy a PowerCommander for

easy access to the injection map.

Posted

The majority of the fuel injection adjustments can be carried out with a couple of vacum gauges and a mutimeter with the right knoledge. Unless you are dertermined to mess with the mixture throughout the rev range (I get the impression no because you havn't looked at already) I wouldn't bother with a power commander actually I wouldn't bother with a power cammander period but thats my own personel opion.

Posted

Thank you for the feedback. If it ain't broke don't fix it....I think I'll keep it dealer serviced for the time being. At least he knows what he's doing :)

Posted

Slight delay, sorry Mike. Cobb & Jagger, Bradford, England.

 

Since I posted here my super reliable V11 has developed a fault!!! :angry:

I've just been reading rotorhead's post about stalling. Seems I now have a heat(soak) related problem.

 

Bike starts and runs fine from cold. My problem occurs when re-starting from hot - the engine runs very badly or won't fire up at all. Leave it to cool down for approx. 1 hour and everything is fine again. Its not mileage related - just when the engine is hot. Ideas?

Posted

Sounds like vapor lock. Check the heat sheilding under the tank to see that it's not falling down (mine was). The real solution is to re-position your fuel pump and fuel lines so they don't heat up as much. A lot of people have had this problem, so it seems.

Check for vacuum at the tank also. When it stalls, open the gas tank. If it sucks air, then remove the o-ring under the tank. Look for a thread on 'tank suck' for a full explanation.

 

cheers,

Jason

Posted
I wouldn't bother with a power cammander period but thats my own personel opion.

Murray, have you actually ridden a bike with a PCIII?

http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Endorse15M.html

 

I can probably find you someone local to where you live for you to demo one, if not. And you should before developing such a strong opinion.

 

If anyone is interested in one, I'd appreciate the business as I've spent more time developing/tweaking maps for Guzzisti for free then anyone else that I am aware of; http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-15M.html

 

Todd@GuzziTech.com

GuzziTech.com PCIIIs

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Solved it! :luigi:

The problem turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor/Potentiometer located on top of the right hand injector unit. It wouldn't show an error code on the ECU until it had heat soaked for at least 10 minutes after a run. The contacts within the TPS worked normally when cool but opened up enough when warm to disrupt the signal to the ECU. Only 124 English Pounds to fix.... :(

Posted
Only 124 English Pounds to fix

That's $207 USD. Not too bad compared to the price we pay in the USA, which is $264 for the same part. Still a major rip-off though, considering the nearly identical HD part is $50 in th U.S.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...