V11UK Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 My 1999 V11 (30,000 miles) has always been dealer serviced without any problems - other than the BIG expense.. I can easily service my other bikes and would like to tackle the Guzzi. Reading most posts on here, it would appear that the fuel injection system is really beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Its not rocket science - or is it?
dlaing Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 It is not rocket science, but it is not as ABC either.For some things you need a computer and a CO analyzer, but most of the time you can ignore the CO and keep the bypass screws set close to what MPH recommends. A power commander and dynometer with O2 sensor would be nice to have, but most of us can barely afford a trip to the dynometer. Still the power commander can get you much closer to perfection. Balancing is pretty easy, just be sure to balance at 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle then 2500 to 3000 RPM then idle. Each check only takes seconds,(if you have a decent meter, (dial gauges are lousy)) but do not overheat the engine if you are struggling with the adjuster.
gthyni Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 No, it is very easy to service compared to most bike. FI might be scary but it is easier to work with than carbs, if you like to play with the FI buy a PowerCommander for easy access to the injection map.
Murray Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 The majority of the fuel injection adjustments can be carried out with a couple of vacum gauges and a mutimeter with the right knoledge. Unless you are dertermined to mess with the mixture throughout the rev range (I get the impression no because you havn't looked at already) I wouldn't bother with a power commander actually I wouldn't bother with a power cammander period but thats my own personel opion.
V11UK Posted September 19, 2003 Author Posted September 19, 2003 Thank you for the feedback. If it ain't broke don't fix it....I think I'll keep it dealer serviced for the time being. At least he knows what he's doing
V11UK Posted September 26, 2003 Author Posted September 26, 2003 Slight delay, sorry Mike. Cobb & Jagger, Bradford, England. Since I posted here my super reliable V11 has developed a fault!!! I've just been reading rotorhead's post about stalling. Seems I now have a heat(soak) related problem. Bike starts and runs fine from cold. My problem occurs when re-starting from hot - the engine runs very badly or won't fire up at all. Leave it to cool down for approx. 1 hour and everything is fine again. Its not mileage related - just when the engine is hot. Ideas?
jrt Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 Sounds like vapor lock. Check the heat sheilding under the tank to see that it's not falling down (mine was). The real solution is to re-position your fuel pump and fuel lines so they don't heat up as much. A lot of people have had this problem, so it seems. Check for vacuum at the tank also. When it stalls, open the gas tank. If it sucks air, then remove the o-ring under the tank. Look for a thread on 'tank suck' for a full explanation. cheers, Jason
RacerX Posted September 26, 2003 Posted September 26, 2003 I wouldn't bother with a power cammander period but thats my own personel opion. Murray, have you actually ridden a bike with a PCIII? http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Endorse15M.html I can probably find you someone local to where you live for you to demo one, if not. And you should before developing such a strong opinion. If anyone is interested in one, I'd appreciate the business as I've spent more time developing/tweaking maps for Guzzisti for free then anyone else that I am aware of; http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-15M.html Todd@GuzziTech.com GuzziTech.com PCIIIs
V11UK Posted October 6, 2003 Author Posted October 6, 2003 Solved it! The problem turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor/Potentiometer located on top of the right hand injector unit. It wouldn't show an error code on the ECU until it had heat soaked for at least 10 minutes after a run. The contacts within the TPS worked normally when cool but opened up enough when warm to disrupt the signal to the ECU. Only 124 English Pounds to fix....
callison Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Only 124 English Pounds to fix That's $207 USD. Not too bad compared to the price we pay in the USA, which is $264 for the same part. Still a major rip-off though, considering the nearly identical HD part is $50 in th U.S.
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