how to, finally, grease the uni joints.

[savagehenry]

Chris; What is the brand of the grease coupler in the rest of the known world? Certainly North America must have a version. I too cannot get to the uni-joint to grease it.

mfeeney

I bought a needle nozzle that worked very well, and easy, using the method stated as the start of this thread, and was very inexpensive to boot. Lincoln Industries, Needle Nozzle, Model 5803. You can visit their website, I got it at my local Farm & Fleet for $8.00. I'm sure if you can't find this one or a similar one, you could always buy one on line from McMaster-Carr, an industrial supply company that has anything you could think of. Bought the sheet of ABS plastic that I made my rain shields from when I removed my rear tire hugger, and all the stainless steel I used to make a crankcase breather valve.

 

 

Yes, we've found some joints that's work if we grind on them. I'm still searching for ones we don't have to grind on. The ones Guzzi uses require shims.

Thanks for the confirmation, will do it the "right way" when I do a major servicing at the end of this season. Greg, it is really something to have folks of your caliber/reputation just popping in to help us jokers. A true testment to both this site, and the Guzzi community in general. Thanks to all (ESPECIALLY Jaap),S.H.

[mfeeney]

Where do you get the grease coupler if you are in USA?

[mfeeney]

THANKS!!!

 

 

I bought a needle nozzle that worked very well, and easy, using the method stated as the start of this thread, and was very inexpensive to boot. Lincoln Industries, Needle Nozzle, Model 5803. You can visit their website, I got it at my local Farm & Fleet for $8.00. I'm sure if you can't find this one or a similar one, you could always buy one on line from McMaster-Carr, an industrial supply company that has anything you could think of. Bought the sheet of ABS plastic that I made my rain shields from when I removed my rear tire hugger, and all the stainless steel I used to make a crankcase breather valve.

 

 

 

Thanks for the confirmation, will do it the "right way" when I do a major servicing at the end of this season. Greg, it is really something to have folks of your caliber/reputation just popping in to help us jokers. A true testment to both this site, and the Guzzi community in general. Thanks to all (ESPECIALLY Jaap),S.H.

[morini]

Sorry guys I haven't read the forum for a few weeks.

 

You can buy Macnaught ( I misspelt the name the first time) grease equipment in both the US and the UK.

www.macnaught.com.au or www.macnaughtusa.com

Open 'Accessories' then 'Greasing Couplers' scroll down and you will find a range of needle point fittings. I purchased the 12" one because it makes it easier to reach in while i'm holding up the shaft.

 

Good luck

Chris Morini

[Guest Cooch]

Went after the front U joint tonight. The good news is I see/found "good" grease at ALL points, (SIDENOTE: apparently, FBF uses "Moly-lube" for the whole shaft). Bad news, am I wrong or does the front section of the drive shaft NOT fit through the tunnel in the swing arm when attempting to pull it backwards. Then I removed the cage too, and FU K, still no good either! I figured it would end up being easier to pull the whole shaft, but not on mine, so far..... and if this is so, then you must pull the swing arm to remove the entire driveshaft?!?!? Appreciate your time and thoughts, S.H.

 

Hi, reading some of the earlier postings I thought "thats not right"

 

My 03 Scura is currently in pieces after gearbox decided to dine on one of the layshaft bearings. When I was stripping it down I remember having to separate the drive shaft to pull it out of the swingarm. I have just been out and checked and the front universal joint will not fit through the hole in the swingarm.

[jtucker]

Sorry guys I haven't read the forum for a few weeks.

 

You can buy Macnaught ( I misspelt the name the first time) grease equipment in both the US and the UK.

www.macnaught.com.au or www.macnaughtusa.com

Open 'Accessories' then 'Greasing Couplers' scroll down and you will find a range of needle point fittings. I purchased the 12" one because it makes it easier to reach in while i'm holding up the shaft.

 

Good luck

Chris Morini

 

I looked at their site (http://www.macnaughtusa.com/mn_acc_couopler.html) and see they also have a 12" needle with a 45-degree bend at the tip (KZLN). Wouldn't the 45-degree bend allow you to get to the problem fitting *without* having to take off the rear end?

 

__Jason

[Richard]

I looked at their site (http://www.macnaughtusa.com/mn_acc_couopler.html) and see they also have a 12" needle with a 45-degree bend at the tip (KZLN). Wouldn't the 45-degree bend allow you to get to the problem fitting *without* having to take off the rear end?

 

__Jason

That sounds dangerously like logical thought....!

[jtucker]

That sounds dangerously like logical thought....!

 

Would that be an anti-bodge?

 

Seriously, I'm not sure if this would work or not. My bike was on the bench for so long, it's been a *really* long time since I've attempted to lube the shaft. My memory is fuzzy, but from what I recall, a long needle w/ an angled tip would have made short work of it.

 

__Jason

[savagehenry]

I just got done doing it about two weeks ago. It works. You don't take off the swing arm. My needle is about 2 1/2", mounted to a solid 8" extension, parts list is in a post just above, cost was about $15.00 +/- , this is a "no brainer" in my book. Do a more thorough job of it when the service comes up for swing arm bearings, and new rear tire, and brakes...and, Oh damn, almost forgot the cush drive,and.... S.H.

[Richard]

Would that be an anti-bodge?

 

Seriously, I'm not sure if this would work or not. My bike was on the bench for so long, it's been a *really* long time since I've attempted to lube the shaft. My memory is fuzzy, but from what I recall, a long needle w/ an angled tip would have made short work of it.

 

__Jason

Sorry, which shaft are you talking about.....?!?!?!

 

 

It's been a long evening.....

[jtucker]

Sorry, which shaft are you talking about.....?!?!?!

 

 

It's been a long evening.....

 

The one that's occasionally been known to... um, explode...

 

__Jason

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

I want to do this right like Greg recommends -so...

 

1/ having taken swing arm off, do I have to use some sort of puller to get the uj out or is it ok to tap it out from the rear, through the tunnel?

 

2/ Everything I've seen so far looks to be good, no unreasonably shiny grooves & swarf, still greasy -which is amazing given the amount of play in the swing arm bearings -is that how they're supposed to be -do the threaded pins take the strain?

[raz]

I want to do this right like Greg recommends -so...

 

1/ having taken swing arm off, do I have to use some sort of puller to get the uj out or is it ok to tap it out from the rear, through the tunnel?

 

2/ Everything I've seen so far looks to be good, no unreasonably shiny grooves & swarf, still greasy -which is amazing given the amount of play in the swing arm bearings -is that how they're supposed to be -do the threaded pins take the strain?

I don't get your first question (tap out from rear what?). My shaft was easy to pull (by hand) from the output shaft splines after loosening the lock nuts. EDIT wait a minute, you don't even have a naked shaft on a Jackal, do you? You should not need to do this at all!

 

Swing arm bearings should have no play. If you're lucky you should just tighten the pins. The bearings are a major PITA to get out.

[Distilled Waters Run Deep]

I don't get your first question (tap out from rear what?). My shaft was easy to pull (by hand) from the output shaft splines after loosening the lock nuts. EDIT wait a minute, you don't even have a naked shaft on a Jackal, do you? You should not need to do this at all!

 

Swing arm bearings should have no play. If you're lucky you should just tighten the pins. The bearings are a major PITA to get out.

Ah! Thanks Raz, saved a good bit of hassle there... explains all that stuff about grease nipples where I haven't got any! If I had a naked shaft thrashing through the grit I reckon I'd be slipping a condom on it -an old inner tube?

 

At least it means I know the state of the sw/ arm bearings -can't imagine how a bike with only 22k on it could have such swivelling bearings... I reckon a bit of heat should loosen them up enough (all needs repainting anyway -they use a lot of salt grit in Wales) -too much of a knock & the bearings look like they'll disintegrate.

[raz]

Ah! Thanks Raz, saved a good bit of hassle there... explains all that stuff about grease nipples where I haven't got any! If I had a naked shaft thrashing through the grit I reckon I'd be slipping a condom on it -an old inner tube?

 

At least it means I know the state of the sw/ arm bearings -can't imagine how a bike with only 22k on it could have such swivelling bearings... I reckon a bit of heat should loosen them up enough (all needs repainting anyway -they use a lot of salt grit in Wales) -too much of a knock & the bearings look like they'll disintegrate.

I used lots and lots of heat plus ultraviolence and got one of them out. The other one wouldn't move at all regardless of how much I heated it. The variuos blind pullers I tried couldn't hold enough. I ended up cutting it to pieces with a dremel. Several others have reported the same. Apparently they did not mask the bearing surface when painting the swing arm. The tricky part about dremelling is to avoid cutting the swing arm itself, it's harder than it sounds.

 

Then again, with a really good blind puller for that exact dimension, a Chech beer and patience and you'll be fine. Good luck!