slowkitty Posted March 15, 2008 Posted March 15, 2008 Hiya, I am asking this for a mate that has a downed Sport v1100i with a bad rectifier. I understand that it uses the same one as the Ducati monster, but is it model specific i.e. Monster 620 or 900 or what? How do I go about checking the specs to make sure that it fit, apart from the attachment points 9which also double as grounding points)? Cheers Cat
callison Posted March 15, 2008 Posted March 15, 2008 Hiya, I am asking this for a mate that has a downed Sport v1100i with a bad rectifier. I understand that it uses the same one as the Ducati monster, but is it model specific i.e. Monster 620 or 900 or what? How do I go about checking the specs to make sure that it fit, apart from the attachment points 9which also double as grounding points)? Cheers Cat To which I'll offer a post off of the nearly defunct okieguzzi forum at Yahoo. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last night Cathy's 98 EV with the hack went dead, without any warning. This happened once before at a gaggle. This time we were just a few miles from home. It had another (second ) Electrex R51 regulator in it. Prior to buying this one I was assured that they had beefed the new models. I was on the phone with them today and it was 2 months out of the one year warranty ,but they said they would back it any how if I would send it back. In the mean time I got an idea. The Harley has a similar single phase system . A friend owns a custom chopper shop and carries them from Custom Chrome PN25359. He let me take one home on loan. I was able to run the test without modifying it . At 4000 RPM's ,I get 13.88 Vdc. That is with a battery that reads 12.95 VDC at rest prior to starting. It does take a bit of modifying , I had to drill a hole in the mounting plate , Change the ends on the two leads going to the alternator. On thing it does not have , is a lead going to the Batt indicator light. I use meters anyhow. Here is the info off the label For Big twin models from 1976 to 1980. OEM 74510-75A 74512-79A Price he had on the box was $51.99 My suggestion is keep this information on the bike so if you should have a problem on a trip you have a alternative to renting a truck carry your bike home. Russ Marooney
CFB Posted March 18, 2008 Posted March 18, 2008 I'd suggest upgrading to a Shindengen, or similar, rather than replacing the Ducati rectifier. I installed a Shindengen DU-627, but I believe that model has been superceded. Bolted straight in, no mods - aside from need to connect an earth lead, which is a step up anyway from earthing through he case. I'll see if I still have the Ducati case lurking in the garage to post an image. Despite the encapsulation epoxy, or whatever it is, I found white fluffy corrosion on the interior which going by my ohm-meter was not conductive. Not good, given the power transistors were bolted to the case to help shed their heat. Hot transistors, especially encapsulated, don't last very long. Double biatch in that its only a $2 transistor that equals one very dead rectifier, but with all the epoxy its completely impossible to get to the transistor.
Murray Posted March 19, 2008 Posted March 19, 2008 Not model specfic however I suggest you could use a acel one for a "big" mid 90's HD ie not a sporster. You loose the chage light and little bit of soldering but at a quarter the price well worth it IMO. I have had one for around 80 000kms and its never missed a beat.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now