2000 V11 Sport w/ Transmission "anomaly"

[hailbob]

All,

 

I own a beautiful 2000 V11 Sport with 11k miles. Intermittenly, when shifting the shift lever does not return to the correct position immediately. it will after a very short time.

 

I have read about the Transmission Shift Pawl Failure. Could my symptoms be due to ENLARGED BOSS causing rubbage of return spring and delayed shift lever performance?

 

yes, the VIN is within the range given in the FAQ. I am assuming the frame number=VIN.

 

also, i am in richmond virginia and would like to meet other guzzisti.

 

okay, after reading this it sounds very much like the shift boss. is there anyone in the richmond area who has experience with this issue and willing to give me some help?

 

thanks,

hailbob

[Guest frankdugo]

have you taken the shifter out &greased it? did mine a few weeks ago.vast improvement,easily done.

[Guest ratchethack]

Bob, to my knowledge, no 2000 Sport ever had the shift boss/pawl spring problem. Also, the boss/pawl spring binding problem on the only range of VINs with the problem ('02's as I recall?) hasn't given the symptoms you describe. You may be confusing the two separate problems and ranges of VINs? Just to clarify -- The trans recall, which probably includes your Sport (it included mine) doesn't involve the pawl spring, nor would anything to do with the replacement parts on the recall give the symptoms you describe. The pawl spring lets go abruptly -- works fine and then it's gone.

 

Have you eliminated the shift linkage as a source of the problem? The bolt at the shift arm on the transmission at the forward end of the link that secures the spherical bushing there is notorious for backing out very slowly over time, and can cause symptoms similar to what you describe. Mine did this at about the same mileage as yours, so did my Pal's '04 LM. The solution was taking out the starter motor and threadlocking the bolt. It's been 100% perfect ever since in both cases.

 

Hope this helps.

 

EDIT: Wot Frank said about lubing the shift lever shaft. The Luigi's left mine and many others dry. Adjust the end float on the inboard nut.

[GuzziMoto]

Yes I attribute that to a mismatch in size between the spring and the shaft. Supposedly it will eventually break(I'm sure it will), but my wifes bike has been doing that for over 35k miles. I think how you shift may play a part in how long it takes to break. Was your bike part of the trans recall and if so they could have corrected the issue then.

[richard100t]

The v11 is very well made as far as adjustability. Nearly everything on the bike can be moved around to suit your tastes. You need to remove the starter to access everything with the shifter linkage.. Keep making small adjustments then sit on the bike & work the shift lever with your foot until you're happy with it.

I wasnt really happy with my shift lever either until I got it the way that I wanted it to be. Another hint for better shifting action is to replace the gear oil with Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil. It really does make a difference.

[Paul Minnaert]

this reads like you need to ajust the shift linking outside the engine. It might move against another part, seen it before.

And indeed take the starter engine of to get access. And first disconnet the battery.

[Dan M]

One more thing, I had similar trouble with the selector arm hanging up and not returning to center after releasing the shifter. The paste that had accumulated in the mechanism was causing it to drag. A clean out and switch to Redline SH as suggested above cured it.

[dlaing]

Like the others suggested:

Redline ShockProof

Clean and Adjust linkage

 

Does it stick on both up-shifts and down-shifts?

If it does not stick on both, but only on up or only on down, it may indicate that the adjuster under the acorn needs adjustment.

But try the other stuff first as adjusting the screw under the acorn can be tricky.

Actually it is easy, but requires patience to get it right by trial and error, but it can be done in under an hour.

Make small adjustments and then test ride.

Too much one way causes upshifts to fail, and too much the other causes downshifts to fail, all within less than a quarter turn.

My bike used to blow downshifts, I adusted it and it was much better, then many miles later it started blowing upshifts, and an adjustment made it happy again.

Shockproof and clean linkage has also helped.

[docc]

also, i am in richmond virginia and would like to meet other guzzisti.

 

okay, after reading this it sounds very much like the shift boss. is there anyone in the richmond area who has experience with this issue and willing to give me some help?

 

thanks,

hailbob

halibob,

 

What others have said about cleaning/adjusting the outside shift mechanism and changing to Redline will likely solve your trouble.

 

To meet other Guzzisti, come to the South'n Spine Raid at the end of May just over the mountains near Knoxville. (See that thread under "Meetings and Clubs).

[Steve G.]

My bike has had the recall notice gearbox upgrade. This 'anomoly' you describe, my bike has done this before and after the recall gearbox re-build. I don't know what it is, but I have found that it does it only when ripping hard through the gears on acceleration. And only sometimes. I get the shifter to come back to it's proper 'centre by decelerating using the gearbox, it snaps back to centre.

I have put it down to 'another Guzzi thing'.

Steve

[hailbob]

All,

 

Thnaks for the replies. I will clean and adjust the shift mechanism this week, and will post a follow up. will also look into the south 'n spine raid in may.

 

thanks

hailbob

[docc]

The more you tinker with that Guzzi, the better it gets!

 

Hope to see you in May.

[Ouiji Veck]

Adjuster under acorn nut gets my vote.

Adjust and lube your linkage first and if that dosen't get it move

on to the Acorn / Nut adjuster.

It's right behind the starter...and the best way to adj. is to... adj.- test-repeat

What's going on is your changing a cam that works with the gear selector.

The trick is you need to restart / ride after each adjustment.

The starter can be left on if you have a sacraficial 17mm (15mm?) wrench to cut

in half (1/3?) and a 5mm (?) allen to sacrfice also. (0r was that for a different project? I forget..) A couple seconds on a grinding wheel and

shazzammm!! You got a couple jeenuine certified Guzzi tools.

 

I guess this sounds pretty convoluted but if you've been down there monkeying

around already and put your thinking cap on...find the Acorn nut we're talking about

you'll figure it out. The idea is to do the adj. without taking off the starter each time.

It sounds like your pretty close to set correctly and within 1/8 of a turn on the

slotted screw...one way or the other...that's the trick..which way to turn the slotted adj.

screw...hence..adjust / ride / adjust /ride

1. Spin off the acorn nut with your new genuine Guzzi wrench...put it someplace safe (aww..that never works..)

2. Loosen the lock nut and give the slotted screw a 1/16 turn in one direction or the other then

re tighten the lock nut.

3. Test ride and note shifting. (take your special Guzzi tools with you)

4 Repeat until desired results. ( 4 or 5 tries should do it..one direction or the other)

5. Replace acorn nut.........go play.

Good luck and don't burn your hand.....

[Guest ratchethack]

Hm. Seems there's still some confusion about how the internal shift mechanism works. As discussed in another thread recently, the only circumstance where adjustment of the eccentric pin (secured by the locknut under the acorn nut on the trans) is warranted is when the trans consistently fails to shift from one gear to the next (up or down). Adjustment of the eccentric pin simply controls the travel of the internal ratcheting pawl. If travel is insufficient in one direction or the other, it will fail to engage the next gear. Provide slightly more travel with adjustment, it allows engagement.

 

As others have said above, hanging of the shift lever up or down is NOT related to failure of the trans to select the next gear, OR improper adjustment of the eccentric pin. IMHO -- again -- this is most likely due to interference with free movement of the external linkage. First order of business is check and correct for accumulated debris at or around the external mechanism, loose bolts at forward spherical joint and/or pinch-bolt on external shift arm on the trans, and/or insufficient lube at the shift lever shaft.

 

AGAIN -- leave us not be opening Pandora's box to fix wot ain't broke, Gents. Life is too short.

 

Egads! Now wot've I done?!

[Ouiji Veck]

Yup.....

If I miss a shift I go right to the linkage.

Poke it with a stick...spray on some goo...

She's good for another 5 or 10K mi. depending

on how many muddy, dusty back roads my GS buddies drag me

and the old girl down.

 

Yes, the Acorn Adj. seems to be a once in 40K mi fix.

(Or after taking off the side plate..as in my case...checking the "spring of ill repute")

 

So yea..linkage, linkage, linkage..

then adjuster...if necessary. But it's not complicated.

So easy even a caveman could do it.