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Posted

Hi there,

 

was just out for a ride today and my left side cylinder started tapping like crazy... Long story short is i hobbled it to my local guzzi shop here in vancouver and he pulled the cover off and one of the valves were loose. so he pulled the oil out, no metal, magnet came out clean. pulled the bottom end off and nothing in their either so he put it all back together and ran it around the block. Came back to the shop and the valves were out 40 thou already.

 

Bottom line, I had a cam replaced at 1000k after i bought the bike, and now this at 7k. I love this bike like my wife but this is really killing me. Im hoping even though im almost a year out of warranty that guzzi will cover this for me. Im looking at 2 grand at least to get his fixed with a new Cam again I would bet.

 

Has anyone had anything like this happen? What did you do? Any ideas for me?

 

At the end of my rope with this redhead...

 

Brooks

Posted
Hi there,

 

was just out for a ride today and my left side cylinder started tapping like crazy... Long story short is i hobbled it to my local guzzi shop here in vancouver and he pulled the cover off and one of the valves were loose. so he pulled the oil out, no metal, magnet came out clean. pulled the bottom end off and nothing in their either so he put it all back together and ran it around the block. Came back to the shop and the valves were out 40 thou already.

 

Bottom line, I had a cam replaced at 1000k after i bought the bike, and now this at 7k. I love this bike like my wife but this is really killing me. Im hoping even though im almost a year out of warranty that guzzi will cover this for me. Im looking at 2 grand at least to get his fixed with a new Cam again I would bet.

 

Has anyone had anything like this happen? What did you do? Any ideas for me?

 

At the end of my rope with this redhead...

 

Brooks

 

Couple of things. I hope that when the cam was replaced the followers were too? Secondly, before you become completely woebegone whip the offending rocker off and check the pushrod. It's not unknown for the ends to come loose/fall off or the rod to simply mushroom and collapse.

 

What year is the bike? 2003 seems to have been a bad year for cam hardening!

 

Pete

Posted
Couple of things. I hope that when the cam was replaced the followers were too? Secondly, before you become completely woebegone whip the offending rocker off and check the pushrod. It's not unknown for the ends to come loose/fall off or the rod to simply mushroom and collapse.

 

What year is the bike? 2003 seems to have been a bad year for cam hardening!

 

Pete

 

 

Thanks Pete,

 

I believe followers were replaced as well.. Its a 2004 bought in 05.. Pushrod looked fine when it came out, although ill check again to see if anything is missing off the end (didnt know there was anything on the end) ... The repair guy has about 30 yrs experience with bikes, so should have noticed something, but then again he knows triumph and guzzi but hadnt had a v11 motor apart. That being said, they havent changed much in 30 yrs.

 

bb

Posted

At our shop, Moto Intl., we saw 3-4 V11 cams go tits up in the last three years. It's always the exhaust lobe for the right cylinder. They seem to wear out, or not, in 5,000 miles or less. Oddly, we've had one more in each of the last two weeks go out. We haven't yet pulled the cams so we aren't sure which lobe on these.

 

When the stock cam was available, we replaced the worn cam with it. When the stock cam went on what Todd Haven (MPH Cycles) calls "intergalactic backorder," we replaced it with a Megacycle 620x9 cam, which drops right in, or a 620x10 cam, which requires checking clearances. IThe stock cam is no longer available and if ordered will be filled with a Breva 1100 cam. I'm not sure how the Breva cam compares in performance to the V11 cam. The X9 cam is nearly identical to the V11 cam but gives a little more from 2500 rpm on up.

 

This proves nothing, but I find it interesting to note by what I see at the shop that the predictions of doom regarding cam wear because of reformulated oils seems to be proving out. Use good oil . . .

 

A note: Castrol just reformulated their R4 oil, which used to be one of the few oils to carry a true SG rating. It is now SL. This means I have to find a new oil for the shop, since Guzzi is utterly adamant that the SG rating is necessary for all the hydraulic-lifter engines.

Posted
A note: Castrol just reformulated their R4 oil, which used to be one of the few oils to carry a true SG rating. It is now SL. This means I have to find a new oil for the shop, since Guzzi is utterly adamant that the SG rating is necessary for all the hydraulic-lifter engines.

Greg, (sorry, I know everyone hates to discuss oil)

the Griso 8V manual says to use oil matching or higher than CCMC G-4 API SG specs.

 

Can you elaborate on MG being adamant that nothing higher/later than SG should be used? Are they being condradictory (again), as it appears, or is there another interpretation?

Posted

It's always folly to try to guess what Guzzi means.

 

Nevertheless, here's what I THINK they mean: Use oil that meets at least the standards of the SG rating. Here's my imperfect understanding of that. The ratings higher alphabetically than SG (i.e. SH, SI, SJ, etc.) are not better for engines with flat-tappet cams such as all the Guzzis. In this respect (quantity of additives necessary for long life of flat-tappet cams), SG was the point at which each subsequent rating stopped getting better. From SH on after, each subsequent rating was worse. Cam regrinders're doing a bumper business of late.

Posted
It's always folly to try to guess what Guzzi means.

 

Nevertheless, here's what I THINK they mean: Use oil that meets at least the standards of the SG rating. Here's my imperfect understanding of that. The ratings higher alphabetically than SG (i.e. SH, SI, SJ, etc.) are not better for engines with flat-tappet cams such as all the Guzzis. In this respect (quantity of additives necessary for long life of flat-tappet cams), SG was the point at which each subsequent rating stopped getting better. From SH on after, each subsequent rating was worse. Cam regrinders're doing a bumper business of late.

Thanks. I see that the AGIP Racing 4T 10-60 that MG recommends is classed as API SG (or better). So if it's available, that looks like the one to use. About £11 per litre or £1,500 for 208 L drum.

Posted

So Greg, should i change my halfords synthetic 5w/40 oil it has a SL rating.

Gary

 

Just checked my bottle of halfords standard oil from the previous oil change 10w/40 has a SG rating. Maybe go back to that then. much cheaper than agip 5w/40 that guzzi reccomend for the v11, £11 a litre!!!

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