TPS (this piece o' shit)

[cycdude6]

Hello all,

OK, I'VE HAD IT!!!

I keep chasing the millivolt setting of 521mv at 1150 rpm idle and it's not working. In addition I get 0mv with key on and kill switch in, what's up with that? Bike runs lousy and eats gas, please any legitimate help will be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

 

John

jjshields01@snet.net

[jtucker]

TPS's have been known to fail. If you can't get a reading off of it no matter what you do, then it could very well be dead.

 

__Jason

[cycdude6]

TPS's have been known to fail. If you can't get a reading off of it no matter what you do, then it could very well be dead.

 

__Jason

 

Ok, but if it failed the bike wouldn't run. Right?

 

Anyway, I'm not the only one with a Zero reading key on, kill switch in.

[Tom M]

For instance, I can't get any reading from the TPS when the key is on and the kill switch is pressed in, none, zero, zip, nada. I would love to get some real help here, simple direct and to the point. The guzzi dealers in my area are unwilling to help me sort this out. Please, anybody out there who knows what they're doing? Anybody near CT?

 

John

jjshields01@snet.net

 

If your kill switch is in the RUN position and the key is on you should be able to get a TPS reading. If not your probes aren't making contact, assuming the bike still runs.

 

I'm one of the guys who had better luck with the "Micha method" posted in this thread. Give it a try and report back with any problems. Here are the steps that Mr Bean posted with a couple edits by me:

 

Step one - Set your valves to world settings

Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn

Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm)

Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only

Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (532mV)

Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero. This must be done with an AXEONE or VDST software, one of which your dealer should have.

 

Good luck.

[gstallons]

I know how you feel. I adjusted mine to specs. with a popcorn popper result.

Your best bet is to approach it this way: Make sure you are using a pin type probe to access the connector. probe pin #11 at the computer. You can ground the DVM to the case of the computer. These connections are much easier there than at the t.p.s. If the neutral light is NOT working get the side stand up or disable the switch. Nothing will work until this is done. With the key on you should get a voltage reading. If not check pins #1 or #18 for 5v reference.One of these is Vref and the other is gnd.

Now I have just synched and balanced the throttle bodies, adjusted the t.p.s. on my bike and it ran so s****y i wanted to jump on this thing like Godzilla. I cranked the t.p.s. around to where there were equal holes showing in the adjustment slots and it ran GREAT. I am going to check it with a DVM tonight to see how far off it is from 0.545v. I have an appointment with a shop in Cape Girardeau,Mo 5-03 to check and or re-map the PowerCommander. I will let you know what happens.

[Guest frankdugo]

hang in there john!all will be well.take a break&let the little grey cells work.read the posts,recall someone posting a pic of a pigtail to get at those tps leads.

[gstallons]

After I got home I checked the t.p.s. voltage for idle speed voltage KOEO and got .980v. HTH.....

gene

[gstallons]

After I got home I checked the t.p.s. voltage for idle speed voltage KOEO and got .980v. HTH.....

gene

ADDENDUM......The pin locations were for an 03 sport.yours might be different. Also contact guzzitech for a cd that contains parts,service,and a good rerun from a Speed Channel program about MG for about $25.

[cycdude6]

After I got home I checked the t.p.s. voltage for idle speed voltage KOEO and got .980v. HTH.....

 

Great, now another number to consider....lol, it gets curioser and curioser.

Anyway, what little success I've had with the TPS was using the Micha protocol and that's been seconded by Tom H. (thank you Tom).

The problem for me is in trying to sort out what works and what doesn't among all the specs and advice given here. As has been suggested I'm going to drop back, start over when I'm calm (is that wrench still stuck in the wall where I threw it?) and proceed in an orderly fashion. God I love riding the Guzzi but the work to make it right seems daunting at the moment...

 

1) I've been misinformed by some comments on this site i.e. the kill switch must be in. That's a fallacy, there's no power to the TPS with the kill switch in.

2) If I follow the directions for 150mv setting, I'm afraid I won't be able to get the throttle bodies back to normal after backing off the right idle screw, disconnecting the balancing linkage and changing the bypass screws. How the heck do you set the right idle screw after your done? I have no idea.

3) I was able to get the bike running again by moving the TPS to the highest idle and then backing off the left idle screw to get 1150 rpm. The mv readings are all over the map now, tho.

4) I assume the butterflies must be open a tad at idle, otherwise the TPS for running and not running would be the same. Is this true? And does this verify the procedure that requires backing everything off to acheive 150 mv?

5) Called two moto guzzi dealers so far and both say they can not set the CO trim. What's up with that?

6) And finally this is a great site with great people, I'm grateful that I have y'all to turn to.

Thank you,

John and the rosso diablo ballabio

[gstallons]

How to synch. your throttle bodies.

Prior to doing anything push the throttle to filter housing pipes back or remove the K&N filters to make things easier.

#1 attach pull type springs to each throttle body (holding them shut) throttle lever.

#2 disconnect the linkage rod on the right side then back out each throttle adjusting screw til you have a visible air gap and make sure the fast idle cam is NOT a factor on the rh side. there is a screw to get this lever out of the way.

#2a if you want to set the tps to 150mv now is the time.

#3 place a .002" feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the part of the lever it touches.The screws should be adjusted til the feeler gauge has a drag holding it in place.

#4 back the linkage nut off a few turns,then attach the rod back to the throttle body.The feeler gauges will fall out a few times in this process but don't worry it is fun.

#5 now tighten the linkage rod til the rh feeler gauge falls out.Tighten the jam nut, remove all the trinkets. Reconnct air boots,filter, etc.

#6 to each his own: min air screw 1/2 or 1 turn out from stop. Start engine and allow engine to warm-up. After engine is fully warm set idle speed with the l.h.idle screw. 2.5 mm allen wrench if the screw is not worn out. If so get a torx or standard size allen wrench to make adjustments. DO NOt touch r.h. side adjustment screw.

#7 remember the fast idle cam needs it's adjustment. Push the lever to the the fast idle cam leaving a little clearance for idle speed adjustment.Now tighten this screw so you won't have to order a new one.

p.s. if you want more advice and or confusion= 270-335-5374 after 3pm cst.