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Posted
Why is this offset there? Is it a manufacturing problem or more a photographer's thing?

 

If you talk about Beetles: are you sure that the adjusterscrews were placed at the valve shafts? I think it was the same principle as on every other push rod driven engine. Simple question: how would the pushrods be fixed/centered without this ball joint?

 

The offset is a byproduct of the angle of the shot. A trick of the eye. Remember, the camera always lies! [but does so predictably...] ;) OTOH, the offset may be there on purpose to add some rotation to the valve in operation, to prevent it from wearing into the seat in one spot. My money is on a combination of the two... :thumbsup:

I seem to remember setting the valves on the VW w/ the adjusters at the valve stem, but quite truthfully, it was so long ago, and I was lying on my back under a dark car(1), & frankly, I was just interested in getting done with it & buttoned back up so I could be on the road, so I could be mistaken. But regardless, that's what that type of adjuster does & why it's used.

 

 

(1) - Always wear safety glasses when working on your VDub! DAMHIK :rolleyes:

Posted

I found this picture, Skeeve, to refresh your memories:

 

Hako1269.JPG

 

It's a bit small, but colourful, and it shows that you were right with the overall arrangement.

 

More pictures here: Technolab

 

Hubert

Posted

FWIW I did the 'First Service' on my 8V today and the tappets that I had originally been worried about because they were as tight as buggery were all as loose as a whore's draws! Obviously there's a bit of settling in to be done. Better loose than tight though.

 

Despite the 'Oh the sky is falling' attitude of a few old conservatives all my observations seem to indicate that the new motor is a lovely and briliant thing. No, it isn't a V11, I know that, but it is a huge step forward, as the original *new* Aprilia designed/built bikes were on the whole. I know that a lot of youse will be hoping for a 'Nuovo LeMans' and I think it will come, but I think it will be kept a fairly close secret before it is launched.

 

If I ever can pik up my Scura I'll live it dearly too, but time marches on, no bike is an island, or even a peninsular. The V11 has been superceeded, we all have to accept that, but I can see parts hoarding becoming a common thing for enthuiasts in a few years time in a manner that was never imagineable with loop frames or Tontis!

 

Pete

Posted
any bit in particular?

 

 

Could you take the motor apart? I have seen the CAD drawings but would like to see thebits in the flesh. Better yet, section the motor so you can see the internals working!

 

Never mind, I see luhbo has done it. Your motor is safe!

Posted
Despite the 'Oh the sky is falling' attitude of a few old conservatives all my observations seem to indicate that the new motor is a lovely and briliant thing. No, it isn't a V11, I know that, but it is a huge step forward

 

The good news is that in true Guzzi style the new motor gets even better with miles- I've only done 1300 miles on the Stelvio so far but she gets better with every ride. The motor is fine for pottering around or cruising, but when you want to get a fast lick on keep her above 5k and she takes off very well for a Guzzi.

 

Pete- did you do your first service at 1000kms or did you wait until 1500kms as per the handbook? My local dealer was surprised to hear that the factory wanted it done at 1500kms, and did mine at the usual 1000kms.

 

Guy :helmet:

Posted
Could it work as indicated on this picture?

 

4vslideruc9.jpg

 

Why is this offset there? Is it a manufacturing problem or more a photographer's thing?

 

If you talk about Beetles: are you sure that the adjusterscrews were placed at the valve shafts? I think it was the same principle as on every other push rod driven engine. Simple question: how would the pushrods be fixed/centered without this ball joint?

 

Hubert

Interesting!

I did not notice that it might slide there, only that it was locked in at the ball joint.

But that offset does not look healthy to by two valve traditionalist bias swayed eyes.

Posted

There is end float in the rocker arms. How much? Buggered if I know? Less than a mm, more than 1/4 of a mm? Not enough to exert overly large side loadings on the valve as I see it.

 

Interestingly, at my '1st Service' the tappets had all opened up a motza. No worries, they'd all done it by roughly the same amount but obviously something has been wearing/settling in. Still goes like shit off a shiny shovel so I'm happy :D . MAkes a whining noise from the gears, especially when cold, like an old XJ Yammy! Rattles a bit when it gets hotter too, but it's a consistent noise so nothing to worry about in my book.

 

Pete

Posted
Could you take the motor apart? I have seen the CAD drawings but would like to see thebits in the flesh. Better yet, section the motor so you can see the internals working!

 

Never mind, I see luhbo has done it. Your motor is safe!

I was hoping that no-one would ask that. Now I feel obliged to do it.

 

However there are some good modeling diagrams on the web. When I find them again I'll post a link. I think that Paul M. originally posted them? That may save my bacon, er, goose.

 

Luhbo's pic is Vee Dub pot I think.

 

BTW

why are folk perturbed by what they're calling the 'offset'? Surely the width of the piece just allows for movement of the rocker on its shaft? It would have been a bit silly to make it exactly the same diameter as the valve stem????

Posted
Luhbo's pic is Vee Dub pot I think.

 

Yes, for Skeeve.

 

....why are folk perturbed by what they're calling the 'offset'? Surely the width of the piece just allows for movement of the rocker on its shaft? It would have been a bit silly to make it exactly the same diameter as the valve stem????

 

At first glance I thought they haven't really met the center when they drilled the rocker arm, but now it makes more sense. More sense to put the same question again. This offset is quite large. If you could be so gentle and generously take two other pictures, this time aligned to the rocker arm's axis, then things would become a bit clearer I guess. First shot - valves closed; second shot - valves open. On the first picture the bucket should be hanging over one side, on the second one now the bucket should hang over the other side.

 

Now one other question is: what makes more miles per hour, the buckets or the whole bike? Is there a critical bucket speed?

 

BTW, you've seen Stefan Raab speeding a wok down a bobsleigh run?

 

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=mH-aMpLnVgY

 

Critical wok speed was around 75 km/h

 

Hubert

Posted
Pete- did you do your first service at 1000kms or did you wait until 1500kms as per the handbook? My local dealer was surprised to hear that the factory wanted it done at 1500kms, and did mine at the usual 1000kms.

 

Guy :helmet:

 

I did mine at about 800kms/500 miles like I have on every bike I've ever worked on/rebuilt, (The 1200 is only my second ever *new* quality bike. The first was my 1100.) Given my concerns about the lack of valve clearance when I did the PD I didn't want to leave it longer.

 

Only thing I've noticed since the 1st service is that if I ride it from home to the centre of Bungendore, about 1.2Km. it is then reluctant to idle. it seems like the stepper motor can't compensate for that not-quite-warm-oil-still-cold situation. Ride another three or for Kms? Everything is peachy! Weird! That doesn't worry me. I mean it's not like it's an *issue* it's just a quirk and not one I can be bothered doing anything about. It could be simply the fact that i've changed the oil I'm now using a 10/70 rather than the AGIP 10/60 and it dooes seem a bit thicker when cold so viscous drag will be greater. Just spend a couple more minutes pobbling before opening the taps. No problem.

 

Pete

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