Kick stand, broken casting

[badmotogoozer]

 

I've decided to get the upper casting welded, on the bike.

 

[/endquote]

 

If you are welding on the bike make sure to remove the ecu from the bike completely. You'll likely fry it (ala Ewan Mac) with the high current/frequency.

[Ryland3210]

 

If you are welding on the bike make sure to remove the ecu from the bike completely. You'll likely fry it (ala Ewan Mac) with the high current/frequency.

 

Yes, and disconnect the battery.

 

Sensors and electronic tach are also sensitive. The ground lead of the welder should be connected to the casting, and close to the repair area to minimize the risk of damaging them. A skilled welder experienced with welding on equipment with electronics involved will know this, but it's worth making sure.

[EnduroGuzzi]

Thanks BMG, Ryland.

 

I had thought about doing the whole electrical system disconnect. I've Lost too much electronic equipment to bad electrical stuff (off-grid) to not have that painful memory right up front! I will learn if enough pain is applied.

[Guest ratchethack]

I've decided to get the upper casting welded, on the bike.

EG, PLEASE don't have this welded on the bike -- I'm begging you!

 

In your opening post you mentioned looking for some kinda "ghetto repair" -- There are many shops in Tijuana who'd do it with low-grade, low-temp cheapo welding rod on the bike. There are no doubt many opportunities here to make it lots worse than it was to start with.

 

Though the woods 'r full 'o "welders" of every stretch o' the handle who've got some kinda shingle on their sheds (I are a welder! ) who'll gladly DO IT -- you don't want that, and anybody who'd DO IT -- you don't want THAT GUY to touch it!

 

It's easy enough to have the sump spacer off! This way it can be properly cleaned and prepped, and a real Pro can have at it on his bench with clear access to all sides of the WHOLE CASTING, where he can properly control the heat flow on the whole piece, and won't have to compromise the depth of penetration all around the cracked boss for a proper job that he'd never have wilst on his knees &/or physically unable to get to the underside of it -- not to mention it's IMMEDIATELY next to the sump itself!!

 

With the sump spacer off, you won't risk heating up the block way past risk of warping it, cooking the gaskets, the o-rings, the oil pressure relief valve, incinerating the residual oil and varnish, all the stuff that could wind up taking other components out -- etc.

 

If you're going to do it -- make the relatively small effort required to do it RIGHT!

 

BAA, TJM, & YMMV

[savagehenry]

, with all due regards to "stupid"...there's VERY little effort to have that piece on a bench for a proper fix. And now you might as well put in a Roper plate while yer there. "Luck favors the Prepared" :bier:S.H.

[dlaing]

I don't know much at all about welding, but... and also,

[Jim in NZ]

I also broke that casting above the sump when I wheeled the bike backwards into the garage with the stand down, and caught it on the raised edge of the concrete floor. The casting was very porous, and there was one particularly large air hole connecting with the threaded hole for the sidestand bolt, which would have weakened it significantly.

 

I'm no metallurgist, but the casting looked like crap and I thought it would not weld successfully. I was also worried about warping the oil-sealing faces and having to get them reground. It could have worked out almost as expensive as buying a new one, and then it could have broken again! So I bought a new one and discovered that it was just as porous as the original, complete with another large air space taking out half of the thread in the hole. No wonder the bloody thing breaks!

 

One problem - the top gasket that I was supplied with (01003650) was just a rectangular gasket that went around the bottom of the crankcase. It didn't have the extra bits that the original gasket had, to provide gasket sealing where the oil filter holder bolts on to the crankcase at the front and rear. I cut through the original gasket to remove it, and didn't remove the oil filter holder. Next time I would want the correct gasket, but I don't know the number. The one shown in the parts manual appears to be wrong. It needs to have an extra rectangular section attached to the front and rear faces for the oil filter holder. Does anyone know the correct number for next time?

 

Good luck with the repair - you may prove me wrong about the crappy casting.

 

Cheers,

Jim.

[Ryland3210]

I wasn't impressed with the die cast Centauro levers I bought, either. In general, my experience with Italian die casting machine designs is that they are among the world's best, so the fault lies with the casting shop. The castings I received were, without exaggeration, of the lowest quality I had seen any company have the nerve to ship, with obvious missfills and blow holes. A heavy dose of sandblasting was used to attempt hiding them. I can't say I'm surprised to hear of voids in threaded areas. The heavy wall thicknesses required around threaded bosses are prone to missfills and shrinkage voids as they freeze late. It's a challenge even with the best process control.

[EnduroGuzzi]

So, I'm lazy and sick of things breaking. I've decided to replace the upper sump casting. Fortunately, MI (thanks Greg) can get me one in a week. Less painful than expected, $135 or something like that. Like I said the bike was a salvage from a former list member (who wasn't seriously harmed) who had an SUV pull a lefty in front of him. I've replaced all the "structural" parts, footpegs, valve covers, turn signals. Even though it did not look like it got whacked, the bike crashed on the side with KS and it could've gotten bumped.

 

For your enjoyment:

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the advice.

 

EG

[Jet]

Opening an old dusty thread! 

 

I fixed my previous electrical issue, with the help of Kiwi Roy sending me some electrical maps however I now have discovered something else....FUN to deal with. A Broken Casting for my Kickstand mount. Ill post a photo when I get my camera at it and better lighting. I noticed there was a tiny wiggle in the assembly area and on closer inspection there is a crack where the bolt is completely separated from the casing. The large bolt is still intact, but I am concerned about its strength. 

 

Im going to need a new....Ring Case? Oil Spacer? I do not know the actual name of the part but by the looks of it this may be it. 

 

Moto International? MG Cycle? Anybody have a spare? While its off, maybe I should invest  in the Ropper Slopper? 

 

I would rather not bodge anything together, I have read about welding and brazing JB Weld etc...... i have money, Ill do it right. 

 

Ill probably give a few companies a shout tomorrow and see whats available, I wouldn't mind getting it ASAP as far as riding season goes here in the north its been great! 

 

Thanks, 

[czakky]

Moto international has them for relatively cheap. In the process of repairing mine too.

[docc]

Such a weak link, perhaps unique to the V11. All in a noble effort to make the side stand "ergonomic." That and the wire loop "lever" that doesn't figure to last.

A reminder to us all to keep these fasteners snugged up (especially the "upper" engine case bolt!) and the whole Rube Goldberg affair well lubricated.

 

If the "flange" has to come off, I would certainly add a  P.roper Sloppage Sheet in the process. Accept no substitutes!

 

 

 

[docc]

A chink in the V11 armor:

[Jet]

Thanks Doc, my search has been relentless with all the immediate "Go to" guys. It appears Harper has what I am looking for, hoping it is the appropriate variation, should hear back soon. 

 

http://www.harpermoto.com/sump-flange-blk-semi-gloss-01003290.html

 

I am thinking while the bottom is off the bike I may purchase some of that Harley black crinkle paint and give the sump a spray. I noticed it could use a little love, and maybe the alternator cover as well. Im not sure i would use the same spray though. 

 

I believe Scud mentioned it a while ago, there sure are a lot of parts to make that kickstand work. 

 

Now on to source out a P.Ropper Slopage plate! 

[FalcoLion]

Well, I am dealing with the same issue but I paid a lot less. I can probably get this sump extention to anyone for about $150 delivered anywhere in the USA. At least I did it for myself 2 month ago.

 

Just wondering if anyone know what kind of paste is on the internal screws that hold sump extention to the block. I read that some people use blue loctite on the internal screws and antiseize on screws that hold sump to sump extention