Sidestand Switch

[Tomcat]

Correct me if I'm wrong please, but isn't this switch supposed to be depressed by the kickstand when it is down? If I understand how this is supposed to work, when the switch is depressed, the bike can't be put into gear without killing the engine. I just got this bike afew weeks ago and I'm still getting familiar with everything. Will somebody post a pic of what this switch should look like please? I suspect that either the plunger that acuates this has been somehow shortened or the swicth was replaced at some point with the wrong part. The plunger doesn't come anywhere near making contact as you can see. Thanks.

 

Tomcat

 

 

 

[Guest ratchethack]

Tomat, your understanding of the function and purpose of the switch is correct, but it's generally pretty tough to troubleshoot a switch by looking at photo's.

 

The thing to do if it doesn't function as you've correctly supposed, is to test continuity across the switch. You can do this with a DMM, DVOM, ABCDEVM, or any VM you want -- or if you prefer, simply use a battery with a couple of wires and a light bulb. The thing is adjustable. If you get make/brake across the contacts by activating the plunger by poking it with something, but the stand doesn't make it switch, there are 2 ways to adjust the activation of the switch -- re-locating the switch itself, and re-locating the thing that looks like a carriage bolt on the stand itself. Simply back off the adjuster nut, screw the thing in the appropriate direction until the stand operates the switch properly, and Bob's y'er Mum's favorite (or maybe not?) sibling.

 

Any more Q's, post 'em here.

 

EDIT! ACK! Taking a closer look at photo #2, you're missing the above mentioned "carriage bolt" and its adjuster nut! This would explain the non-function of the switch! I'd get a proper replacement bolt in there with a locknut on it, and I reckon you're in business.

[Tomcat]

Thanks for the reply. Can't picture in my head what this proper bolt looks like. Any chance you could post a pic of the proper configuration? Like I said, I just got this bike not long ago and I'm not very familiar with how some of these bits looked when they were new. As far as adjustment, the switch is all the way down now. No more threads left to bring it closer to the sidestand. That's what makes me wonder if this is even the right switch in the first place. Thanks for the help.

 

Tomcat

[Guest ratchethack]

Tomcat, I'm not gonna find the camera to photo mine, but in photo #2 above, there's a threaded hole in the kickstand itself, in the little "nub" that's most outboard when the stand is in the "up" position. This needs a bolt in it with an adjuster nut on it. On my Guzzi, the face of the head of it is ~13 mm from the stand itself.

 

Hope this helps.

[Tomcat]

You're absolutely right. There is an adjustable bolt missing from the sidestand. After your last post, I found a diagram of the original setup in an online parts manual and there it was, a socket head type bolt with a locknut that would obviously make contact with the switch plunger when adjusted properly. I will find a suitable replacement. Thanks for the advice.

 

Tomcat

[Tom M]

FYI the bolt that's missing is not a standard hardware store type bolt. It has a domed head so it doesn't fold the plastic plunger tip of the switch over. A smooth topped hex bolt might work there, but the Guzzi part definitely won't damage the switch as long as it's adjusted correctly. (Mine wasn't and it damaged the switch )

[Baldini]

I was just replacing these bits....

 

The correct screw from Guzzi is only 18pence...cheapest price I ever paid for any Guzzi bit...on the other hand, the switch costs over £20 from Guzzi (so watch how much you tighten the locknut on the end of it....yes - I didn't)...

 

KB

[Guest ratchethack]

FYI the bolt that's missing is not a standard hardware store type bolt. It has a domed head so it doesn't fold the plastic plunger tip of the switch over. A smooth topped hex bolt might work there, but the Guzzi part definitely won't damage the switch as long as it's adjusted correctly. (Mine wasn't and it damaged the switch )

Aye. Good point.

. . .a socket head type bolt. . .

As mentioned previously, it's a carriage bolt -- not a socket head bolt! (Yes, this is important.)

 

Now this is just me, but lacking a local fastener supplier likely to have such a thing in metric sizes, as a dedicated shade-tree cobbler, my inclination would be to source a standard stainless bolt of the correct size and thread pitch, chuck it up in a drill, dome the head off with a grinder, and hit it with a few passes of emery paper until it looks sumpin' like this:

 

garden variety carriage bolt

 

-- But o' course, that's just me.

[Tomcat]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I ordered a replacement from Harper's MG today.

 

Tomcat

[Guest frankdugo]

im, old school.disconnected mine having learned to ride before law suit heaven. troubled shot a buddy's le mans for a couple of hrs before finding the no start problem was that switch.i was very embarressd the first time i rode the bike, i stalled it and had to be rescued.could not figure out why it would not start! my intro to the safe switch.-----if it has not been done already i would take off all polution control,put a bolt in the cylinder head.

[twhitaker]

On my LeMans the screw is simply a hex screw. On the Centauro the screw has been removed. If I could make the beast run with the sidestand down like the LeMans does, I would put the screw back in.