ALdad Posted May 20, 2008 Posted May 20, 2008 I was looking at my fuel system contemplating the best cure for my vapor lock problem when I noticed one of the wires to the fuel solenoid is broken off. By the looks of it it has been that way for a sometime. The bike runs fine, except when I have the vapor lock I posted about yesterday. What should I do about the wire. I guess the valve is in the open position or it would'nt run. Would it be possible for it to close unexpectedly? Should I disconnect it alltogether?
Steve G. Posted May 20, 2008 Posted May 20, 2008 I was looking at my fuel system contemplating the best cure for my vapor lock problem when I noticed one of the wires to the fuel solenoid is broken off. By the looks of it it has been that way for a sometime. The bike runs fine, except when I have the vapor lock I posted about yesterday. What should I do about the wire. I guess the valve is in the open position or it would'nt run. Would it be possible for it to close unexpectedly? Should I disconnect it alltogether? A very common problem on pre 2002 bikes, which have the electric shut off/on switch. I had mine break under warranty in 2003. I should have pressed the dealer to retrofit the manual one fitted from 2002 on, but MG NA would only let them use the electric one. When they got it in, they let me build up the area where the wire ends and the switch body begins, an obvious weak area suceptable to brakage from vibration and wind swinging it around. I loaded it with dow corning silicone so it is stable. I'd still like to get the manual one if they are still available. The thought of eliminating another electrical related failure possibility, and getting rid of another wire out of the maze of friggin' wires from under there makes me think it's just a good idea. You mention that one of the wires is broken. I find this a surprise that your bike still runs, as the switch needs current to open, and I would have assumed that with a wire broken, the fuel petcock would not open to allow fuel into the fuel system. Steve
ALdad Posted May 20, 2008 Author Posted May 20, 2008 A very common problem on pre 2002 bikes, which have the electric shut off/on switch. I had mine break under warranty in 2003. I should have pressed the dealer to retrofit the manual one fitted from 2002 on, but MG NA would only let them use the electric one. When they got it in, they let me build up the area where the wire ends and the switch body begins, an obvious weak area suceptable to brakage from vibration and wind swinging it around. I loaded it with dow corning silicone so it is stable. I'd still like to get the manual one if they are still available. The thought of eliminating another electrical related failure possibility, and getting rid of another wire out of the maze of friggin' wires from under there makes me think it's just a good idea. You mention that one of the wires is broken. I find this a surprise that your bike still runs, as the switch needs current to open, and I would have assumed that with a wire broken, the fuel petcock would not open to allow fuel into the fuel system. Steve Ya Steve, I am wondering why it still goes, a good thing. My bike is a 2000. I would also think that when the line is off, gas would pour out. And it doesnt ?
raz Posted May 20, 2008 Posted May 20, 2008 Ya Steve, I am wondering why it still goes, a good thing. My bike is a 2000. I would also think that when the line is off, gas would pour out. And it doesnt ? It doesnt even leak when unpowered? This is so wierd. You wouldn't think the pump could suck the valve open. Maybe your bike will run much richer once you fix this
ALdad Posted May 20, 2008 Author Posted May 20, 2008 It doesnt even leak when unpowered? This is so wierd. You wouldn't think the pump could suck the valve open. Maybe your bike will run much richer once you fix this I don't know about when the bike is running. But when I remove the hose gas does not come out. Maybe there is enough vacumme in the tank to keep the gas in.?
raz Posted May 20, 2008 Posted May 20, 2008 I don't know about when the bike is running. But when I remove the hose gas does not come out. Maybe there is enough vacumme in the tank to keep the gas in.? No way. That you can easily rule out by opening the cap. A cleverly constructed solenoid could be designed to give in at a distinct under-pressure I guess. Or even a not so clever construction, but helped by coincidence Anyway I really think you should fix it.
Velf 2003 Posted May 21, 2008 Posted May 21, 2008 Hi all, I too suffered from this problem. It is true that the pump will suck open the fuel petcock even is it isn`t powered by a broken wire on a electric petcock. The sound the pump will give then isn`t the normal sound but higher, asmatic. The hotter the temperature of the air, and therefore the engine, the worse the engine will run and finally it will stall. Took some 45 minutes to let it cool down and start all over again to warm up when it would restart. I solved the problem by resoldering the broken wire back on. It now survived 30.000 km.... Good luck!! Velf2003
Greg Field Posted May 22, 2008 Posted May 22, 2008 The manual petcock is still available if anyone needs one.
Steve G. Posted May 23, 2008 Posted May 23, 2008 The manual petcock is still available if anyone needs one. I might zoom down to your shop on Saturday if the weather holds Greg. How much is that manual one? Steve
Greg Field Posted May 23, 2008 Posted May 23, 2008 I might zoom down to your shop on Saturday if the weather holds Greg. How much is that manual one? Steve Steve: We are closed on Saturday. Unfortunate for you, but not so for me (US Holiday). They're in the $38 range. Gord might have them. He's a hell of a good guy . . .
Steve G. Posted May 23, 2008 Posted May 23, 2008 Steve: We are closed on Saturday. Unfortunate for you, but not so for me (US Holiday). They're in the $38 range. Gord might have them. He's a hell of a good guy . . . Oh, sorry Greg. Have a happy Memmorial Day weekend! Gordy is a great guy. I'll check tommorow, now that I'm getting into this fuel supply bandwagon. BTW, are there any of those aftermarket center-stands left for the early frame bikes? Steve
adam211minn Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 Hi all, I too suffered from this problem. It is true that the pump will suck open the fuel petcock even is it isn`t powered by a broken wire on a electric petcock. The sound the pump will give then isn`t the normal sound but higher, asmatic. The hotter the temperature of the air, and therefore the engine, the worse the engine will run and finally it will stall. Took some 45 minutes to let it cool down and start all over again to warm up when it would restart. I solved the problem by resoldering the broken wire back on. It now survived 30.000 km.... Good luck!! Velf2003 I wish I would have found this sooner!! This is the exact problem I was experiencing for a whole summer. It seemed to happen mostly on hot days, so I suspected vapor lock. As soon as I let the engine cool for 30 - 40mins it would restart and run fine. But the hole time it was a broken wire on the fuel tap solenoid. The wire shielding was still slightly connected so it look as though it was fine, however inside the wires were broken. So I temporarily fixed it by removing the o-ring on the solenoid, which worked. However I was worried that it might still be limiting my fuel flow and if I needed to take the tank off it would run gas every where. So I needed a manual fuel tap, but I didn’t even consider going to my deal because they are pretty worthless and never have a clue what they are talking about. Instead I amazingly found this little hydraulic needle valve (dynamic fluid components, p/n DKLN125N*1/8NPT brass needle valve), that once unthreaded from its housing threads perfectly into the v11 fuel tap!!! I did however have to turn a little radius on the tip of the needle to hold the o-ring, I used a machinist lathe, but you could do the same thing with a dremil if you have steady hands. I also used a little tread sealant on the threads just to make sure it would not leak and all my problems are solved, no more vapor lock issues and I now have a manual fuel tap/ petcock.
Kiwi_Roy Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 Would it be possible for it to close unexpectedly? Should I disconnect it alltogether? No, don't dissconnect it, fix the wires back on and strap them to the valve body so they don't flex right at the joint or replace with a manual as others have. My 2001 still has the electric fuel cock, works fine for me. Roy
Marc Morrison Posted January 10, 2022 Posted January 10, 2022 To adam211minn.....I normally keep up with MG topics in WildGuzzi, but I was interested in your posting from several years ago concerning your fix for leaking petcocks. I know it's been a long time since you posted your fix, however, if you still post on this forum and you could provide me with a source for the Dynamic Fluid Component needle valve you used for this project (DKLN125b), it would be greatly appreciated. My electric fuel tap has given up and a manual unit I purchased from MGCycle 2 years ago has started leaking. Thx...Marc Morrison, Kerrville, TX 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now